from suzy menkes...iht...
The Italian designer's decision to show his first high fashion collection in Paris on Monday has saved a critical situation. With Ungaro's haute couture shuttered, Givenchy's in suspension while searching for a new designer and Christian Lacroix's company on the block, couture seemed doomed.
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But Giorgio Armani Prive, as he called his collection of glamorous and graceful evening gowns, is a genuine attempt to join this private and ever-shrinking club. "I want to revive a spirit of supreme elegance that we have lost," Armani said as he worked in his Milan atelier last week with the 15 seamstresses sewing jet beads on black lace and appliques of flowers on organza.
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There is nothing makeshift about the studio Armani put together, taking workers from the much-reduced Versace atelier (although he had to teach them to "adapt their spirit"). Others include long-term collaborators and a Roman couturier known as Lorenzo who helped with the delicate task of mounting sheer organza on satin ribbons.
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Why has Armani decided to enter couture when other salons are slamming the doors?
Armani decided to do couture because of his frustration with constantly finding expensive ready-to-wear gowns left in the stores, as potential customers could not find their size or preferred adjustments.
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"The problem with couture recently is that it has been confused with deluxe ready-to-wear, and that it has been shown for drama, not to sell," Armani said. "I believe there are very wealthy women who want made-to-order dresses with a sleeve changed here and a neckline there." To capture them, Armani has worked out the math: If he subsidizes dresses that cost ?120,000 to make by selling them for half that price, he will build up a big enough client base to justify the investment , and ultimately to bring in the bucks. A limited edition of two of each dress will be made (one for Europe and one for the United States).
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"I want to do day-wear and tailoring, but that will be for the next season in July," Armani says, suggesting that this couture fresher is here to stay.
