Helmut Lang/Prada drama> update*HL-art

[Kimkhuu]

I totally agree with Andro!

Yes, but a designers vision changes over time anyway, and I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t think everything Helmut has come up with has been pure genius, though a lot of it has!

Of course it’ll be an extremely difficult task for the design team to come up with collections up to Helmut’s standards, because they’ll miss his guidance. But I don’t see what would stop them from making collections which are great in their own rights, and thereby continue to evolve the brand.

Macchiom, I don't think it's fair to say a designer's vision changes over time, saying it goes through an EVOLUTION process to adapt to our changing times would be more appropriate.

Any "great" designer will have his/her own vision to start off with, which generally gives their clothes a distinct touch. Of course, over the years, they come up with creative and different collections, but the mentality behind each one will be the same. I'd be asking myself some serious questions about the credibility of a label which constantly changes their formula.

Of course the design team will be able to produce some great pieces, but what meaning will they have if they are not made by the true visionnaire? Of course the brand is going to continue to evolve and a lot of people are still going to buy from them (since I am pretty sure there will be much more marketing, accessories and perfumes.....), but it will all loose it's true and pure meaning.

 

[softgrey]

it seems that many of you didn't read the whole article or missed the part where the design team packed up and LEFT WITH THE DESIGNER...

 

[Astrid21]

yes that would be too cute, go mail him bird

while in Paris, i've heard that he's already building his new brandname,
Helmut is no faint hearted, he will find a way, i'm sure he will

Exciting. I was just fixing to cry...literally.

Thanks for the tidbit, Lèna.

 

[Andro]

It just occurred to me this afternoon, while browsing the department stores' designer sections, that Prada is up to something. I can't really put my finger on it but I just feel that Prada is going to make a major move within the next year or so.

After reading the post today and assessing the facts...
*Prada's request for $LOANS$ from German Banks (something like $650'000'000 USD)
*resignation of Jil and Helmut
*Prada Group shutting down Helmut Lang NYC offices and showrooms
*Laying off JIL SANDER German textile production factories
*Closing down more Jil Sander boutiques(there were more free-standing boutiques open worldwide in 1999 before Prada took contro!)
*Prada selling off personal private family property and clothing warehouse spaces

I came up with the conclusion that Prada is either going to go bankrupt. Or they are going to sell off Sander/Lang to LVMH and go public on the NYSE and keep Alaia.

Whenever something happens with the Prada Group, details are kept on the downlow. Everything is hush hush so there must be something that they're trying to hide. I wonder what the big secret it. I rarely hear any comments from their spokespeople.

 

[macchiom]

Macchiom, I don't think it's fair to say a designer's vision changes over time, saying it goes through an EVOLUTION process to adapt to our changing times would be more appropriate.

Any "great" designer will have his/her own vision to start off with, which generally gives their clothes a distinct touch. Of course, over the years, they come up with creative and different collections, but the mentality behind each one will be the same. I'd be asking myself some serious questions about the credibility of a label which constantly changes their formula.

To some extent I agree with you. There will always be some of the original vision left, but I still think the designers vision gradually will be affected by the changes in the surroundings and by his/her own personal development.

it seems that many of you didn't read the whole article or missed the part where the design team packed up and LEFT WITH THE DESIGNER...

Well, the article only speculates that a handful of his assistants might have left with him. It doesn’t state it as a fact.

 

[Mr-Dale]

Oh my God! I'm gone from tFS for a few days and suddenly Helmut Lang is dying more and more. I am surprised and disappointed...

 

[kimair]

buyers interested in helmut lang

(mods: didn't know if i should post a new thread for this, but you can separate it out if you like )

excerpts from today's wwd:

Is it or isn’t it for sale?

That question has swirled around the Helmut Lang business, owned by Prada Group, for at least a year. Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli has never officially acknowledged any plan to put the Lang business on the block, but it appears at least three potential buyers are looking at the company.

Lang resigned in January from the firm he founded 19 years ago because of conflicting strategies for the development of the brand. And the company’s creative center in New York is closing, but apparently that hasn’t deterred suitors interested in buying the brand from Prada Group.

“There is one fashion entrepreneur and two investment funds [that are talking to Bertelli],” said one Milan-based source. “If they are smart, they’ll talk to Lang, as well. Especially in the case of a fund, it simply can’t do without the designer.”

The source said it is only “logical” for Prada to sell Helmut Lang. “Why should Bertelli keep it? The designer is not going to go back as long as the brand remains with Prada.”

Prada took control of Lang’s business in 1999, at the peak of its success with minimalist, edgy cool, and planned to grow it globally. The label’s growth never materialized...

“There are two international investment funds and one Italian entrepreneur interested in Helmut Lang,” said another industry source, adding that a deal could be closed within the year. “Otherwise, it’s just about waiting [to sell].” The source added, “There is no asking price. It’s a difficult situation as the company’s sales are waning, its brand stores are not doing well and the designer has left.”

Another source pointed out that Lang has a noncompete clause in his employment contract with Prada that forbids him to work in any related business for six months.

After the acquisition, Prada repositioned the brand in the high-end range of the market, neglecting to bank and expand Lang’s successful jeans line, another source said. “While the specialized press appreciated his designs, it was difficult for Prada to build a high-end business in such a difficult moment for the sector [hit by Sept. 11 and the war in Iraq],” said the source.

Prada intends to make Milan the Lang business headquarters, including design, production, finance and public relations functions, a Paris source said. It is believed that a small part of Lang’s creative team remains in Italy, where the line is produced, and that fewer than a dozen people were affected by the shutdown of the New York creative office. One industry source speculated that Prada might even have some of its in-house design staff moonlighting on the Lang brand. The Paris source, however, characterized the retrenchment as a precursor to a possible transaction, or perhaps even a suspension of operations.

Retailers who saw the fall-winter collection, which was designed by an in-house team and shown by appointment this month rather than on the runway, described it as basics-oriented, with an emphasis on Lang’s signature items, particularly coats and trousers. They also noted prices were lower than usual.

 

[mikeijames]

i think helmut lang could work magic at one of the legacy houses in paris or milan...and now he can take his entire team with him...

 

[softgrey]

Well, the article only speculates that a handful of his assistants might have left with him. It doesn’t state it as a fact.

it also speculates that only a small part of his team remains in italy...and in another part..which i may have edited out(oops!)...it speculates that the prada team is moonlighting for helmut lang now...


kimair...i think it's find to leave it here ...thx for posting it...

 

[Kimkhuu]

“There is one fashion entrepreneur and two investment funds [that are talking to Bertelli],” said one Milan-based source. “If they are smart, they’ll talk to Lang, as well. Especially in the case of a fund, it simply can’t do without the designer.”

Wouldn't it be great if they buy Helmut Lang and bring the designer back. I would be really happy.

 

[softgrey]

i know kimkhuu...that would really be ideal...
his non-compete clause is only for six months too...he could be back after only one season if he really wanted...

 

[kimair]

true...and since helmut isn't going back to "helmut lang" while it remains under prada's control, seems like they should sell the company and let him design under his name again.

 

[Tism]

This whole thing is silly, but it is business at its truest form. For those who think this won't affect anything let's just go with an analog. If your favorite band, which let's say is n*sync (corporate owned) for argument sake, broke up and they put a new group of boys in their place do you think it won't drive their sales down? Sure they may have some hits and make some sales, but you know the core audience will have moved on with the artists. Now I know it will be easy to attack this example, by attacking the band, but replace it with whomever you like even single artists like Sting, Mike Watts, or Scott Herren (Prefuse 73). If anyone else, or group, would replace them and perform under their name you’d feel like you took “crazy pills” to quote a certain fashion movie. Though there is a minor, minor market for cover bands, I don’t think there is one for cover bRands. The replacements may be good for redoing the basics, but how will they push the aesthetic forward in an honest dialog? On the other side there seems to be a bit of opportunity in the fashion world for emerging designers right now since it seems that the older generation are getting booted out their nests. I also think that maybe you are all being too harsh to everyone on all sides of these issues. If Lang remained self-owned he may have been forced to become very commercial to survive. Maybe Helmut sold to Prada so that he could be more experimental, or at least more focused on the design side since someone else will be handling the bureaucracy of it and footing the bills. Who knows, but those involved. I wonder if the label is sold off soon will Helmut still have to wait out his non-compete even if he came back to his namesake under the new ownership? Last thing my vote would be for Lang to name his new label HELL N GAMUT, an anagram of his name.

 

[clay]

This is a shame. But how many times must we this. The big fish buy up the little fish and make all these changes simply to make more money. The little guys go into these agreements for money. The sad part is that the smaller labels already have some money. They are successfull and growing, then they want to be Ralph or Tommy. Why???????? SO freaking stupid. Thats why I like Dries. He says hey Im already rich, how much more money do I need. He cares about integrity of his vision and lifes work. These others that get caught up dont, so let em get chewed up and spit out.

 

[stylegurrl]

From Vogue.com


HELMUT SURVIVES

THE news last week that Prada were closing Helmut Lang's SoHo headquarters had the fashion pack in a panic that the end was nigh for the 19-year-old label, which the designer walked away from in January. However, Lang himself dispelled fears by having his PA call journalists all over the world on Thursday to ask for an address so they could send through the latest portrait of him. While the assistant couldn't tell us anything about Lang's future plans, he requested that we use this image whenever we wrote about him in the future. Clearly there are plans afoot. (March 29 2005, AM)

 

[softgrey]

YAY!!...plans afoot!!!...
go helmut!!!...

 

[AlexN]

*celebration*

 

[josephr]

it's difficult for me to admit how much i care about fashion, but i have to admit the last bit of this thread has elevated my mood greatly. helmut's looking good, if that's really a recent picture...lost some serious weight.

at any rate, for insurance, i'm going to try to buy a new black HL suit this week in case i can't in the future.

 

[softgrey]

hello tism...interesting post...welcome to the fashion spot...

 

[Lena]

i'm positive.. Helmut will certainly bite back before too long.
he could even try and buy back the brand himself,
he's not the kind of guy that gives up