Hedi Slimane - Designer

[blueorchid]

Not a Dinosaur Diva!! 🦖💅🏻

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I am not Hedi's biggest fan, but summarizing his Celine era as the designer who refused to do fashion shows, didn't have VIP in the front row and lacked a "realistic" approach to clothing... sounds shady to me.

 

[Frederic01]

Maybe it’s a language barrier but to me the article is full of shade towards Hedi. Maybe not too critical or harsh but unwarranted lol

“Even if Hedi is a star, almost a dying breed, he’s also a dinosaur diva, and we live in different times now. Someone like Michael Rider, with a perfect resume, is not only with the times but he will play nice and smart. Again, unlike Hedi, who is the opposite of this.”

Which part was that? Just curious as my French is not that good! : )

Michael Rider, le nouveau profil de Celine​

LA RELEVE 2025. Son style minimaliste, sophistiqué autant qu'efficace, semble répondre au besoin d'une approche plus réaliste de la mode.

Il ne prend ses fonctions qu'en ce début d'année mais son arrivée à « la direction créative des collections masculines et féminines de la maison Celine » a été annoncée dès octobre 2024. Depuis, le monde de la mode attend de voir. Car Michael Rider a la lourde tâche de succéder à Hedi Slimane (2018-2024) et avant lui Phoebe Philo (2008-2018). Deux grands noms de la mode contemporaine, infiniment doués, complexes, secrets. Deux figures énigmatiques qui depuis des années, jouent à cache-cache avec les médias, sont absentes des réseaux sociaux, provoquant ainsi une curiosité qui confine parfois au culte. Géniaux autant que complexes, on les dit aussi, parfois, ingérables…
Le discret Michael Rider, antithèse du créateur-star, affiche un CV sans faute. Il commence sa carrière chez Balenciaga « grande époque », alors que Nicolas Ghesquière (aujourd'hui directeur artistique des collections femme chez Louis Vuitton, maison du groupe LVMH, propriétaire des Echos) officie au poste de directeur artistique. Des années de propédeutiques au cours desquelles Michael Rider aiguise son oeil, apprend l'exigence absolue et assiste de l'intérieur à un épisode clé de l'histoire de la mode contemporaine. Il rejoint ensuite Phoebe Philo chez Celine au poste stratégique de directeur du design. Un autre momentum avec l'invention d'un nouveau vestiaire qui met à distance de manière pérenne, une féminité littérale, chargée de signes et de gimmicks entendus. En 2018, Michael Rider est nommé directeur créatif du label Polo Ralph Lauren, blockbuster démocratique à la diffusion globale. Nouvelle échelle et nouveau modèle, tout aussi formateurs pour le designer.

Discret et exigeant​

Au regard de l'historique de la maison Celine, le choix de Séverine Merle - CEO - et du groupe LVMH (propriétaire des Echos) est signifiant. Alors que le luxe traverse une période chahutée dans une économie de plus en plus « data driven », serait-ce la fin de l'ère des créateurs vedettes et de leur gestion très personnelle des marques qui leur sont confiées ? Le profil discret et exigeant de Michael Rider, son style sophistiqué autant qu'efficace, sa formation créative comme sa connaissance d'un marché plus grand public semblent répondre aux changements structurels survenus dans la mode depuis la pandémie. A la créativité et la singularité, vient ainsi s'ajouter un besoin de réalisme.

Depuis plusieurs saisons déjà, Hedi Slimane refusait de défiler et communiquait sur ses nouvelles collections grâce à des vidéos artistiques qu'il réalisait. Sans moment live, sans vrai rendez-vous avec le public, sans VIP aux premiers rangs, en omettant la part événementielle et émotionnelle de la mode, il privait la maison Celine d'images à partager et de viralité. Michael Rider, en charge du prêt-à-porter masculin et féminin, de la maroquinerie, des accessoires et de la haute couture, aura donc fort à faire. Au-delà de la cadence soutenue du rythme des collections, il devra replacer la marque sous les lumières des projecteurs.
Ce n'est pas qu'un détail. Son parcours d'excellence auprès de deux des meilleurs couturiers contemporains et son passage chez Polo Ralph Lauren, marque grand public, devraient lui conférer une vision à la fois créative et pragmatique, pile dans l'air du temps.

LES ECHOS

 

[PDFSD]

Two (phoebe & hedi) enigmatic figures who for years have been playing hide-and-seek with the media, are absent from social networks, thus provoking a curiosity that sometimes borders on cult status. Brilliant as they are complex, they are also sometimes said to be unmanageable...

also Phoebe´s approach was not good enough....for this article lol

But !!!!!!! only a controllable (docile) non diva & discreet michael rider will be..... the easy open path forward for celine to be put back in the right spot light .....child !!!!!! LOLz

!!!!!!i can see where the propaganda vibe comes from ...

if i was Phoebe and hedi i would be pissed as well , the newspaper is owned by your investor and ex boss WTFZZZZ you think he did not sign off on this lol.

 

[99 Percent Polyester]

Which part was that? Just curious as my French is not that good! : )


LES ECHOS

Sorry, I did not mean to imply that I was fluent in French - only that perhaps there are French nuances that don't translate well; I just went off of what the translated copy posted in here said and how it sounded to me personally 😅

---

Hedi Slimane refusait de défiler et communiquait sur ses nouvelles collections grâce à des vidéos artistiques qu'il réalisait. "refusait" or "refused" has such a negative connotation (like he was asked to do something and was defiant) when they could've opted for more neutral phrasing.

Sans moment live, sans vrai rendez-vous avec le public, sans VIP aux premiers rangs, en omettant la part événementielle et émotionnelle de la mode, il privait la maison Celine d'images à partager et de viralité.

"sans... sans... sans...", "privait" or "deprive", again uncalled for. Despite his unconventional methods the house doubled in profit supposedly so it seems odd to criticize a process that ultimately worked.

And then the article just ends with saying Rider has great experience and has what it takes to bring Celine "right in tune with the times." which implies Celine is not with the times thanks to Hedi.

Not that I'm like a Hedi warrior or anything, and I probably read too in between the lines, but this is how I interpreted it at first lol

 

[PPPT]

Based on the article, it seems like we’re about to see a documentary glorifying Michael Rider, similar to what Gucci did for Sabato—which ended in disaster.

The piece criticizes Hedi and Phoebe for underusing media, yet Rider is supposed to bring the brand back into the spotlight? As if they hadn’t already generated massive revenue and prestige for the brand!

It feels like I’m witnessing the brand’s downfall. I hope I’m wrong, but this seems like a “Next Gucci (Sabato)” moment at Celine (Rider).

 

[NoInvite]

He better dance! Sabato 2.0
Now that we have another Phoebe alum at a helm of a French house they a probably setting up a narrative to push his profile for the first collection. What kind of strategy is in place here? Please don’t do an Ancora.
If they guy is really good like they say, I hope they don’t go as far as Blake Lively/Justin Baldoni.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Not that we needed any further confirmation at this point, but the industry clearly favors the sort of creative director these days whose own prominence and persona never outshines the brand itself and will integrate nicely in a corporate structure. People like Nicolas Ghesquiere learned to play the part while others (such as Phoebe Philo or Hedi Slimane) clearly struggled.

I think in order to create truely great fashion, designers should not be bothered with corporate strategy, retain a sense of autonomy and have the marketeers derive their work from their output, rather than the other way around.

All the designers presently considered for top jobs as of the last year have been nurtured in this corporate culture. You simply don’t hear anymore of people becoming creative directors from the laurels of starting their own brands, winning ANDAM or Hyères and then putting out work that has a bit more edge than the polite, boutique-friendly product the mainstream customer likes to purchase.

With that said, I can only hope Haider Ackermann will have unlimited authority as a creative director to remake Tom Ford as he sees fit and be felt in every product and every imagery issued under his wing.

 

[blueorchid]

I can only hope Haider Ackermann will have unlimited authority as a creative director to remake Tom Ford as he sees fit and be felt in every product and every imagery issued under his wing.

You know he won't... unless Ford himself dies. (But I hope he does, because TF in 2024 is a brand that makes my eyes glaze over with boredom.)

 

[tricotineacetat]

You know he won't... unless Ford himself dies. (But I hope he does, because TF in 2024 is a brand that makes my eyes glaze over with boredom.)

Let’s see!

The fact they replaced Peter Hawkings after such a short time clearly had to do with a change of strategy and not shrinking revenue (his products barely had a season to sell). If promoting a behind-the-scenes talent in the name of a seamless transition didn’t work, if would only make sense then to give a designer like Haider the necessary freedom he needs to leave a 360* imprint on the brand (Berluti was a decent proof it doesn’t have to come at the cost of commerciality).

 

[99 Percent Polyester]

You know he won't... unless Ford himself dies. (But I hope he does, because TF in 2024 is a brand that makes my eyes glaze over with boredom.)

💀💀💀💀💀💀

 

[blueorchid]

@99 Percent Polyester Okay, re-reading that comment... I meant to say that I hope Haider can take over with a strong vision, not hoping for Tom Ford's death!!! 😬😬😬😬

 

[99 Percent Polyester]

@99 Percent Polyester Okay, re-reading that comment... I meant to say that I hope Haider can take over with a strong vision, not hoping for Tom Ford's death!!! 😬😬😬😬

lmaoooo, this makes it even funnier 😭😭😭

 

[Lola701]

The only part that is maybe triggering could be the « Depuis plusieurs saisons déjà, Hedi Slimane refusait de défiler et communiquait sur ses nouvelles collections grâce à des vidéos artistiques qu'il réalisait. Sans moment live, sans vrai rendez-vous avec le public, sans VIP aux premiers rangs, en omettant la part événementielle et émotionnelle de la mode, il privait la maison Celine d'images à partager et de viralité. »

But nothing about that is false.
The fact that Hedi decided to not hold shows did not allowed Celine to have moments outside of that small time frame of when the video was released.

And contrary to what Roubil is saying, Rider is not described as a genius but someone skilled and equiped for the position.

As I said, Merle asked for the piece to be made. The choice of Les Echos is strategic. They didn’t asked BOF or WWD or Le Figaro. Les Échos is mostly about economy (and lifestyle) and so, it’s a kind of introduction to her plan and decision behind the choice of Rider.

It says "Michael Rider will be in charge of Mens and Womens RTW, LG, Accessories... and Haute Couture" 😳
Did I miss the official announcement?

They have introduced a Couture line since Hedi took over. Tbh, a lot of houses have their Couture salon nowadays…Even Vuitton.
It’s mostly those eveningwear super precious pieces.
Generally, they are displaced nicely on the top floors of the maisons.

I must say that the Vuitton couture salons are quite confusing in terms of selection.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

They have introduced a Couture line since Hedi took over. Tbh, a lot of houses have their Couture salon nowadays…Even Vuitton.
It’s mostly those eveningwear super precious pieces.
Generally, they are displaced nicely on the top floors of the maisons.

I must say that the Vuitton couture salons are quite confusing in terms of selection.

Thanks for clarifying that.
To me, Haute Couture is a very specific label.
Parisian atelier, flou and tailoring divisions, showing to the press twice a year, at least 25 looks per fashion show, at least 20 employés, meeting three times with the customer for the fitting...

When I read "haute couture" in Les Echos, I thought Celine had built an Atelier from scratch like Balenciaga a couple of years ago.

If they are just doing red carpet looks, like Vuitton, Gucci... the journalist shouldn't use "haute couture". Couture, maybe. But haute it is not.

 

[Lola701]

Thanks for clarifying that.
To me, Haute Couture is a very specific label.
Parisian atelier, flou and tailoring divisions, showing to the press twice a year, at least 25 looks per fashion show, at least 20 employés, meeting three times with the customer for the fitting...

When I read "haute couture" in Les Echos, I thought Celine had built an Atelier from scratch like Balenciaga a couple of years ago.

If they are just doing red carpet looks, like Vuitton, Gucci... the journalist shouldn't use "haute couture". Couture, maybe. But haute it is not.

Yes, the journalist made an error.
We are used to it at this point…Journalists being inaccurate about available informations.
I guess she is not covering fashion.

Yes Redcarpet but can be shopped by clients too.
At Vuitton for example they have a selection of looks (that are sometimes modified for actresses on the Redcarpet) in their eveningwear section that is available in the Couture salons.

The same for Celine. All the gowns and the heavily embroidered pieces from Hedi’s last collection will be available in the Couture salons.

 

[kasper!]

Celine Couture, from CELINE LONDON SA

 

[tricotineacetat]

View attachment 1335440View attachment 1335441


Celine Couture, from CELINE LONDON SA

A bit funny to consider that couture, keeping in mind that sequinned tuxedo jackets were a staple RTW item in Saint Laurent’s permanent collection and regularly seen also at Dior Homme at a reasonable price. A little bit of beaded trimming (even if done in France) should not warrant a garment to be *so* expensive that you only offer it made-to-order…

 

[tricotineacetat]

Some images of the men’s SS'25 couture collection that surfaced on Instagram:

 

[Melancholybaby]

Some images of the men’s SS'25 couture collection that surfaced on Instagram:

So gaudy