Gianfranco Ferré Mens F/W 09.10

[J'ador-DioR]

Tim Blanks was not really that keen on any of this.

Review from mens.style.com

January 18, 2009

The tidal wave of buzz that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are surfing at Ferré could turn into a curse in a flash. Maybe it just did. Their first men's collection for the label was weighted with a fashion-student self-consciousness that tipped the clothes into concept hell. Architecture and fabric research are major strands of the label's DNA, and Aquilano and Rimondi at least honored the past in those respects. Resolutely broad shoulders created a strong silhouette, and fabrics blended the classic and the futuristic. "We had to take it into the future," said Aquilano, a slightly resigned note in his voice.

But it wasn't actually so much the future as a decadent past that seeped off the catwalk. Although Aquilano insisted their references were sixties shading into seventies, their clothes evoked a sort of Weimar sci-fi. The palette was an expressionist black, white, and silver. The lean, half-belted, peak-shouldered coats slung low over skinny trousers felt like something out of Fritz Lang (and pardon me for imagining Ming the Merciless bossing around minions). The show's other major look featured knits with gigantic mufflers swathing models' heads. Gigantism was always Gianfranco's flaw. Perhaps this was one strand of the designer's DNA that his heirs could have laid aside.
— Tim Blanks

 

[J'ador-DioR]

mens.style.com

 

[J'ador-DioR]

mens.style.com

 

[gr77]

It's gorgeous.I think it's my favourite so far

 

[J'ador-DioR]

mens.style.com

 

[J'ador-DioR]

mens.style.com

 

[cavanaugh]

great, this is what burberry prorsum should have been

 

[Street_a_Licious]

i nominate this as one of the best shows/collections of F/W 09!

 

[fcummi01]

not blown away, but love the lines. very clean.

 

[wasabecandy]

i love every single piece....

 

[kasmslo]

Agh, I can't believe I missed this earlier.
Just so lovely, I could just die...