Helmut Lang/Prada drama> update*HL-art

[raimund]

absolutely, its so transparent isnt it?
thats their whole strategy since they started buying off other brands right? very well put raimund

btw, welcome to tFS

Thanks, Lena. I enjoy this group so much that it has become my everyday visit, religiously. Cheers to all administrators and participants who are leading me to the world of fashion!

 

[Heroin_Chic]

This SUCKS!

The Helmut Lang Men Shows always were the ABSOLUTE HIGHLIGHTS for me each season!

I dislike it when Mens and Womens Fashion are shown together - one gender only Shows allow more comparebility & clearity!

 

[Alura]

Some will say 'but it's worth it!' but I think the pricing for HL's products was too high for the people attracted to it. I'm willing to pay it but a lot of HL fans are working in art and not always making that much money, sorry if I typecast too much but sometimes overpricing can be a factor too. The Prada Group is a high pricer in general but what they do with these acquired brands is: high pricing, low advertising... they don't work on the brand's image while the prices go up and up... you know what I mean? How much promotion did HL get the last few years? or Jil Sander? Nothing compared to Prada and Miu Miu for example.

 

[Heroin_Chic]

the tide is up at Prada Group ....seems like Helmut is moving on




extracts from a wwd article

My god - I don`t understand it! Jil Sander without Jil and Helmut Lang without Helmut!? It`s ridiculous & unbelieveable!

If the Designer/Originator of a brand is still alive he/she MUST design! Otherwise the brand is a JOKE!!!

How can Companies treat the Designers so bad that the eventually resign! And how can the Designers do it!

I don`t get it!

 

[maarit]

If the Designer/Originator of a brand is still alive he/she MUST design! Otherwise the brand is a JOKE!!!

Do you consider YSL a joke?

 

[Heroin_Chic]

Do you consider YSL a joke?

Do you consider Mr Laurent "alive"? (We all know of his psychological issues, his age etc.). He did his job GENIOUS for decades - it`s ok that he doesn`t design anymore.

 

[Alura]

Do you consider Mr Laurent "alive"? (We all know of his psychological issues, his age etc.). He did his job GENIOUS for decades - it`s ok that he doesn`t design anymore.

And he voluntarily resigned with a bang, he wasn't rudely pushed out.

 

[Alejandro]

^ Thank God Loehmann's down here has some Helmut Lang 75% off, esp. jeans

 

[faust]

Some will say 'but it's worth it!' but I think the pricing for HL's products was too high for the people attracted to it. I'm willing to pay it but a lot of HL fans are working in art and not always making that much money, sorry if I typecast too much but sometimes overpricing can be a factor too. The Prada Group is a high pricer in general but what they do with these acquired brands is: high pricing, low advertising... they don't work on the brand's image while the prices go up and up... you know what I mean? How much promotion did HL get the last few years? or Jil Sander? Nothing compared to Prada and Miu Miu for example.

I don't think it was high priced in absolute terms, but it's definitely has become high priced for the value. The quality of materials has declined consistently, and especially last season. I am very surprised that Helmut's sales have declinded steadily, because I thought that his F/W 03-04 and S/S 04 were one of this strongest collections. And I don't know what Prada's problem with HL's accessories, but I think they are one of the best in the industry.

 

[Heroin_Chic]

And I don't know what Prada's problem with HL's accessories, but I think they are one of the best in the industry.

I totally agree! They`re totally unique!

Maybe they sell bad because they never become "It-pieces" - but I think that`s a sign of their quality & art - cheesy Celebrities like Jessica Simpson f.e. will never understand their beauty...

 

[Scott]

If it there were already contstraints,why did he go ahead and sell the rest of his company? In order just to get out all together,you think?

That Petrezio is one arrogant S.O.B.

 

[faust]

If it there were already contstraints,why did he go ahead and sell the rest of his company? In order just to get out all together,you think?

That Petrezio is one arrogant S.O.B.

I definitely think so (on both accounts ). Think about it, Prada already had 51% of the voting power, why would he need the other 49%?

 

[Scott]

True...

Its really sad. I mean,the whole of the industry now seems to rely heavily with mere capitalists. Its extremely disgusting the attention is no longer about design or integrity....just the money making machine of a few trendy products.

As a side note: I find it quite ironic that Miuccia,of late,seems really influenced by quirky indies(copy cat) yet her husband is trying his damndest(along with the rest of these bullies)to banish any kind of design talent whatsoever. These people are controlling the industry,and I feel this is the main reason so many smaller labels aren't able to survive. They want their cake and eat it too.

 

[AlexN]

Prada Group can burn in hell...

 

[Arturo21]

That's so sad , I really loved his menswear

 

[faust]

True...

Its really sad. I mean,the whole of the industry now seems to rely heavily with mere capitalists. Its extremely disgusting the attention is no longer about design or integrity....just the money making machine of a few trendy products.

As a side note: I find it quite ironic that Miuccia,of late,seems really influenced by quirky indies(copy cat) yet her husband is trying his damndest(along with the rest of these bullies)to banish any kind of design talent whatsoever. These people are controlling the industry,and I feel this is the main reason so many smaller labels aren't able to survive. They want their cake and eat it too.

Yes. But, there are always examples of integrity - look at the shine of Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, and Ann Dem (even though I am not thrilled with the latest news).

That is also why you, my friend, are always on the prowl for new talent. There will always be a niche of people (hopefully with money) who appreciate beauty, quality, creativity and craftmanship. The rest will always be sheep. The real problem is the public. It transcends fashion. Those who buy what Vogue tells them are the same people who watch reality shows and inane Hollywood films.

 

[Scott]

I agree. I just think the whole of the mainstream is not even about fashion design anymore. Its like going to a shopping mall when one thinks of what's going on out there now. Banal and disgustingly grotesque.

I remember a few years ago,when there was a great deal of equality and respect amongst all designers. I mean,Helmut Lang when he was indie was just as respected as Calvin Klein was. Then when the conglomerates started snapping up all these talents,the mood changed a great deal. This is what their attention has turned to now,these conglomerates and their manufactured style...this is what the fashion industry in general follows and let's control. They no longer carry the same respect and admiration for individual talen they used to.

Just like Dries said in that i'view a while back...that the fashion world is a big nutshell and that nutshell is the conlglomerate world.

But yes,I do have alot of hopes amongst new talents and the indie world in general. In fact,because of the progression the industry has went towards,I don't even pay attention anymore to the mainstream.

 

[Lena]

great thoughts -as usual- scott ...

 

[pradaesk]

That is also why you, my friend, are always on the prowl for new talent. There will always be a niche of people (hopefully with money) who appreciate beauty, quality, creativity and craftmanship.

very well said indeed

 

[Theory]

This is true, but Prada and its management failed miserbly at capturing the Jil/Helmut customer (pre-Prada) and absorbing that client base into the Prada brand itself...that would have been the most successful strategy if they were simply going to destroy both Jil and Sander....Prada Group has lost tons of money on this investment and the lackluster sales and perceived (well real) quality issues at Helmut especially have been a problem. Buying the opponent brand makes sense, but Prada can't even get its ish together for an IPO.....nobody is gonna want to invest given their poor track record at brand acquistion and expansion (spending $40M on Prada flagship stores).
This is why what Prada has done here makes little sense, because not only have they failed at attracting new clients to these brands.....they failed to retain the die-hard supporters....and then have no crossover between the two......it's fine if Jil and Helmut are off the market but Prada's sales itself won't increase two or threefold and the name Prada was already more recognizable to begin with......

I know Faust mentioned it and its true about Helmut, gone are the 100% virgin wool pants, the double needle stitching and other hallmarks that the pre Prada Helmut customer could count on...........disappointing news here if Helmut leaves as well.....same thing w/Jil demanding Prada adhere to her quality standards and being laughed at...

I am assuming that Jil and Helmut both signed non-compete clauses...I wonder how long that will last for....

first you buy your 'opponent' brand, then you distroy it, then you sell it, very simple marketing attitude, bad that both Lang and Sander didnt know any better,
at the end of thee day, its not mr. Prada's fault
(hope you get the black humour)