Givenchy Resort 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[perhydrol]

This collection is as tragic and offensive as the whole tenure of Williams. The house finally has a direction, but it feels wrong on so many levels. It's obvious that Williams wanted to do something Tisci-lite, but the result is unbelievably ugly and grimy. Even the execution of Riccardo's original ideas didn't hit the mark. The FW12 boots are the perfect example, the chosen leather is too soft for the design, so the boots are not as graphic and luxurious as the original ones. I refuse to comment on the artistic collaboration, because it doesn't bring anything to the table and I'm pretty sure the house won't get any hype for that. Actually, it seems that Givenchy still haven't got the hype they want to achieve and I don't think it will ever happen. Not with this kind of clothes and accessories, because the 4G bag Givenchy have been trying to push is a total non-event that could have been designed by anyone.

Once again, I don't think Matthew Williams will be there for longer than 3 years and he shouldn't have let Lotta Volkova go, because his new stylist has been doing a massive disservice. What's more, we can see the LVMH's response to Gucci x Balenciaga here with the Rimowa suitcases.

Long story short, this collection is a multidimensional trainwreck.

 

[Marc10]

Yeah this one is indefensible. It's almost veering into Phillip Plein and D&G level of tacky. The menswear is particularly horrendous and cartoonish, a completely out touch idea of what "street" and "cool" clothes are supposed to look like. Which is kinda shocking to me because his stuff for Alyx, while not amazing, is way better than this - or at least more contemporary looking and appealing, and actually more luxurious!

I don't know what he's doing here.

 

[dior_couture1245]

This is...probably one of the worst collections ever made by mankind.

 

[bennyboy]

Well, I do love this collection... from his frist one --- now to this, I think I've got his message...

 

[susseinmcswanny]

This makes me feel like the apocalypse is for real on its way

 

[THD96]

Well, at least he picked the right location for this collection. A tragic trainwreck.

All I can see is Alexander Wang mix Yeezy and Ricardo Tisci. The prints are hideous. This collaboration is just pointless. And the tailoring is so stiff and badly constructed especially on those 2 leather suits. If you can't do proper tailoring just tell the atelier to redo the pieces of Riccardo or Clare.

The stylis was paid by Kering to sabotage the collection. So many unnecessary layering and the push of gimmicky accessories on almost every single looks just scream desperate.

Who is this collection for? "Edgy" e-boys & e-girls.

 

[Olaffo]

As much as I agree with all my predecessors opinions (you've all almost exhausted my thoughts and I am very happy for that!) I will follow up by stating that it is precisely the LVMH business strategy. We have Kim at Dior, we have Virgil at Vuitton, we have Matthew at Givenchy. Their collections look pretty much the same with distinction related to "house codes" which is in fact grotesque bullsh*t because it is enough to compare one element across all three houses to see that it's copy paste strategy. For example, men bags from Dior and Givenchy to see they're pretty much the same. At this point MW is copying KJ's most commercial ideas (bags shape, styling, Rimowa collab etc.), Tisci's style in the most vulgar way and his cheap attitude towards street style and fashion as such. This collection is lazy to the extent it should be punishable, nevertheless I feel his tenure will be much longer we all expect. These things are selling and that is sad. CWK's clothes were interesting but did not bring money...On a different note I am curious what he will do with Couture but it is more to count my inner "couturesque" casualties rather than hoping for anything tolerable.

+ he really loves doggy style looking at this fugly prints...

 

[perhydrol]

^I don't think he'll ever touch couture. Givenchy is not on the schedule again and of course Matthew is not skilled enough to design anything couture-related.

 

[jeanclaude]

Graffiti prints as modern?? "Graffivenchy"?? No thank you!!

 

[YohjiAddict]

The models look like the vagabonds or the graffiti delinquents that dwell near those train tracks, just sad to look at. He just has that weird talent for making invisible clothes, I can scroll 5 times through his collections and there's not one thing that catches my eye.

Does he have a puppy fetish or something? This collection is nasty enough without those ears...The leather suiting is just...only a Playmobile figure could wear that!

 

[Olaffo]

^I don't think he'll ever touch couture. Givenchy is not on the schedule again and of course Matthew is not skilled enough to design anything couture-related.

I didn't see the updated calendar...well, definitely for the best, Kim's Fendi will be enough of nightmare.

 

[Salvatore]

The first word that came to my mind to describe this collection was « grotesque » and I cannot think of any other word but that to describe it.

 

[Frederic01]

Unfortunately Matthew Williams has an innate lack of taste and refinement, and this collection, just like all his others, is proof of that. With Riccardo Tisci, the "sportswear" and "grunge" elements always felt chic in his hands. Williams on the other hand makes everything look incredibly cheap and vulgar. He is not capable in womenswear that is for sure.

What LVMH needs to do with Givenchy, and what they should have done already after Tisci left, is separate the womenswear and menswear visions just like Dior in terms of creative direction. Clare should have continued with womenswear and Haute Couture, and Williams should have focused on the menswear. Givenchy could have succeeded massively this way.

Also, I have heard that his Givenchy is selling even worse than Clare's, as the womenswear base has almost completely evaporated since her departure. Whilst Clare wasn't the most visionary of designers, she still understood the spirit of the Maison and made beautiful, timeless clothing that resonated with a reliable customer base. Their wedding dress market was huge and the Couture operations were growing steadily once again after a restructuring in the operations, team, etc.

They are not going to restart the Haute Couture anytime soon, as when Matthew came on board, most of the Couture team left. They are down to a very "bare-bones" team and I am afraid Williams is going to drive them down to the ground...

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Thought i didnt like it because i was too lazy to click on the picture and view a larger image but the comments sum it up, Looks like a wannabe Tisci era collection whoich no longer feels current

 

[Lola701]

I think the only thing good about his work is the jewelry.
Seriously, it’s so sad to see Givenchy now. It took how many years for Riccardo to make Givenchy a name that matters again. In less than 3 years, everything is gone.

Now it’s like they have to rebuild everything. It’s beyond sad.

The down jackets are the only good thing about it…And they are hardly impressive.

Stefano Pilati could have been perfect for the job but they should give Givenchy to Kris Van Assche or Lucas Ossendrijver for the menswear and give the womenswear to either, somebody from Riccardo’s old team or call me crazy, Natacha Ramsey Levi.

I don’t want to throw Haider’s name again but he can everything IMO.

 

[Boeroe Sanka PhiloFashion]

this "Kamikaze rock& roll suicide" collection is less tragic than what I was expecting. Guys, you need to have more sex in your lives to diminish the negativity you keep spitting all around.
These are bad times and the point, to make honest observations is: is this modern= in syntony with these times?
Yes, it is! Just admit it...

 

[FelipeV]

Lindsay Lohan for Ungaro was 3 times better than this. I can totally see tiktokers wearing this while playing the "I'm from da' hood" character. Hedi Slimane for Celine is way more inventive. This makes looks Denma like a genious. Mr. Williams, you are a disgrace.

 

[perhydrol]

Stefano Pilati could have been perfect for the job but they should give Givenchy to Kris Van Assche or Lucas Ossendrijver for the menswear and give the womenswear to either, somebody from Riccardo’s old team or call me crazy, Natacha Ramsey Levi.

I don’t want to throw Haider’s name again but he can everything IMO.

Actually LVMH almost went for Natacha Ramsay-Levi's aesthetic so I wouldn't say that it's a crazy idea. I can remember Julien Dossena's name circulating here and there before the official appointment of Matthew Willimams. And both Julien and Natacha share the same visual language, we all know why.

There's one good thing that comes from the tenure of Williams. It clearly shows that the next designer shouldn't be chosen just because they can rip-off Tisci's archives. Givenchy need a much stronger aesthetic than this watered down attempt. Otherwise, they will not become relevant again.