Hedi Slimane - Designer | Page 151 | the Fashion Spot

Hedi Slimane - Designer

Raf retconning stops today. Im not letting you turn him into a Helmut Lang or Jil Sander. Raf has always sucked even back when he was supposedly good. A bunch of unwearable but still nothing to look at strapless hoop skirts are nothing important in fashion. How do you manage to make it unwearable and boring - Raf has a unique skillset thats for sure.

Someone here told me that CK putting themselves out of business for Raf was evidence that his Dior was so good. Very unserious takes.
I'm thinking of his work well before he was designing skirts, in any capacity. Say whatever you want about his Dior or CK or Prada—he's certainly gone downhill. But the earlier menswear, as I specified, is undeniably good and influential. The influence is just less directly linear than Hedi's, because the propositions were less narrow/singular. Besides, Raf's first shows in 97/98 also preempt a lot of what we'd see from Hedi in the following years, between YSL and Dior Homme. There's no question that the latter was paying attention to the former.
 
I'm thinking of his work well before he was designing skirts, in any capacity. Say whatever you want about his Dior or CK or Prada—he's certainly gone downhill. But the earlier menswear, as I specified, is undeniably good and influential. The influence is just less directly linear than Hedi's, because the propositions were less narrow/singular. Besides, Raf's first shows in 97/98 also preempt a lot of what we'd see from Hedi in the following years, between YSL and Dior Homme. There's no question that the latter was paying attention to the former.
yes but!!!!! lets not forget In 1996 Pierre Bergé installed Slimane in the position of ready-to-wear director of men's collections at Yves Saint Laurent.
& since day one he was doing skinny silhouette as well and before that as casting director was scouting not bulky guys for other designers.

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Men [Hedi Slimane]- 1998​




Yves Saint Laurent - Ready-to-Wear MenFall / Winter 1999 [Hedi Slimane]

photo_mid_def_172570.jpgphoto_mid_def_172598.jpgphoto_mid_def_172624.jpgphoto_mid_def_172637.jpgphoto_mid_def_172639.jpg
 
Can we perhaps just agree that all the young men that debuted in this year suck and that both Hedi and Raf have each rightfully earned their place in contemporary fashion history in a way that (hopefully) neither of what Blazy/Lee/Rider/Anderson designed will come close to?

All I keep wondering about is why Patrick van Ommeslaeghe was never courted to helm a storied maison, when his talent clearly surpasses that of the aforementioned.
Patrick van Ommeslaeghe is a technician that does not mean he has a complete interior world or vision to be applied for brands not to take away that he did amazing stuff for others and where part of my fav jil raf era.

it's what you get like a Pieter doing Alaia even if technically Pieter is less technically refined as Patrick but is sneaky enough to go for big effect in silhouette.
i think from the last podcast interview he never wanted to do a creative director job as well.
 
I’m about to polarize, but fashion is anthropology. Long story short - I don’t know anyone consequential dressing like Raf.

Im in NYC right now - sadly irrelevant in 2025 - you still see Raf and Lady Gaga 2010s bc the tastemakers left NY years ago at this point. The city’s been culturally flat for a decade. And it’s not even about urbanity anymore it’s about pastoral lifestyle - cruising through lavender fields on a non-fixie bike with a puppy in the basket.

Miami - the hottest city in America right now - runs on Hedi’s Celine silhouette and the Marni/Louis Vuitton vibe. What I see: Celine sleek luxe, Marni fuzzy vests worn with nothing underneath, LV carpenter denim, with LV sneakers. No Raf. I see fresh faced smiley 20 somethings wearing cotton shorts with a knit polo and boat shoes. In NYC they look miserable and proudly stomp around wearing rags with their knee high platform boots.

And yes, DDG in Balenciaga dad sneakers - Rags biggest contribution to menswear. I had endless chances to buy the originals at retail and passed every time. I’ve skipped Raf for two decades and still been leading mens fashion - he isn’t consequential and he isn’t needed.

Part of this is the shift I discussed on here. People dont like Raf. They think he dresses them badly on purpose - which is what I think. Raf is an ideologue who hates beauty and wants to make the world equally ugly. Those dad shoes were always meant to mock the wearer. Raf and all the ideologues trying to make the world an equally ugly place are completely toast.

Give me Hedi or LV/Marni over flea market-core Raf any day.

I also have to toot my own horn. I shape fashion where I am and always have. I show up to work in Brickell, Miami - wearing a Florida inspired powder pink knit button down with tailored navy pants with black shoes and the next time I come into the office - pink polos and navy pants on all the junior associates. I go to Moxies to have a $27 salad and notice I have junior associates from other companies dressing like me…

I literally shape fashion where I am and raise the standards. Without me around of course the Raf seeps in like mold.
 
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LOL Those bags of salt are only for the well-paid ambassadors to wear on the red carpet. The lowly paying suckers will have to settle for the outlet basic merch of preppie-style monogrammed boarding school sweaters, stonewashed jeans and moccasins. Are the Junya Watanabe cargo shorts available at retail? Or are they only for the likes of Ye and his son? I despise the marketing and branding of JW’s Dior. Admittedly, my own distain for JW has his Dior especially more cynical than any other brand’s, But truth is he’s not the worst: His is a mockery of fashion. But like Jeff Koons, it’s a very well-produced mockery with a POV (…that is, if a woman likes to have a huge unsightly hole in a heavy shapeless form with all the construction and design finesse of a PVC shower curtain as a POV. Compare that to Tom Ford’s light as air jersey dress with the strategically placed opening right on a women’s pelvis bone to accentuate the curve of her hip. JW’s the sledgehammer of design-- but that's the mood of fashion right now). Still, someone like Michael Rider deserves our wraith more than JW: His Celine is just so pointless, an utter department-store curation of picked over discounted rejects at the local outlet mall. The logo’d merch will likely sell, but who’s going to drop $9,000USD on one of his generic coats?

Anyway, Hedi’s brand of timelessness is still heads above what’s become of Ralph Lauren’s version of timelessness, frankly. Ralph hasn’t been remotely lifestyle-inspiring for well over a decade now. And it hasn’t been visually aspirations since the Bruce Weber days. Of course if any man is just looking for a proper bird’s eye suit to wear to a traditional wedding, and a woman is looking for dinner suit for any occasion, then Ralph will always be that accessible label. But that WASP of Mayflower Americana heritage that made the brand such a statement despite selling generic Americanwear has long been co-opted to increase profit margins-- so now the WASPy image has been co-opted by every POC LMFAO I still like Ralph Lauren, but Thom Browne cuts a meaner and superior Prince of Wales suit. And not even at his best, could Ralph best Hedi. Hedi's detractors will dismiss him as a weak womenswear designer, and perhaps so. But for the discerning women that doesn’t particularly care for excess volume/flowing froufrou/overly-complicated drapes and even sillier cuts and proportions, then even Hedi’s menswear seems such a supreme alternative to all the desperate nonsense. Sometimes being too hardcore fashion-sophisticated really turns one into a silly cartoon— like Daniel Roseberry’s women, and Raf’s Prada women, and I don’t like to say it since he’s really so much superior to Raf and Daniel— Ghesquiere’s Vuitton women. (...I suspect it's that MAS person that's the Wormtongue to Ghesquiere's Theoden. Get rid of her.)
Ralph Lauren’s purest version is relevant its just not as edgy as Hedi its the softer and friendly version of Hedi like the dad and Hedi the rebel son but they have allot in common celine is a clear example a french parisian house version of RL ´s american mansion on madison

both are a reproduction of a not so long ago vintage to say it in a basic way nostalgia but not hung up more of a timeless statement anti new just to say its new.

i love both even if both are not perfect at all times for me its the complete world that is important to me i dont like fragmented expressions with no decision or strong point of view why i cant and dont respect many of today patch work of design expression.

i don't value this in friends or business either a flip flopper or folks that cant make a decision lol
 
I’m about to polarize, but fashion is anthropology. Long story short - I don’t know anyone consequential dressing like Raf.

Im in NYC right now - sadly irrelevant in 2025 - you still see Raf and Lady Gaga 2010s bc the tastemakers left NY years ago at this point. The city’s been culturally flat for a decade. And it’s not even about urbanity anymore it’s about pastoral lifestyle - cruising through lavender fields on a non-fixie bike with a puppy in the basket.

Miami - the hottest city in America right now - runs on Hedi’s Celine silhouette and the Marni/Louis Vuitton vibe. What I see: Celine sleek luxe, Marni fuzzy vests worn with nothing underneath, LV carpenter denim, with LV sneakers. No Raf. I see fresh faced smiley 20 somethings wearing cotton shorts with a knit polo and boat shoes. In NYC they look miserable and proudly stomp around wearing rags with their knee high platform boots.

And yes, DDG in Balenciaga dad sneakers - Rags biggest contribution to menswear. I had endless chances to buy the originals at retail and passed every time. I’ve skipped Raf for two decades and still been leading mens fashion - he isn’t consequential and he isn’t needed.

Part of this is the shift I discussed on here. People dont like Raf. They think he dresses them badly on purpose - which is what I think. Raf is an ideologue who hates beauty and wants to make the world equally ugly. Those dad shoes were always meant to mock the wearer. Raf and all the ideologues trying to make the world an equally ugly place are completely toast.

Give me Hedi or LV/Marni over flea market-core Raf any day.

I also have to toot my own horn. I shape fashion where I am and always have. I show up to work in Brickell, Miami - wearing a Florida inspired powder pink knit button down with tailored navy pants with black shoes and the next time I come into the office - pink polos and navy pants on all the junior associates.

I literally shape fashion where I am and raise the standards. Without me around of course the Raf seeps in like mold.
Sorry but I lost it at "Miami - the hottest city in America right now." Hot for who? MAGA Republicans? You're confusing your own personal taste with objective reality.
 
Sorry but I lost it at "Miami - the hottest city in America right now." Hot for who? MAGA Republicans? You're confusing your own personal taste with objective reality.
its true its tech bro /wall street city also for tax florida is favorable since pandemic its an extension of NYC only it has better weather
Maga is also very NYC i do t think the woke or left are outnumbering the Rep. either there :-)
 
its true its tech bro /wall street city also for tax florida is favorable since pandemic its an extension of NYC only it has better weather
Maga is also very NYC i do t think the woke or left are outnumbering the Rep. either there :-)
We're days away from Zohran Mamdani being elected mayor of NYC, so I think we can certainly say that the left is outnumbering Republicans there.
 
We're days away from Zohran Mamdani being elected mayor of NYC, so I think we can certainly say that the left is outnumbering Republicans there.
its good he is winning .

i don't want to get into all the layers of politics but you know its not that black and white democrats also voted maga for change so the opposite can happen as well even if Nyc is typically blue

but miami is a hub now for lots of types its true there is lots of big investments going on
 
Like if you use the word c*nty or fierce. I introduced that into the lexicon in 2007. My friends and I thought it was hilarious. We saint fierce and yaaas all the time in 2008-2010.

The kids talk like that now because I set the tempo; some Raf kid prob heard me drop fierce over an espresso at Balthazar in 2009 and built their identity off it.

Like when Beyonce used Slay it was ancient in my world but brand new to the normies.

I have been running this for two decades. I tell you and you are so far down the line you have no idea I made the words you use. Lol. Let me stop.
 
I’m about to polarize, but fashion is anthropology. Long story short - I don’t know anyone consequential dressing like Raf.

Im in NYC right now - sadly irrelevant in 2025 - you still see Raf and Lady Gaga 2010s bc the tastemakers left NY years ago at this point. The city’s been culturally flat for a decade. And it’s not even about urbanity anymore it’s about pastoral lifestyle - cruising through lavender fields on a non-fixie bike with a puppy in the basket.

Miami - the hottest city in America right now - runs on Hedi’s Celine silhouette and the Marni/Louis Vuitton vibe. What I see: Celine sleek luxe, Marni fuzzy vests worn with nothing underneath, LV carpenter denim, with LV sneakers. No Raf. I see fresh faced smiley 20 somethings wearing cotton shorts with a knit polo and boat shoes. In NYC they look miserable and proudly stomp around wearing rags with their knee high platform boots.

And yes, DDG in Balenciaga dad sneakers - Rags biggest contribution to menswear. I had endless chances to buy the originals at retail and passed every time. I’ve skipped Raf for two decades and still been leading mens fashion - he isn’t consequential and he isn’t needed.

Part of this is the shift I discussed on here. People dont like Raf. They think he dresses them badly on purpose - which is what I think. Raf is an ideologue who hates beauty and wants to make the world equally ugly. Those dad shoes were always meant to mock the wearer. Raf and all the ideologues trying to make the world an equally ugly place are completely toast.

Give me Hedi or LV/Marni over flea market-core Raf any day.

I also have to toot my own horn. I shape fashion where I am and always have. I show up to work in Brickell, Miami - wearing a Florida inspired powder pink knit button down with tailored navy pants with black shoes and the next time I come into the office - pink polos and navy pants on all the junior associates. I go to Moxies to have a $27 salad and notice I have junior associates from other companies dressing like me…

I literally shape fashion where I am and raise the standards. Without me around of course the Raf seeps in like mold.
I agree with a lot of this but Miami is not the hottest city in America, it’s a gilded veneer that once stripped away is a “culture” run by tasteless crypto bros and hookers lol.
 
Like if you use the word c*nty or fierce. I introduced that into the lexicon in 2007. My friends and I thought it was hilarious. We saint fierce and yaaas all the time in 2008-2010.

The kids talk like that now because I set the tempo; some Raf kid prob heard me drop fierce over an espresso at Balthazar in 2009 and built their identity off it.

Like when Beyonce used Slay it was ancient in my world but brand new to the normies.

I have been running this for two decades. I tell you and you are so far down the line you have no idea I made the words you use. Lol. Let me stop.
Ok so you're delusional or a troll. That vocabulary comes from ballroom, and from well before 2007. But I'm sure you had a wonderful time 15 years ago feeling like you were ahead of the curve.
 
I’m about to polarize, but fashion is anthropology. Long story short - I don’t know anyone consequential dressing like Raf.

Im in NYC right now - sadly irrelevant in 2025 - you still see Raf and Lady Gaga 2010s bc the tastemakers left NY years ago at this point. The city’s been culturally flat for a decade. And it’s not even about urbanity anymore it’s about pastoral lifestyle - cruising through lavender fields on a non-fixie bike with a puppy in the basket.

Miami - the hottest city in America right now - runs on Hedi’s Celine silhouette and the Marni/Louis Vuitton vibe. What I see: Celine sleek luxe, Marni fuzzy vests worn with nothing underneath, LV carpenter denim, with LV sneakers. No Raf. I see fresh faced smiley 20 somethings wearing cotton shorts with a knit polo and boat shoes. In NYC they look miserable and proudly stomp around wearing rags with their knee high platform boots.

And yes, DDG in Balenciaga dad sneakers - Rags biggest contribution to menswear. I had endless chances to buy the originals at retail and passed every time. I’ve skipped Raf for two decades and still been leading mens fashion - he isn’t consequential and he isn’t needed.

Part of this is the shift I discussed on here. People dont like Raf. They think he dresses them badly on purpose - which is what I think. Raf is an ideologue who hates beauty and wants to make the world equally ugly. Those dad shoes were always meant to mock the wearer. Raf and all the ideologues trying to make the world an equally ugly place are completely toast.

Give me Hedi or LV/Marni over flea market-core Raf any day.

I also have to toot my own horn. I shape fashion where I am and always have. I show up to work in Brickell, Miami - wearing a Florida inspired powder pink knit button down with tailored navy pants with black shoes and the next time I come into the office - pink polos and navy pants on all the junior associates. I go to Moxies to have a $27 salad and notice I have junior associates from other companies dressing like me…

I literally shape fashion where I am and raise the standards. Without me around of course the Raf seeps in like mold.
$27 salad? The jr.asslciates will never be able to save for a down payment :shock:
Do them a favor and bring a lunch bag :-D
 
Ralph Lauren’s purest version is relevant its just not as edgy as Hedi its the softer and friendly version of Hedi like the dad and Hedi the rebel son but they have allot in common celine is a clear example a french parisian house version of RL ´s american mansion on madison

both are a reproduction of a not so long ago vintage to say it in a basic way nostalgia but not hung up more of a timeless statement anti new just to say its new.

i love both even if both are not perfect at all times for me its the complete world that is important to me i dont like fragmented expressions with no decision or strong point of view why i cant and dont respect many of today patch work of design expression.

i don't value this in friends or business either a flip flopper or folks that cant make a decision lol
But Ralph didn’t invent his style—he codified and commercialized it. Long before him, the essence of the American aristocratic aesthetic already existed: Brooks Brothers dressed the Ivy League elite, J. Press and early Abercrombie & Fitch embodied the old-money sporting spirit, and Hollywood’s golden-age icons like Cary Grant etc…RL made the fantasy of heritage something you could actually buy, but he doesn't have a unique aesthetic in the sense of a “signature visual style”.

I’d say Billy Reid is another American (menswear) designer whose style feels more distinctive than Ralph’s — he has the Southern charm and a kind of honesty that makes the clothes warmer, less curated. And Buck Mason is a good alternative to Ralph’s main label.
 
Like if you use the word c*nty or fierce. I introduced that into the lexicon in 2007. My friends and I thought it was hilarious. We saint fierce and yaaas all the time in 2008-2010.

The kids talk like that now because I set the tempo; some Raf kid prob heard me drop fierce over an espresso at Balthazar in 2009 and built their identity off it.

Like when Beyonce used Slay it was ancient in my world but brand new to the normies.

I have been running this for two decades. I tell you and you are so far down the line you have no idea I made the words you use. Lol. Let me stop.

is this a joke or some kind of c*ke rant?😭
 
But Ralph didn’t invent his style—he codified and commercialized it. Long before him, the essence of the American aristocratic aesthetic already existed: Brooks Brothers dressed the Ivy League elite, J. Press and early Abercrombie & Fitch embodied the old-money sporting spirit, and Hollywood’s golden-age icons like Cary Grant etc…RL made the fantasy of heritage something you could actually buy, but he doesn't have a unique aesthetic in the sense of a “signature visual style”.

I’d say Billy Reid is another American (menswear) designer whose style feels more distinctive than Ralph’s — he has the Southern charm and a kind of honesty that makes the clothes warmer, less curated. And Buck Mason is a good alternative to Ralph’s main label.
Hedi also did not invent his style but accumulated it from different part as RL
Ralph did invent a style because accumulated all that is british americana under one image of generational wealthy look.
its as invented as hedi´s rock sharp tailoring band indie world.

before ralph it was just classic or old clothes he grouped them together and made it into this ideal. that is his invention its dont deciding all the details of ivy league etc ect that he used.

like chanel in a way everything she did was basically already around here ..... the famous chanel jacket is a tyrolean janker jacket used by men till today etc etc

Billy Reid sorry you lost me on this one lol
 
Sorry this is unrelated to Hedi but I spit my coffee out reading some of this insane nonsense. Miami? People there wear Philipp Plein. It’s not even fun trashy like Ibiza. It’s culturally irrelevant, a backwater that only exists for money laundering.

How Florida Became 'Wall Street South' Bloomberg​



Luan would be there :-)
 

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