Daily Mail
AMAZING GRACE; Less is more: Grace's timeless elegance is being mirrored on the catwalk by Dior (right), Diane von Furstenberg (below far left) and Viktor &Rolf (below).
Article from: The Daily Mail (London, England) Article date: August 13, 2007 More results for: grace kelly
Byline: LIZ JONES
THERE is a moment in cinema that sums up what it is to be chic,beautiful, immaculately dressed and unbelievably sexy. It is when Grace Kellyannounces to a stunned Jimmy Stewart, in 1954's Rear Window, that she is aboutto spend the night in his apartment.
She unlocks her tiny case and a sheer negligee spills out, along with a pair ofslippers.
In the film, Kelly plays a fashion model who proudly declares she 'never wearsthe same dress twice', and her wardrobe for that film was, indeed, a lesson inelegance: the pale green suit with unfitted jacket, white halter-neck blouse,belt, hat with veil and gloves: perfect career woman attire.
Or how about 1955's To Catch A Thief, in which she rendered Capri pants,headscarves, sunglasses and extravagant jewellery fresh and new.
Or Dial M For Murder, in which her entire wardrobe, bought off the peg bar onered lace dress, gets progressively darker and more fitted as the plot thickens.
The 1950s might seem a distant decade to look to for fashion influences,especially as today's young women have neither pointy breasts nor wasp waists.But it is that decade, along with the 'Grace Kelly Look'as it was dubbed triumphantly by style bible Women's Wear Daily in 1955,applauding the Oscar-winning actress' 'fresh type of natural glamour'that is about to enjoy a renaissance.
Come this autumn/winter, exactly 25 years after Princess Grace's prematuredeath in a car crash at the age of 52, that look is well and truly back infashion.
Born in 1929, Grace Kelly was already rich before she became a film star,thanks to an endowment bestowed on her by her father, Jack, a Philadelphianbusinessman.
Grace wasn't a debutante, despite what early press releases would have had usbelieve, but she exuded intelligence and class from every pore.
It was her mother, Margaret, a teacher, who gave her daughter not only herdrive and discipline, but also a lithe ballerina's figure and a love ofclothes, especially hats always, always hats and white cotton gloves.
Don't believe me that the icecool Grace Kelly style is remotely relevant orwearable this autumn? Well, she was the first to wear casual sportswearsimple white shirts, stone Capri pants, flat loafers, shirtdresses, safariwear, jeans, headscarves and turbansand make them all instantly and effortlessly glamourous.
She understood that to wear casual well, she had to have understated make-up,squeaky-clean, shiny hair and be impeccably groomed.
She also made the soft, tailored tweed skirt-suitseen everywhere on the catwalk this autumn, from John Rocha to Jil Sanderboth sexy and modern. She washow can I put it?the ultimate in antibling; even her beloved simple pearls, which she alwayswore, are desirable again.
The main lesson we can all learn from Grace Kelly, herself a former fashionmodel, is how to look ladylike: I can no more imagine her in skinny jeans,wedges and a sequinned floaty top than I can picture her To Catch A Thiefco-star Cary Grant in trainers and a hoodie.
After what seems like years of the designers insisting we all dress likechildren in trapezeshaped shifts, miniskirts and smocks, grown-up tailoring(welcome sigh of relief) is about to make a comeback. Skirts are below theknee, waists nipped in, shoulders broad and everything is discreet, covered up,classy.
Unlike her blonde bombshell contemporaries (Monroe, Bardot and their ilk),Kelly wasn't overtly sexual (in fact, when she was working as a model, onephotographer complained she had 'no oomph, no cheesecake').
No, she was a fresh-faced girl next door, refusing calls from studios who urgedher to enhance her bosom. A clever cover line on Time magazine read 'Gentlemenprefer ladies', while fashion historian Colin McDowell observed: 'Her peerlessbeauty was more calculated to repel the rude advance than succumb to it.' Andthis autumn, looking classy and womanly rather than gamine and pre-pubescent isthe order of the day.
Grace Kelly also invented the current mania for expensive accessories. She wasintroduced to Hermes by her friend, the Oscar-winning costume designer EdithHead, while shopping in Paris for the wardrobe for To Catch A Thief. She boughtso much in the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore store that she ran out of money,prompting Miss Head to announce: 'Gloves and shoes are the only things whereGrace loses count of money.' She was also the first to adopt the monsterhandbagshe carried a giant tote on her honeymoon and days later thousands of copieswere being made.
As observed by Bronwyn Cosgrave in Made For Each Other, her in-depth history offashion at the Oscars: 'At Hermes, Kelly peeled off her trademark white clothgloves, slipped in and out of the butter-soft suede models and hand-embroideredleathers offered up to her on a silver tray, and became hooked on the label.'The Hermes saddlebag she carried to conceal her pregnancy bump was named afterher and today the Kelly bag still has the longest waiting list in the world,despite prices starting from around [pounds sterling]5,000.
Grace Kelly was also discreet, perhaps because of her shyness.
She hated talking about her private life, refusing to give reporters her vitalstatistics. We know from her modelling days she was 5ft 612in and wore anAmerican size 10, which was then the smallest size that could be bought off therails. It is a shame the current It girls in Hollywoodthe Lindsay Lohans and Mischa Bartons of this world haven't followed suit.
The only star I can think of today who comes close to the Kelly mantra isGwyneth Paltrow, closely followed by Scarlett Johansson, who was recentlystyled for the Louis Vuitton advertising campaign as a latter-day Grace Kelly,complete with an immaculate honey-hued chignon.
And although Grace Kelly was a patron of Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga,Chanel, Madame Gres and Yves Saint Laurent, she was famously loyal to theclothes she bought and reluctant to throw them away, only purchasing newoutfits on a modest scale.
Grace 'couldn't drop something just because it went out of fashion; she wasvery sentimental about her clothes,' recalled actress Rita Gam, a lifelongfriend.
This autumn, more and more women are moving away from the 'wear it and chuckit' mentality of cheap clothing, and instead buying what they love and whatsuits them what is ageless, well-made and flattering.
Grace Kelly ended her movie career prematurely when she married Prince Rainierof Monaco on April 19, 1956. HER IVORY wedding dress was made by anotherOscarwinning Hollywood costumier, Helen Rose of MGM, and was made up of 300yards of antique Brussels rose-point lace, 25 yards of heavy taffeta, 100 yardsof silk net, 25 yards of silk taffeta, with a 3ft train and tulle veil, allstudded with pearls. It is now on display in the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
I love that for her honeymoon, she took seven evening gowns, six cocktaildresses, 16 'day costumes' and numerous suits, coats and furs, and hundreds ofhats, bags and pairs of shoes, all of which she had packed herself, plus herblack poodle, Oliver.
I also love that the white organdie hat she wore on arrival in Monaco, whichresembled a giant mushroom, was universally panned in the Press because it hidher perfect, symmetrical face and threatened to take wing across the water.
It is somehow reassuring to know that the Press has always liked to pick apartthe attire of celebrities, no matter how elevated they become.
Grace Kelly fell out of fashion favour in the 1960s, being far too prim andconventional in her role as royal wife and mother (although she later fell inlove with the brightly-coloured clothes by Emilio Pucci, and was known to wearthe odd kaftan), but she continued to look effortlessly understated in a wayour Royal Family, even Princess Diana, never quite managed.
It is a shame we never got to see her grow old. As the fashion designer KarlLagerfeld said: 'I am sure [if she were alive today], even at nearly 80, shewould be stunning.' She would indeed.