Helmut Lang/Prada drama> update*HL-art

[RueFaubourg]

I didn't know this. 2 of my favorites right there.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Well, it's not the end of the world I suppose. And it is sort of excess to show the same clothes again in 4 weeks.*sigh* Oh well. One less show to look forward to in january *sigh*

I had no idea Helmut Lang was based in NYC! I just assumed he worked out of Paris.

 

[RueFaubourg]

for years he was out of Vienna.

Then he moved to NYC in the mid 90s, I believe?

I love Helmut b/c he does whatever he wants and it seems like every other huge NY based house follows his lead like little puppies. It's so fun.

And just when they think they finally get him, he goes and shows his collection onlione instead of on the runway.

Oh Helmut. Silly Helmut.

 

[softgrey]

I didn't know this. 2 of my favorites right there.

mine too...

 

[pradaesk]

from wwd...
“was a creative decision made by the designer himself.”

oh, what euphemistic paraphrase for the debacle!


BTW: as HL sale starts here tomorrow, i guess i have to activate my knock-down-genes

 

[faust]

oh, what euphemistic paraphrase for the debacle!


BTW: as HL sale starts here tomorrow, i guess i have to activate my knock-down-genes

Where were you when the sample sale was on?

 

[macchiom]

This is sad news and I honestly didn’t see it coming. But if he feels more comfortable showing men’s and women’s together, then you have to respect it. I just hope that this doesn’t mean that he’s going to pay less attention to the menswear in the future.

What I find interesting and somewhat comforting in the FWD article is that he hints at a separate menswear show for s/s 2006

Kudos to the Prada Group for letting Helmut take such an important strategic decision!

 

[Fade to Black]

I'm kinda confused here...can someone please explain what is going on? So does this mean that Helmut is no longer designing menswear, or is it just the menswear won't be shown on the runway but will still be in stores?

 

[macchiom]

I'm kinda confused here...can someone please explain what is going on? So does this mean that Helmut is no longer designing menswear, or is it just the menswear won't be shown on the runway but will still be in stores?

Don’t worry he’s still designing menswear and will show it together with the women’s collection in March.
He will even have some kind of presentation ready for the buyers in next month’s men’s fashion season in Paris.

 

[Fade to Black]

Don’t worry he’s still designing menswear and will show it together with the women’s collection in March.
He will even have some kind of presentation ready for the buyers in next month’s men’s fashion season in Paris.

Thanks, that's great to know. Helmut has a special place in my heart because he was basically my introduction to fashion.

 

[Lena]

Helmut & Prada Group : tension builds up

the tide is up at Prada Group ....seems like Helmut is moving on

PARIS— If Jil left Jil Sander — twice — could Helmut exit Helmut Lang?

Speculation is rife in Europe that tensions between Lang and the Prada Group are mounting and may be nearing the breaking point.

Through a spokesman, Lang declined to comment. On Tuesday, a Prada Group spokesman also declined to comment.

According to sources, the two sides are at odds over the direction and development of the Lang fashion house, upon which Prada Group tightened its grip last fall, buying the 49 percent it needed to gain full control.

In a sign of how tense relations have become between Prada and the Austrian-born, New York-based Lang, the designer is said to have recently removed some personal belongings from his Greene Street flagship, including large artworks on the selling floor, that reinforced his edgy brand of cool.

“This could be heading in the direction of Jil Sander,” said one source, referring to the insurmountable clashes that caused Sander to leave her namesake fashion house for the second time in November. Sander was succeeded by the design team she left behind.

When Prada announced its increased stake in Lang during Paris Fashion Week in October, the company characterized it as a “clear demonstration of how strongly we believe in the potential of the brand. We have enjoyed a solid relationship with Helmut over the past several years and look forward to continuing our fruitful collaboration in the years to come.”

The new business arrangement seems to have put an additional strain on the relationship between formidable Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli and the uncompromising Lang. “When you become an employee, it’s difficult,” said one source.

That tension between the designer and his Italian owner predates the recent transaction is well understood. Thorny subjects include the merchandising of the collection and creative control of the accessories categories, where Prada has particular expertise and a category that it has been eager to expand at such labels as Sander and Lang.
............
Prada bought a 51 percent stake in Lang in 1999 during an acquisitions spree by Europe’s luxury groups. At the time, the Lang brand was flying high, and wholesale volume was said to be approaching $100 million. But sales declined in subsequent years, and in 2003, they dropped 33.1 percent, to 27.85 million euros, or $37.1 million at current exchange rates. Prada said at the time that it was still attempting to reposition the brand and therefore had closed some unsatisfactory wholesale accounts. At that time, a Prada spokesman also said that closing those accounts, along with macroeconomic factors such as a strong euro, SARS and the Iraq war, had hurt Lang’s sales figures.

It is believed the brand loses money, as the Prada brand contributes an estimated 136 percent of group operating profits.
.........
Prada has repeatedly denied speculation it wants to sell the Helmut Lang company.

extracts from a wwd article

 

[softgrey]

yikes...
thx for posting this lena...

 

[maarit]

sad but not suprising.
I imagine Prada group can't wait to really milk the accessories of the Sander and Helmut brands.

 

[amchan]

wait, it means Helmut Lang will no longer design menswear or just will not hold the men shows? because as long as there's still menswear to buy in the market i mean...

 

[Lena]

it means Helmut might just exit his own label alltogether dear amchan

btw, welcome to tFS

 

[liberty33r1b]

say this isn't true....

 

[Lena]

well, he moved out his personal belongings from the NY headquarters.. it may say something no? .....sad story of the day..

 

[softgrey]

i agree lena...that could be a bad sign...

 

[raimund]

Pathetic. It seems to be once again a proof of the strategy by the Prada group in acting against its competitors, with resemblance in styling, by acquiring them, trampling their brand equity by suffocating the creative capacity of the original designers, before selling them when such brands have suffered too much to recover.

 

[Lena]

Pathetic. It seems to be once again a proof of the strategy by the Prada group in acting against its competitors, with resemblance in styling, by acquiring them, trampling their brand equity by suffocating the creative capacity of the original designers, before selling them when such brands have suffered too much to recover.

absolutely, its so transparent isnt it?
thats their whole strategy since they started buying off other brands right? very well put raimund

btw, welcome to tFS