Helmut Lang F/W 2024.25 New York

[vogue28]

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[StylishCynic]

Astonishing that it took him one season to copy some of the most recognizable Phoebe Philo CÉLINE designs with the "Chinatown market bag" plaid prints and utterly bastardize them with the HELMUT LANG moniker.
source: Pinterest

 

[Phuel]

^^^ If anyone is copying anyone, it's Phoebe doing it, courtesy of Helmut.

@LadyJunon updates this thread just to torture me… My eyes couldn’t stop rolling to the back of my head.

Just so forced, contrived, overburdened, overwrought, and an overdose of Frankenstein’s version of Helmut Lang. And that Deisel ripoff monogram is cheap. Even the forced coolness of the cast is cringe. This sort of multi-references in a single design Helmut Lang is like people that think wealth is wearing all the jewelry that they own to court. Other than those influencer people who only think of Helmut as punky high fashion for intellectuals/artists/Patti Smith and hang a poster of a Mapplethorpe photograph on their wall, who is this for…???

 

[susseinmcswanny]

We need to completely recreate human civilization

 

[Overindulgence]

Rick Owens...Y/Project...Demna..... Well, it's better than his debut show though and it's slightly more polished than the rest of NYFW. And I like the shoes and bags, I will just wait for the end of the season sale. The best looks were the ones that were complete copies of old Helmut Lang and/or worn by the OG Helmut Lang models (which just makes the non-OG cast look even less striking in comparison to OG HL crew).

 

[Tchi]

COS

 

[perhydrol]

If someone told me this is an Alexander Wang show, I'd believe them. It's very hard to understand that this show is worse than Do's debut, it's even more tortured and he still doesn't have an eye for colour. All the archival pieces were also too literal. At least now we know that Do is not that talented, and Helmut Lang as a brand is yet another zombie.

 

[LadyJunon]

@LadyJunon updates this thread just to torture me… My eyes couldn’t stop rolling to the back of my head.

Sorry...

Just so forced, contrived, overburdened, overwrought, and an overdose of Frankenstein’s version of Helmut Lang. And that Deisel ripoff monogram is cheap. Even the forced coolness of the cast is cringe. This sort of multi-references in a single design Helmut Lang is like people that think wealth is wearing all the jewelry that they own to court. Other than those influencer people who only think of Helmut as punky high fashion for intellectuals/artists/Patti Smith and hang a poster of a Mapplethorpe photograph on their wall, who is this for…???

The worst thing is that it could actually succeed. Mostly because, the pricing is accessible enough to allow the brand to survive on the "fashion nerd" audience.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[StylishCynic]

^^^ If anyone is copying anyone, it's Phoebe doing it, courtesy of Helmut.

Phoebe may have pilfered the pattern, but, in my opinion, it’s so much worse that Do copied her entire interpretation and didn’t even bother changing the silhouette.

Do can’t even realize a new design with the print??

 

[Alquimista]

The make up makes the whole thing feels opressive rather than nonchalant. The demonic ghost of Demna's Balenciaga is all over it. I have no words about the belts. And the clothes keep on being too literal or a weak interpretation of Lang's work.

And all that makes me question what's the strategy here. Is there women that buy into this look? If the aim is just nostalgia bait, why not rerelease the old collections? I think Raf did something similar.

Finally, I just want CEOs and designers to f*ck right off with that "codes of the house" bs. It's opressive, literal. LITERAL. How can you claim to be an artist and instead of choosing the figurative, the metaphoric, you choose the literal?

 

[nonfatgoddess]

The clothes aren’t that bad but it feels so studied. I don’t think Peter will ever grasp the coolness and sensuality of Helmut Lang. Even if he gets all the OG Lang models it still wouldn’t have the essence. I’m curious to know what Helmut thinks

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

The essence of Helmut Lang : BEING EFFORTLESS.

The essence of Peter Do : TRYING HARD

It ain't a match darling. Divorce will happen soon.

Just shut down the label. Anytime a designer tried to relaunch the brand it has been mediocre and a complete failure. It's a doomed brand. No one will ever able to think like Helmut Lang, let alone reproduce this effortless, cool & minimalist way of designing clothes.

 

[tourbillions]

this didnt need a show

 

[Cocteau Stone]

His Lang is just referencing every other designer that has referenced Lang, with very little input of his own actual perspective so it is a cold and pretentious mess. And it all feels so dated (his own brand too).

Do hasn't been around for that long at all and I'm already sick of them. Both here and at his namesake. He's the kind of designer that works best behind the scenes on the design team, not as an actual creative director.

 

[FashionFanatico]

it's a little better than his debut for HL - but that was easy.

 

[jeanclaude]

Peter bough a big industrial oven, put all the archival pieces in it...and burned them all to the max temperature. When it cooled down, he scratched the fused remains; and with them he made this dirty and ugly mess of a collection...

 

[VogueDisciple93]

PROJECT RUNWAY!!