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style.comNEW YORK, September 8, 2011
By Maya Singer
There were two interesting developments this afternoon at the ballroom of the W Union Square. First, Tara Subkoff relaunched her Imitation of Christ label, eschewing the ready-to-wear Imitation brand she's been showing for two seasons in favor of IOC's remade vintage. Second, Lydia Hearst got married in front of the fashion audience. Seriously. For real.
The show was set up as a wedding processional, with models playing bridesmaids and groomsmen wearing IOC's suits and dresses. The prevailing look was dressed-up Depression-era, with lots of pastel lace bias-cut dresses and drop-waist chiffon florals, plus occasional forays into flapper silhouettes. On some items it was hard to discern what renovation had been done, while others, like a beaded flapper dress, looked made from scratch. Most of the legible work was embroidery, in particular flowers and birds that, depending on your mood, conjured either Miu Miu's Fall 2011 collection or the Portlandia skit "Put a Bird on It." (YouTube it.)
After the show, Subkoff said she was inspired to resurrect Imitation of Christ because she wanted to get back to handwork. "Hundreds of hours went into those dresses," Subkoff noted. "It's nice to work that way. And also, I feel like it's important that not every single thing that goes on at fashion week be about commerce. There should be some art, too." That's a sentiment a lot of designers would get behind. But what Subkoff is up to here isn't quite art for art's sake. It's more like craft for craft's sake, which is a perfectly noble pursuit, but one that didn't necessarily square with the pomp and circumstance of the presentation. At any rate, we wish the happy couple well.
I've always been confused about how I feel about this line. I love the idea of art for art sake. This project seems to keep going without profit? I would love to know the secret to backing a constant vanity project. The collection before this weeks was absolutely gorgeous and well made and sellable. This current piece is a fun presentation but I don't see how hundreds of hours could've been put in unless you are adding up the hours the original designers gave them. Anyone care to share? I'm intrigued about how it still is here on so many levels. Perhaps the mystery itself is the root of selling outrageous prices for certain pieces?just read the review... it is in fact the relaunch of Imitation of Christ:
style.com
I have to agree with Maya Singer...
I think the presentation is more impressive than the clothes.
Some of them just look like vintage dresses with little applique flowers sewn on...
more craft than art