March 29, 2007
Front Row
Somehow It Feels Old Hat
By ERIC WILSON
THERE are reasons to raise a skeptical brow when a group as disparate as Miuccia Prada,
Ralph Lauren,
Donna Karan,
Marc Jacobs and
Madonna attempt to bring turbans of the Old Hollywood variety back into fashion.
Turbans may be an appropriate visual accent in fashion’s current fixation with early 20th-century revivals, along with the cloche styles favored by Paul Poiret, who is getting the curatorial treatment at the
Metropolitan Museum of Art in May. But since Ms. Prada made the most conspicuous use of turbans, showing glamorous jewel-tone versions in her spring collection, fashion people have been wondering whether an accessory that fell out of favor in Western fashion after World War II could enjoy a renaissance.
If they wear Ms. Prada’s pricey turbans, or the inexpensive Madonna versions at H & M, will they be seen as modern-day Lana Turners luring their postmen? Or as ding-dongs.
This week, The Daily, a gossipy fashion site, took stock of those who have turned up at recent events in the Prada looks, including the designer Rachel Roy, the socialite Vanessa Traina and the turbanista Mary-Kate Olsen, who strangely wore one atop her long white tresses and ended up looking more like Axl Rose. Vogue Hommes did not help matters by hilariously showing Ms. Prada’s turbans on a man.
The
Fashion Institute of Technology is now showing an exhibition of the styles of the milliner Lilly Daché, including a darling navy and pale green striped straw turban from the late ’30s, when fashion hats were the norm. Nadine Leichter, an adjunct instructor, said it was unlikely that the new styles would regain that kind of popularity, for the simple reason that the manufacturing capability of a designer like Ms. Daché no longer exists.
“The turban is so mysterious, but it has such a stigma of the old lady not coming out of her housedress all day,” Ms. Leichter said.
On the other hand, the style — fluid and lightweight — works well with the loose, voluminous clothing of the moment.
“Hats always reflect what is happening in fashion,” she said, as wishful as a turban-clad genie. “But it does have to overcome the old-fashioned point of view.”
François Guillot/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
A turban by Miuccia Prada.
Irving Solero
One from the late ’30s by Lilly Daché.