gallianostan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2021
- Messages
- 1,147
- Reaction score
- 3,746
may this signal the death of ANCORA
This is quite hard to comment on every time. After Alessandro and his extremely strong and precise aesthetic, the biggest problem in viewing is that while it is quite boring, it is also not hard to understand why it looks this way, because the brand needed a palate cleanser, basically smell of coffee after a strong, complex perfume. Considering this, I think he is doing quite a good job - it is stylish and desirable, but does not stand out and has almost no identity. One of the issues is also how youthful the brand suddenly became. Gucci is indeed one of the "old money" brands with huge history of serving the elite and the royalty, and one cannot just erase that and make the brand cool and flood it with youngsters. Michele made it fresh and 'cool', yet he always carefully included more mature and classic models into his shows and campaigns.
The casting of new models is cute, but it has no identity to it. When the godforsaken Demna came, his casting had laser precision. Here it is... inclusive and young, but what else?
I do not agree that it is dreadful and a disaster (that would apply to Collina Strada and etc., probably), just boring. The huge houses can be boring at most, because if it is not good, it is just safe. He would probably just be Facchinetti of today's Gucci, but with more stakes on financial profit.
I think Kering has top-level management issues since quite some time. They are making a lot of strange decisions. Letting Michele go after a little decrease in interest was one, yet Demna is still here, but Balenciaga has lost a lot of prestige and he has way less range. Bottega had Lee, who was also troublesome, but great. McQueen was the logical choice since Sarah was also very close to McQueen himself, and Michele had worked a very long time for Gucci before as well. Now they seem to be stuck with a parade of either troublesome creatives or nondescript ones like here.You know it's quite alarming when the most exciting designer in your group right now is Anthony Vaccarello. It's not a good look Kering.
I think the chunky knitwear was good. There were 2 long coats (one camel, one navy blue) that were beautiful but my favorite look is the buttery light yellow leather coat worn with a matching miniskirt, a green sweater and those patent orange platforms loafers!
It’s quite interesting to see this after Tom Ford. This has the modernity that I miss from Tom Ford. I don’t want stuff to look like it’s from 2006…
Ultimately, it’s a better effort than ANCORA but I find it even less desirable. The cut is anonymous, the embossed GG on clothes is still tacky. It’s clothes but it lacks in conviction.
And I hate how his narrative is about clothes. Michele in his early days did very commercial clothes. Gucci did not experienced that boom because of the costumes he put out in the end (quite the contrary). I hate that he is giving excuse for the mediocrity.
I think Tod’s did the « Basic de Luxe » better than Gucci. And those GG are uninspired and tacky.
After the menswear I had hope. Let’s see how it continues.
I was almost sad to not hear ANCORA during the finale lol
It’s personal…I have an personal issue with monogram on clothes.I disagree about the GG prints. I always found that print to be super tacky, but the way it was embossed in a smaller scale on the leather is super subtle and almost doesn’t read as a monogram, but rather a pattern. I think that was a very successful modernized use of the monogram to create a subtler effect and it was done really well.
No, please!Frida, pls comeback girl !!!