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Axel’s Rose
Scenes from the opening of Hermès’s new Nashville store, where the ill-timed retirement announcement of its longtime menswear head only underscored the steady hand of the brand’s sixth-generation heir and executive chairman, Axel Dumas.
Elsewhere at the store, clients were mixing with Dumas and other Hermès executives, as well as the starry locals that make up the Nashville expat scene. Photo: Chelsea Lauren/WWD/Penske Media/Getty Images
October 20, 2025
About an hour before Hermès welcomed guests to its new store in Nashville, news broke in Paris that the brand’s menswear designer of 37 years,
Véronique Nichanian, was retiring. I’m sure the comms team wished that
Le Figaro, with whom Nichanian spoke exclusively, would have waited a few hours to publish, but there were very few people in Nashville who realized anything had happened. At the event, I nudged
Axel Dumas, the brand’s sixth-generation heir and executive chairman, about the news while standing near the glassed-off handbag wall—each style, from a canvas Togo to a crocodile Kelly, shaded in with the proprietary color Rouge H. He politely changed the subject.
At pretty much any other luxury house, the exit of the designer would be an earthquake.
But Hermès has undoubtedly been succession planning for two or three years: When the company moved its headquarters a few years back, Nichanian’s team stayed in the old offices—a clear indication that she wanted to keep her routine for her last few years working. At 71, she could have surely gone longer. Her collections are still closely watched by menswear insiders, and Hermès is already a model for other luxury houses: The big idea doesn’t come from one designer’s vision, so there’s no need to engage in rapid turnover and succumb to key-person risk issues. In the end, she held her post for 37 years, one more than
Lagerfeld spent at Chanel.
Hermès is expected to announce her successor on Tuesday. The first candidate to pop into my texts was
Grace Wales Bonner, the 35-year-old Brit whose name surfaces any time there’s a big menswear job up for grabs. It’s an interesting idea, given her quiet confidence and design sensibility.
But I also wouldn’t be surprised if it were an unknown in the vein of the company’s womenswear designer,
Nadège Vanhee, who worked behind the scenes for years before replacing
Christophe Lemaire in 2014. Vanhee was a designer for hire—no namesake label to manage, or wind down—who was given the time and space to develop her practice because of Hermès’s reliance on hero products, historic brand codes, and managed pricing.
The collections are a commercial and editorial success, and like Nichanian, Vanhee may be headed toward a 30-plus-year career at the company.