Haider Ackermann - Designer, Creative Director of Canada Goose & Tom Ford

[Thefrenchy]

Not a very smart choice of look for a preview... I'm sure it looked better in person, but it photographs like a boring black suit covered in dandruff... The trousers look dodgy too...

 

[Melancholybaby]

You think so? To me, it looks like a Tom Ford suit with a different lapel and a less accentuated waist.

Tom Ford is usually very slick and this doesn’t look « slick though ».

But in a way, this kind of respond to what I was guessing the future of Tom Ford menswear may be. The existing silhouettes will not change and Haider’s suits will be just another added silhouette into the mix. I expect a more drastic change in womenswear though.

The silk scarf feels very Haider to me.

The rest of the suit is ok but a bit unremarkable and the trousers look off indeed.

 

[Kanzai]

As much as i like Haider, the Giorgio Armani black velvet three piece suit on Daniel Craig is the winner ( men's side ). The scarf styling didn't help it

 

[PDFSD]

This look does not convince me. I hate the trousers' fit.

typical Haider pirate pants move ...i said it before this guy can't move away from the drapey layer nomad pirate look lol

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I don't dislike Chalamet nor Haider (assuming it is him), but something here is not working. I am not wowed like I want to be.

I also want to be wowed and I decided I will be, when Haider shows his first Tom Ford collection.
For the moment, let me say that the bottom of the trousers could be bettered, and although I like the blue touch, to me it is a little forced how that scarf is wrapped.

But I believe in Haider.

 

[HigthaVandah]

It looks like Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane?

the bottom of the trousers could be bettered

Both of those things shouldn't be true at once, but here we are.

But I believe in Haider.

Me too. Looking forward to seeing a full collection from his TF.

 

[HigthaVandah]

I've reconsidered. It's more Celine than Dior Homme. Could be some interesting competition down the road if Hedi starts designing again soon...

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I might be wrong but I don't feel Hedi being appointed to a big fashion house anytime soon...

One thing I like a lot about him is: you cannot count on him to play musical chairs.

Either you approach him with a project interesting enough for him, in his own terms and with his own conditions, or you can forget about him.
He is not jumping directionless from one house to another, à la Raf or à la Kim Jones.

 

[HigthaVandah]

I agree with your 2nd and 3rd paragraphs, but I just can't see Hedi going quietly into that good night. Not after the magnitude of what he created image-wise at Celine, nevermind his significant growth as a womenswear designer. Plus, skinny tie bands are coming back in the U.S. The market here has had a break from Hedi and is ripe for his return. He's just gonna drop the mic chandelier and wander off to chase twinks with his camera for the next five years? I don't buy it. He's not posing for photos at industry awards ceremonies in LA just to socialize. Something is in the works

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I agree with your 2nd and 3rd paragraphs, but I just can't see Hedi going quietly into that good night. Not after the magnitude of what he created image-wise at Celine, nevermind his significant growth as a womenswear designer. Plus, skinny tie bands are coming back in the U.S. The market here has had a break from Hedi and is ripe for his return. He's just gonna drop the mic chandelier and wander off to chase twinks with his camera for the next five years? I don't buy it. He's not posing for photos at industry awards ceremonies in LA just to socialize. Something is in the works

Please read the following ONLY if you are interested in a rumour from circa 2016 never confirmed whatsoever, but here I go:

someone told me that one of the reasons behind the Hedi-Kering split up was that his Saint Laurent was doing so well that it was about to become the first house of the group, surpassing Gucci, and Kering didn't want that.
Now, beyond the accuracy of this (I doubt that a group would intentionally frein the growth of a brand only because of strategycal positioning), the fact that such rumour was circulating in Paris gives an idea of how big turned Saint Laurent under Hedi.

And he waited almost three years till he made his Celine debut, way beyond the non compete.

Sorry for the "someone told me...", I know it is low quality posting 😅

Hedi will come back if he is one hundred percent convinced, not to fill one of the available positions remaining.

P.S. Fashion is more fun with Hedi than without Hedi.

 

[Lola701]

Please read the following ONLY if you are interested in a rumour from circa 2016 never confirmed whatsoever, but here I go:

someone told me that one of the reasons behind the Hedi-Kering split up was that his Saint Laurent was doing so well that it was about to become the first house of the group, surpassing Gucci, and Kering didn't want that.
Now, beyond the accuracy of this (I doubt that a group would intentionally frein the growth of a brand only because of strategycal positioning), the fact that such rumour was circulating in Paris gives an idea of how big turned Saint Laurent under Hedi.

And he waited almost three years till he made his Celine debut, way beyond the non compete.

Sorry for the "someone told me...", I know it is low quality posting 😅

Hedi will come back if he is one hundred percent convinced, not to fill one of the available positions remaining.

P.S. Fashion is more fun with Hedi than without Hedi.

Mouais.
He wasn’t getting along with management and was frustrated in the limits he had regarding YSL as a brand, particularly the beauty entity.
It wasn’t about YSL becoming bigger than Gucci because it simply wasn’t the case.

I agree with your 2nd and 3rd paragraphs, but I just can't see Hedi going quietly into that good night. Not after the magnitude of what he created image-wise at Celine, nevermind his significant growth as a womenswear designer. Plus, skinny tie bands are coming back in the U.S. The market here has had a break from Hedi and is ripe for his return. He's just gonna drop the mic chandelier and wander off to chase twinks with his camera for the next five years? I don't buy it. He's not posing for photos at industry awards ceremonies in LA just to socialize. Something is in the works

I don’t think both cases are related. If one thing looking at public appearances of Hedi, they have always been at LA events. He goes to the Grammys, to the Oscars and things like that because that’s essentially his crowd.

His social life might be more interesting in LA than in Paris anyway.

I don’t think fashion is that much of a passion for Hedi if it’s not part of a bigger thing whereas photography is something else.

I think Hedi is totally the type of designer to retire from fashion without any fanfare, because he has another outlet to express himself. I mean, we saw it with Tom Ford. Now that he is a director, his last collection was basically an edit of archives, much different from the fanfare of his first retirement from fashion.

I don’t think Hedi has that much to offer in fashion design but I want to see books, exhibitions, magazines, music videos.

 

[Xone]

Sorry for the "someone told me...", I know it is low quality posting 😅

Don’t feel sorry…it’s monday…sounds like a GG blast and it’s always fun to read…

Seriously speaking, i also doubt that but these execs and their fragile egos are so hard to decode sometimes…

 

[tricotineacetat]

I don’t think Hedi has that much to offer in fashion design but I want to see books, exhibitions, magazines, music videos.

By looking at the plurality of different propositions in fashion, don‘t you think something would be missing if Hedi was to retire that noone else does, much in the way of other greats who have left fashion for good? People like Helmut Lang or Jil Sander (I keep coming back to these two all the time)?

There are people following the work of certain designers (and less fashion as a whole) because they like a proposal of dressing that essentially remains consistent for decades. It‘s the reason why you can pull out archival Helmut from the 90ies or early Dior Homme from Hedi and still look great in it.

The fashion landscape today is full of brands who are producing seasonal fashion with the intention that it‘s very recognizable as something from 2021, 23 or 25. That might feel appealing to the kind of customer who isn‘t too much attached to a specific style they developed or found for themselves, who probably also have less brand loyalty. We can probably agree that Jil Sander or Maison Margiela have very little to do of the houses they once were, so even if other brands keep producing Hedi Slimane-inspired clothes, it’s not the same.

I haven‘t really bought anything from Celine other than a pair of pants but I like the fact that I could still buy a certain kind of tailored coat or boot to replace something else I may have bought before from either Dior or Saint Laurent - Or add another variation in a different color/design that remains true to the shapes I am accustomed to wear.

In the end, what I‘m talking about accounts the same way about certain musicians (the people Hedi is interested in) - If Depeche Mode, The Cure or PJ Harvey were to announce a new album, we‘d already have an idea what it would sound like. And to some people, that is a deeply comforting thought, to know some artists are consistent in their vision.

 

[MulletProof]

Sorry for the "someone told me...", I know it is low quality posting 😅

lol, the ‘my SA told me [inserts wild rumor not even the mid-level employees are privy to but somehow the sales assistant knows and is sharing it, of all people, with customer #481]’ should also come with a required ‘low quality post’ alert!

 

[jeanclaude]

Is this our first look at Haider's Tom Ford?


wmagazine.com

I see a twink disguised as a grown man...but the pants, the glittery fabric and the scarf scream "but not too much, please!".

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Is this our first look at Haider's Tom Ford?


wmagazine.com

Hot and I don't care what anyone says

 

[blueorchid]

Hot and I don't care what anyone says

"Why are my comments being merged with other commenters!!!"

 

[susseinmcswanny]

talk to the HAND🫸 🤚

 

[reese06]

All this talk and Timothee is actually wearing CELINE

LOL

 

[Olaffo]

^ He is wearing Haider for TF as he himself confirmed on his ig…