Hedi Slimane - Designer

[dodencebt]

I don't think the new bag is that bad but it's clearly a Chanel / Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent twin. There is no innovation, only design decisions.

 

[just me]

The meltdowns after the show are gonna be epic. I have no doubt he’ll show the very same sh*t he threw to the runway during his Saint Laurent years but with a more refined and simple styling.

He’s showing at des Invalides, btw...

 

[tctra]

Design is dead. the conglomerate killed it. It is design by committee. if you want something new and fresh, it is to be found in independent designers. but of course they don't have the marketing power of the mega brands

 

[jeanclaude]

I am beginning to think that his tenure at Dior Homme was another case of "Milli Vanilli", but applied to fashion (another designer made the work; and Hedi just got the rewards of it).

 

[Nymphaea]

In Paris the Dior Homme store is replaced by Celine atm. I guess conveniently rearranged by LVMH to give the Celine store more visability with Hedi at the helm now.

 

[Aurimas]

In Paris the Dior Homme store is replaced by Celine atm. I guess conveniently rearranged by LVMH to give the Celine store more visability with Hedi at the helm now.

Does not sound like a natural competition, does it?

Anyway, I doubt Hedi's first Celine collections and pieces will be that good and special. Not because Hedi could not design a good and special collection but because both Hedi and LVMH want long-term growth, it says it all, they will definitely not open the best cards on the first seasons and keep them for later collections to make a 'progression'. And, if you look back, neighter Hedi's Dior Homme, nor at Saint Laurent his first collections were his best work so I would not rush to buy and save my cash for later. It is called planned obsolescence by design stated by Bernard London. I bet Bernard Arnault uses this business practice too.

 

[Nymphaea]

Celine's instagram = Saint Laurent's instagram + Hedi.

 

[reese06]

The preview of the dress on Celine's instagram is pretty but it's just a basic black dress. I'm expecting more of the same. i wish he was a bit more ambitious.

 

[AFWQ]

Industry today is so dull... I was really excited with Heidi being in front of a house, but not loving at all first preview on accessories department...

 

[Cute]

Literally SLP 2.0...

 

[orchidee]

Is there really a need for "two Hedis" in Paris? IMO Anthony is doing his schtick far more compellingly because at least he does some experimentation. Hedi for Celine literally looks like a continuation of his last collection for SLP. Almost as if he's been waiting two years to only do the same thing.

 

[dodencebt]

Retailers React to Hedi’s Celine

Consumers took to social media in droves over the weekend to express everything from enthusiasm to puzzlement and rage over Hedi Slimane’s debut collection for Celine.

Retailers, familiar with the Frenchman’s singular design vision, were largely positive in their assessments — with some exceptions and caveats.

Indeed, some major stores declined to comment for fear of reprisals, while others reserved full judgment until they see what’s in the showroom. Here’s what they had to say about Friday’s show, one of the most anticipated of Paris Fashion Week and the spring 2019 season:

Tomomi Asako, women's buyer, United Arrows: “To be honest, I did not see any difference between the Hedi Slimane era at Saint Laurent and the Celine collection. Hedi has his own style and design and they are to be respected. I was looking forward to seeing how his designs would play out in a traditional house like Celine. To me, his new collection read more Hedi Slimane than Celine.

“In Japan, there are many fans and customers who loved Phoebe Philo's vision of Celine and they might be disappointed. It will be interesting to see how the world reacts to this and what Celine's next step will be.”

Andrew Keith, president, Lane Crawford: “Hedi has a very focused creative vision, which appeals to the legions of fans and customers that have followed him at Dior Homme and Saint Laurent. His direction for Celine is consistent and our loyal Hedi customers will be happy to see him back.

“We’ve had an amazing business with Céline across Greater China since Phoebe’s first collection. She has been an inspiration not only for female customers, she has also led the way for other female designers to embrace their power and design for the modern women they are. That’s something that’s not going away, even though Phoebe may have for the time being — and we’re excited about discovering new creatives to welcome to our portfolio who resonate with our customers who are strong, independent and empowered and want fashions that reflects that.”

Mario Grauso, president, Holt Renfrew: “Holt is extremely excited to continue growing a very important business for us under the new creative leadership of Hedi Slimane. We also look forward to the addition of men’s. I know the fashion press is going crazy with opinions on this first collection from Hedi, but we are very happy to see the Hedi DNA added to the heritage of an amazing French brand. Hedi does Hedi like no other and we will support his vision in all of our stores.”

Alix Morabito, fashion director, des Galeries Lafayette: “He was chosen to take the brand into a new era. Yes, Hedi's style is certainly there and not surprisingly so. There is certainly commercial potential to start with men's as a whole, but also for bags and women's shoes. I can imagine that the LVMH group will know how to meet the objectives that have been set. The world is big, the level of culture and interest quite varied and it is likely that Celine [the one without an accent] will find a new clientele.

“One wonders though where is the Phoebe Philo line? Where can we find that Celine woman [the one with the accent] in today’s luxury universe?”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus: “I think the collection is going to ultimately be very successful at retail. Was I surprised that Hedi did not go far from his codes? No. Was I hoping that he might have reached a little further from we’ve seen from him before? Yes. But as a show and as a presentation, customers are already responding and asking when it’s going to be in store because they’re really excited about it. They’re already texting me, e-mailing me and direct messaging me on Instagram. It’s been very favorable.

“It’s also the first collection, so I’m sure he will continue on his trajectory of his point of view. It would be nice to see if it takes on a personality that is not as similar as where he’s just come from.”

Jeffrey Kalinsky, founder of Jeffrey New York, and designer fashion director of Nordstrom: “I think that nothing makes me happier in the world than that I can see Celine by Hedi Slimane. I am so excited. I loved the show. I think he’s one of the most talented people of my lifetime of being a buyer in this industry, and I think it’s going to be an enormous success. I just can’t wait to get to the showroom, I can’t wait to get the product in the store, and I can’t wait to put it on the backs of my customers. I believe in him.”

Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising director at Selfridges: “In my experience, when designers move from one house to another, they do relatively similar things. So when it was announced that Hedi was going to Celine, I was pretty much expecting what he delivered on Friday. I think it will be commercial. The bags are probably an enormous opportunity, probably the shoes as well for Celine. For the ready-to-wear, we need to see the showroom because the show was so dark.

“For the men’s, I think we probably need to wait and see with what the customer interest will be because it’s going head-to-head with Saint Laurent.”

Riccardo Tortato, fashion director, e-commerce and men’s fashion director, Tsum: “We are happy about bags that we saw so far and we have good request for that. Regarding the rest, I really want to see the full offer in the showroom.”"

wwd.com

 

[Nymphaea]

^The hapiness is almost nauseating, they are seeing a lot of dollar signs, yikes.

 

[mistress_f]

“It’s also the first collection, so I’m sure he will continue on his trajectory of his point of view. It would be nice to see if it takes on a personality that is not as similar as where he’s just come from.”

I wouldn't really count on it, ken downin of neiman marcus. We all know there's not trajectory, it is what it is and it's always been this same old crap.

 

[Benn98]

“It’s also the first collection, so I’m sure he will continue on his trajectory of his point of view. It would be nice to see if it takes on a personality that is not as similar as where he’s just come from.”

I wouldn't really count on it, ken downin of neiman marcus. We all know there's not trajectory, it is what it is and it's always been this same old crap.

Ken-doll (google him!) sounds really delusional! LMAO! Of course he won't change direction anytime soon, especially if this is what he chose to set a tone.

 

[Lola701]

I find it pointless to even ask Buyers about anything. They can’t risk a Hedi tantrum and him pulling his products like he did with Colette so...

I’ve a friend who owns a boutique that sells both YSL and Celine. They only sells womenswear and she said something quite clever.
She said to me that it’s going to be very complicated to market both brands, at least for this season because of all the editorials prerogatives.
Céline under Philo was only available in stores so women had the runway show as the base but in stores, the separates were strong enough for them to really make a personal selection.

Saint Laurent is expected to be styled in a certain way and it’s going to be the same for Celine now: a biker jacket with a shirt and a leather pant or jeans. YSL is a bigger name and Hedi for now has always worked for brands which were « bigger » than him.
In the early 00’s people went to Dior. The fact that it was Slimane was cool but it’s the name Dior that attracts people. The same for Saint Laurent.

Céline was a specific product for a specific brand. What Slimane sells is a bit more mass taste. It’s a look that women (at least) can find at Isabel Marant, Iro, Sandro, The Kooples...etc. Before they had the status symbol of the YSL logo but now...

Nevertheless, she said to me that since the runway show, she has received a lot of call of people wanting to buy the last collection. It doesn’t even matter that it’s not designed by Phoebe, people just want it.
So we can expect Celine’s sales to be very strong but it will be all thanks to Phoebe.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Hmm ... except for Jeffrey and one or two others gushing (he won't be putting any of this on my back, thank you very much), the response here is quite muted IMO. The first response especially I like.

This I found de trop: "Hedi does Hedi like no other ..." Well, I should hope.

What I get out of this is, same old, same old, but customers are excited about it (Lord knows why!).

 

[Nymphaea]

 

[Benn98]

Hedi Slimane Gifts the Biebers With Custom Wedding Leather Jackets

Fashionweekdaily

 

[eugenius]

..and you're not helping by actually posting it, Benn98.