Helmut Lang Mens F/W 09.10 NYC

[La bordélique]

men.style.com

February 18, 2009

The latest offering from Michael and Nicole Colovos, who've designed Helmut since its 2006 relaunch, was more along the lines of avant-garde collections like Julius (of Japan) or Rick Owens (of Paris by way of Los Angeles) than most of what's shown on New York runways. While others seem fixated on a gauzy ideal of the American manhood (or maybe it's boyhood), the Colovoses cloak their guy in gauzy jersey knits. And dropped-crotch, pegged-leg trousers. And chunky boots. "It's about seasonless dressing," said Michael backstage. "In the winter you wear three T-shirts instead of one." So the collection was a series of single pieces. Highlights included garment-dyed button-fronts, hand-burnished leathers with asymmetrical seams, and raw-edged sweaters with a worn-in feel. Colovos insists this version of Helmut would be just as at home uptown or down, though it felt more downtown to me, and served as a welcome complement to the Americana-heavy propositions shown elsewhere. "There's been a preppy, kind of country look that's that's been big on the runway," Colovos said backstage, "and this is definitely not preppy. It's a classic, timeless wardrobe for the guy who doesn't wear Top-Siders." It's enough to make one reconsider his Fall footwear strategy.

— Josh Peskowitz

Photos: Courtesy of Helmut Lang

 

[La bordélique]

men.style.com

 

[La bordélique]

men.style.com..

 

[La bordélique]

men.style.com...

 

[4n98]

very young,very nonchalant, this is what I appreciated very much.

 

[DD.-]

nice!!!
i like it

 

[kiddokiddo]

Their best presentation so far. Not particularly new, but appealing. Should have ditched the plaids though

 

[KKnardi]

I really like some of the pieces.

 

[awwwwfuq]

i'm really liking this. i never expected them to design like this especially since they were from that habitual jeans line.

 

[Scott]

i don't like. if i want rick i'll wear rick,thank you. how offensive is it that they're finding influence in other designers work when helmut was the complete opposite?

 

[Alejandro]

^ yeah, scott, i agree...this has nooothiiing to do with helmut.

 

[Scott]

exactly. when i think of helmut lang and his legacy its definitely not derivative work...it's innovative.

 

[Spike413]

^Not to mention it looked nothing like this at all.

When I think Helmut Lang, rumpled layers are the last thing that comes to mind.

God I miss Helmut.

 

[waxy]

i like some of the pieces, but i've got to agree with the ones who are saying that the aesthetic of this collection is so not helmet lung... i feel like it's very rick owen-ish.

 

[La bordélique]

helmet lung...

Rick Owens influenced or not... I think this collection looks great, still.
I actually see a bit of Spring/Summer 2004 in this, so to me this isn't like a complete departure from Helmut Lang's aesthetic.

 

[Treefingers]

I just started getting into men's fashions, to be honest, so I'm still really naive when it comes to judging collections distinctly for males.

On the basis of seeing this on men on the street or a boyfriend though, I would be into about a little more than half of the collection. I'd probably wear some of the pieces myself.

 

[Scott]

Rick Owens influenced or not... I think this collection looks great, still.
I actually see a bit of Spring/Summer 2004 in this, so to me this isn't like a complete departure from Helmut Lang's aesthetic.

see,i think if they interpreted some of helmut's classics,like his wonderful,signature refined military aesthetic or his more classic shapes(remember how cult his trousers were?)maybe with some graphic elements. perhaps even incorporating helmut's signature silk ribbon or gauzy detalings,perhaps it would have been more conducive to helmut's legacy. there are so many ideas...so many classics. i mean i think the whole point of doing another person's label is to keep that spirit alive not to completely just do your own thing. i mean look at raf at jil sander...he has had this ability to put a bit of himself into the work and keep it fresh but he has not abandoned any of jil's aesthetics at all in fact he keeps that presence very much at the fore.