Gianfranco Ferré S/S 2014 Milan

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

feels heavy so far

 

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Bernadette]

Photos courtesy of style.com

 

[Phuel]

Thanks Bernadette for posting!

THe very very poor-man's Haider Ackermann continues to mock the Ferre legacy...

And to think, Gianfranco Ferre the man was a stellar, and strongly individualist with a great style for women has his house reduced to being a copycat. What's with leading designers' names being reduced to lesser brands by hiring these mediocre dressmakers? First, Helmut Lang, and now Ferre. Oh boy.

 

[christian zh]

I'm the only one who misses Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi at Ferre?

 

[anlabe32]

^ no I miss them too.

These are definitely gorgeous but more of the same.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Thanks Bernadette for posting!

THe very very poor-man's Haider Ackermann continues to mock the Ferre legacy...

And to think, Gianfranco Ferre the man was a stellar, and strongly individualist with a great style for women has his house reduced to being a copycat. What's with leading designers' names being reduced to lesser brands by hiring these mediocre dressmakers? First, Helmut Lang, and now Ferre. Oh boy.

I used to think as you did until I realized that it's actually Haider who is the poor man's Ferre. All the "Haider" we see here is actually Ferre. Haider's been copying Ferre for years and no one seems to really notice. These two new guys are only honoring the house's legacy. And frankly, this collection is not bad at all.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I'm the only one who misses Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi at Ferre?

No, I absolutely loved their earlier collections at Ferre, but really dislike their own label creations.

This collection is pretty, the drape is beautiful, but it's very blank - what Aquilano and Rimondi gave was incredibly textured and structured, the fabrics were a work of art by themselves. The fabrics here, along with the very stark runway just leave me feeling nothing.
I can see the comparison with Haider Ackermann, but only in the loose drapery - his collections are full of satins and brocades and leathers in beautifully considered shades, this is monochrome and lacking in depths to stimulate.

 

[Bernadette]

Thanks Bernadette for posting!

You're welcome. Thanks for commenting.

September 23, 2013 Milan
By Nicole Phelps

Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron said their starting point for the new Gianfranco Ferré collection was Herb Ritts' photographs of classic Ferré looks and indelible images of Gia Carangi, the tragic supermodel of the late seventies and early eighties whom Angelina Jolie famously played in an HBO film. Gia, the stories go, was deliriously sexy, and as befits their muse, this show today did have a sultry edge. Draped dresses, blouses, and jackets gave the impression that they'd slip right off with one quick tug of the giant leather obi belts that cinched them. Skirts also flashed skin; one slit was so high it required shorts underneath.

Asymmetric flourishes were a key element in the Ferré oeuvre, but where the late designer often chose stiff architectural fabrics, Piaggi and Citron were more inclined to use fluid ones, like hammered silk, enver satin, and the electric blue Lurex-shot jersey of the show-closing jumpsuit. Nearly everything glistened, which lent the collection a glitz that didn't let up. This was a satisfying collection in many ways, but you couldn't help but feel that Piaggi and Citron's work would connect with a bigger crowd—which remains an issue for this Italian label—if they eased off the shine now and then and turned their mind more to clothes made for every day.

Source: style.com

 

[Phuel]

I used to think as you did until I realized that it's actually Haider who is the poor man's Ferre. All the "Haider" we see here is actually Ferre. Haider's been copying Ferre for years and no one seems to really notice. These two new guys are only honoring the house's legacy. And frankly, this collection is not bad at all.

Interesting, Mutterlein...

I admit I do see the architectural element which Gianfranco's most renowned for in Haider's signature. But, to call him a poor-man's Ferre is too unfair for me. I see more of Romeo Gigli in Haider's mixture of a modern and sensual romanticism in any case-- but made completely his own. Much like Rick Owens is so obviously influenced by Helmut Lang-- but his is Helmut Lang's vision of severity unrestrained and on steroids; so he's taken Helmut's construction to his own other level-- and makes it work, even if I may not like it personally. I can appreciate that in designers.

These two however, would be copying Haider's version of Gianfranco's style at best if they're really honoring Gianfranco--which according to the review, they are... And Herb Ritts and Gia... I just don't see it.

 

[Laces]

Milan saved the best for last. Besides Ferragamo this is my favourite MFW collection.

 

[MetroMelannie]

I haven't seen any press release about this butdid they stop showing ?