Very interesting point of view Lola.
Maybe they wanted with Sabato to go more for luxury and because they failed miserably they are now forced to go back to fashion.
Luxury is boring because it tends to be timeless; fashion is risky because it needs to surprise.
A balance between the two is rarely given (Karl at Chanel).
Most houses fall in one field or the other, with the inherent pros and cons.
People buy Vuitton for the status. It’s a status symbol. People buy Hermes for the status. People buy Chanel for the status. The brands are so solidified, their products have proven an enduring longevity either in terms of design, style or status than a good collection or a good creative direction is just the icing on a cake.
I know a lot of people who hates logos but who have Vuitton monogram luggage. It’s timeless, it’s still a status symbol and it’s a durable product.
For some reason, people find the GG from Gucci tacky. But as we saw it during the Alessandro Michele years, because Gucci was driving the fashion conversation, it became hot again.
For me, they have to rethink and redesign their entire line.
What Ancora did wasn’t all bad. What he did with the B bag for example in it monogram version wasn’t bad: just the monogram, silver. Hardware, brown leather.
Does a Gucci monogram bag needs the gg, the web stripes and the obnoxious double G buckle?
And it’s really important because those are the entry priced items. The products that seats in stores forever. So if you loose desirability on your timeless products, it’s very hard to build on that.
We hear and some of us know people who collects Chanel bags, Hermes bags, Balenciaga Moto bags, Fendi bags, Vuitton bags. In all the circles of women I’m around, I have never heard of someone collecting YSL and Gucci bags!
I even know someone who collected Alexander McQueen clutches!
It’s a difficult balance as you said but it’s both a creative and executive effort.
Kim Jones terrible collections didn’t hurt Fendi so much because nobody can touch their bags in Italy. And Fendi, does well, very well with leather, much better than with the monogram.