Dries Van Noten F/W 2015.16 Paris

[daoudmac]

Dries Van Noten would be dressing the Babe Paleys and Slim Keith's of the world had we still had those impeccable women who had taste beyond measure and became iconic. A word I use often but there are some images, people and yes collections that are iconic. Dries never disappoints. His label and team always turn out an effortless chic and luxurious collection. Not implying they never miss the mark but in the scheme of blatant big name rip offs every season or the incestous homages each label gives the other year after year, Van Noten always hits the right chord of an old world splendor with a contemporary twist. There are pieces, the elbow opera glove that hark to Margiela, the v neck drop paired with them, but it's rare. The Paleys and Slims I mentioned earlier would still shop their Hermes but those fabulous swans would never touch what was once the mainstays like Chanel, Balenciaga, Yves St. Laurent or Dior. Ironically in an effort to reignite those once aesthetically great labels, where once they were amazing have now dug into their archives (Dior/Chanel) so deeply and rigidly or experimental fabrics designs or past inspirations (Vuitton/Balenciaga/Gucci) that they are stale and sadly in the case of Chanel are tiresome. This Dries collection really cemented that my love is warranted and he and his team are masters.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

too much in the last part

 

[nataliaapple]

Wasn't quite sure at first, some of the initial looks were too grandma but it started to peak and got better and better. Very nice collection.

 

[Moofins]

I really like this, but I always, always gravitate towards his fall collections. While I'm not as sold on the skirting in the final few looks, I am smitten with the colors and the prints. I just want to wrap myself in so many of the fabrics on parade here - just lovely.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

This collection is a triumphant fusion of colors, prints, and textures as only a savant like Dries could achieve. The genius of this collection is how the old world oriental prints were elegantly melded with contemporary design, not succumbing to becoming a caricature of eastern dress as it would have under a less refined hand.

Seamless culture amalgamation is not the only wonder of this collection, it is also a grand celebration of textures - furs, brocade, embroidery, heavy, and light textiles are all accounted for. This amount of layering and combinations could have easily come off as heavy handed but here it seems light, dapper, and vibrant.

This collection gets my vote for best of the season so far. A truly brilliant tribute to inventive design, craftsmanship, and cerebral fashion.

 

[gossiping]

one word: amazing!!! he is a genius

 

[YeohRocks]

Everything looks lush and expensive. I'd buy it all.

 

[Lola701]

I think Dries is one of those designers who doesn't have to challenge themselves anymore but i like the fact that he is still challenging our eyes.
And i like the fact that his shows are always very approachable but edgy at the same time.
I wish i was that adventurous when i'm wearing Dries because i think, more than the pieces (that are amazing), i think the styling is also a big part of his work.
I like the idea of an half full skirt that you can wrap on your daily look. It's like clothes as accessories and i will buy it for sure.

 

[Nymphaea]

For me it's a bit too busy as to the prints. I love his F/W menswear collection, would have liked something the same for the womenswear. I very much like the skirt/cape idea.

 

[anlabe32]

Gorgeous in a Lanvin-ish way.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Hmm...I don't know. I'm all for a distinct and deeply personal point of view from a designer, but I just feel like Dries' work the last couple of seasons now just looks and feels like autopilot. He needs to switch up something...a new stylist? A new runway location? A new casting director?

I mean - it's always gorgeous and sumptuous...but I just don't find it interesting anymore. This doesn't feel like a part of the here and now.

 

[ToniOrtega]

It's incredible how he can always find a way to match, mix, and highlight different printsnin his collection! This was superb! Elegant and refined but made a bit complex with the severity of the prints as well as the modernity of the silhouette!

 

[Littleathquakes]

I love this, he pulled off an incredible feat - taking us to China without turning it into a caricature. I saw no Mandarin collars, no hair that resembled the Qing dynasty headdresses, etc. A very tasteful appropriation of culture.

 

[ultramarine]

Is Dries infalible? How can he deliver amazing collections season after season when other equally or maybe even more brilliant designers collapsed against the pressure of the industry? Here we see easy, we see wearable and we see a bit of dream. Isnt this what makes great fashion? I loved the collection in its entirety. I especially liked the khaki+navy blue pairings, and of course, the prints. Impeccable.

 

[Inaya]

Love... this is everything I need right now

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i generally love dvn's collections, and this one is no exception. however, i didn't really like the spring collection. thus, i am super pleased to see that he's returned to form with this one, by using his eclectic amalgamation of sophisticated cuts, textures and colours. i love how he's interpreted the cargo looks here; he takes a "street" casual look and transforms it into the height of elegance.

 

[john2elmejor]

Amazing!

 

[softgrey]

exquisite~!

just when i think he's exhausted his design vocabulary, he's found a new way to express his classic motifs...

can we give a hand to the incredible styling here as well?!
...

j'adore~

 

[AnaD]

Oh my God this is everything! It sounds crazy but it's like what a modern version of Marlene Dietrich would wear on a trip to the Orient. It's beyond fab!

 

[MON]

The prints made everything too busy for me. It's unappealing and somehow the collection looked unflattering. It's not the worst collection I've seen but I somehow expected more