Interview With Bernhard Willhelm
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Heh-heh, are they really that bad? Ok, I'm a girl and I love leggings and prints, so maybe my judgement is skewed. I can see many of the pieces worn separately to more flattering effect, though I know that they aren't designed to flatter. I'd love to have a version of those pants on fire IF the price is right. The baggy sleeves-sweater thing w leggings/skinny pants has been a staple of the clubbing set for a while now in Berlin and Asia - the tiny T-shirt/tank/camisole has long been banished under loose, colourful layers. They go with big, layered 70s hair and quirky jewelry [eg. Prada's strangely-out-of-place robot charms lookalikes] and the music of Peaches, Chicks on Speed, Har Mar Superstar [hmm, not one of them German..]. Seen in this context, the clothes aren't terribly outrageous, though they would be on a LV runway.
It does confirm that BW doesn't track any particular runway trend and is very much a loose canon. He's just an apple in sea of citrus fruits, so it's hard to make comparisons. There has been a very strong lady/goth/victorian/edwardian/frilly vibe going on for ages now on the major fashion runways, but running concurrently and relatively un-noticed are some other sub-cultures in more obscure Euro cities. I don't know if that would ever erupt into the mainstream, but I'm just happy to see [and wear] something alternative to what's all the rage for now.
It does confirm that BW doesn't track any particular runway trend and is very much a loose canon. He's just an apple in sea of citrus fruits, so it's hard to make comparisons. There has been a very strong lady/goth/victorian/edwardian/frilly vibe going on for ages now on the major fashion runways, but running concurrently and relatively un-noticed are some other sub-cultures in more obscure Euro cities. I don't know if that would ever erupt into the mainstream, but I'm just happy to see [and wear] something alternative to what's all the rage for now.
Zazie said:
There are more than enough alternatives out there to the mainstream garbage, and they don't have to make a circus out of thesmelves just to prove that their alternative - they just stick to what they do best, making beautiful quality clothes that follow their philosophy.
I dunno,Zazie. This post-modern look has actually run the gamut for some seasons now....and all these hipster's in the world have stuck to it. Not only is it Bernhard but it's Wendy & Jim(who I think has evolved better than he has),BLESS,Kim Jones,Ann-Sofie Back,Cosmic Wonder,Patrick Soderstam,Henrik Vibskov....it's an all right style but it's beginning to get tedious and I personally want some dressing for dressing's sake not for blandness;or an ironic take on laziness.
bring back jurgi!PrinceOfCats
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Post-modern would be if the joke was on us. You take a guy in a big football costume with flames printed on it and the clothes are the only joke, not in the sense of them being witty.
Peaches, Chicks on Speed, Fischer Spooner *are* a circus. The club culture isn't about good subtle taste. You see something disdainful and loud, some others might see it as exuberant and sexy. I'm not sure if I would describe this as a pomo trend/80s revival despite some superficial similarities. It is certainly about shape and proportion[not the human shape but the shape of the clothes], very graphic cut, colour and prints. The designers you mentioned are mostly British, but the Brits are out of this loop. I would say the Northern Euros [Ivana Helsinki is a very wearable version], plus a very small subset of Japanese are the ones sporting this look. I don't at all understand what you mean by blandness and "ironic" laziness. The designers make a lot of effort in exploring cut, experimenting with materials, textures, colours. I think we're looking at very different peoples. A lot of pieces are handmade or customised, eg. the Freitag bag. What's lazy is churning out the same skirt or babydoll dress in different materials year after year.
Since it never made it to the mainstream, I'm just as happy that it has stayed alive and well at the margins. Why wish for it to go away when it is original, not at all derivative or thematic, cheap and cheerful and popular among a certain group? Grunge was put down a lot at first, but in the end, it did make a culture impact. Sure it's not everyone's style, Grunge isn't mine, but so what? I don't rail against it. It can happily thrive in its own little sub-culture segment. Frankly, I don't understand the strong reaction against this [and other] rather harmless little fashion offshoot, considering the mountains of awful, repeated, recycled collections out there. Ever seen Anna Sui produce anything different? The subs aren't going to hurt the big guys. You will always have your LVs, CDG, Gucci, YSL bags and shoes etc. As for pretentiousness, the schmoozing conglomerates and the big stars and media cliques are all out there doing what? Being authentic?
The fashion blockbusters have enough support out there. No one should buy into the indies when it's not their style, but the bashing has to be fair and justified.
Since it never made it to the mainstream, I'm just as happy that it has stayed alive and well at the margins. Why wish for it to go away when it is original, not at all derivative or thematic, cheap and cheerful and popular among a certain group? Grunge was put down a lot at first, but in the end, it did make a culture impact. Sure it's not everyone's style, Grunge isn't mine, but so what? I don't rail against it. It can happily thrive in its own little sub-culture segment. Frankly, I don't understand the strong reaction against this [and other] rather harmless little fashion offshoot, considering the mountains of awful, repeated, recycled collections out there. Ever seen Anna Sui produce anything different? The subs aren't going to hurt the big guys. You will always have your LVs, CDG, Gucci, YSL bags and shoes etc. As for pretentiousness, the schmoozing conglomerates and the big stars and media cliques are all out there doing what? Being authentic?
The fashion blockbusters have enough support out there. No one should buy into the indies when it's not their style, but the bashing has to be fair and justified.
I pondered the influence question over. The 80s was a period of a number of influences - punk, new wave, glam rock, new romantics, and of course pop. The closest 80s German influence for this current aesthetic is probably Kraftwerk, the father of techno, which was in turn influenced by the Russian Constructivists and their obsession with abstraction, structures the construction behind shapes, very architectural. Can't post pictures because of a possible virus problem, but here's a site:
http://www.discovery.mala.bc.ca/web/martinja/supreme.htm
It's not the pop Memphis pomo style. Wasn't that considered "cool" in its time anyway?
I'm not that interested in basing my opinion on aesthetics, as beauty is always subjective. I'm more interested in the culture and the spontaneous urges that drive a certain scene in its direction. The music scene guys are hideous. Ever seen Har Mar Superstar, fat bald guy in tight white pants?
http://www.harmarsuperstar.com/
The music, though, is pure sex. Of course, ironically, the Berliners get away with it because they are simply the most gorgeous crowd I've seen in any city. Anyway, to me, fashion doesn't always have to be about looking good, it's about self expression. It's fine with me if someone wants to express themselves in BW or in Dior Homme. I won't diss either.
http://www.discovery.mala.bc.ca/web/martinja/supreme.htm
It's not the pop Memphis pomo style. Wasn't that considered "cool" in its time anyway?
I'm not that interested in basing my opinion on aesthetics, as beauty is always subjective. I'm more interested in the culture and the spontaneous urges that drive a certain scene in its direction. The music scene guys are hideous. Ever seen Har Mar Superstar, fat bald guy in tight white pants?
http://www.harmarsuperstar.com/
The music, though, is pure sex. Of course, ironically, the Berliners get away with it because they are simply the most gorgeous crowd I've seen in any city. Anyway, to me, fashion doesn't always have to be about looking good, it's about self expression. It's fine with me if someone wants to express themselves in BW or in Dior Homme. I won't diss either.
^ haha. it tickles me you mention har mar superstar. he went to my arts high school! his concentration was theater design -- go figure. 
i have never had the pleasure to see him perform in person, but i think he definately channels a random crazy midwest arty sect (rivals berlin i tell you!) i don't think it's so much about the irony but pure unbridled expression (what he channels, but i'm not sure how successfully these days)
btw. an ex directed the video 'power lunch'...
anways, i guess these clothes remind me of folk art in a way, and i don't think it is particularly hipsterish either. trust me, i've been around those folks too -- they won't bite. anyways, it doesn't remind me so much of east coast art college as it does crazy slightly dysfunctional kids (not in a bad way) coming from a small town and creating a world that is full, but raw and personal. if it's a genuine expression, why does it not have a place in fashion?
i agree with zazie that i would cite others, not bw, for 'bad' aesthetics and creating disingenuous fashion.
btw. faust, scott. i welcome you to come to mn and check out a REAL art scene.
i have never had the pleasure to see him perform in person, but i think he definately channels a random crazy midwest arty sect (rivals berlin i tell you!) i don't think it's so much about the irony but pure unbridled expression (what he channels, but i'm not sure how successfully these days) btw. an ex directed the video 'power lunch'...
anways, i guess these clothes remind me of folk art in a way, and i don't think it is particularly hipsterish either. trust me, i've been around those folks too -- they won't bite. anyways, it doesn't remind me so much of east coast art college as it does crazy slightly dysfunctional kids (not in a bad way) coming from a small town and creating a world that is full, but raw and personal. if it's a genuine expression, why does it not have a place in fashion?
i agree with zazie that i would cite others, not bw, for 'bad' aesthetics and creating disingenuous fashion.
btw. faust, scott. i welcome you to come to mn and check out a REAL art scene.
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Zazie said:
The only critisism about Berhnard & Co is that they've either descented to or started with the simple childish tacky clothes. What cuts and fabrics are you talking about when all I see in stores are t-shirts and sweatshirts from these guys? What cultural influences - kindergarten? I am all for designers referencing culture, be at Raf Simons or Ann Demeulemeester or Lieve van Gorp (RIP) - but maintaining a high level of quality, thought and aesthetics. Don't agree about aesthetics - hey, what can I do. You say beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I say go to an oculist. Can we at least agree that charging hundreds of dollars for a sweatshirt is an emperor's new clothes moment?
To me dressing is about expression. Fashion narrows that down and inevitably has to do with aesthetics, quality, and craftmanship.
I also don't know why you seem to assume that anyone who critisizes BW is some Glamour reading, Gucci buying bubblehead?
What I mean by lazy is this play with everyday 'lazy' garb like the sweatsuit and of course the overdone hoodies. I mean,really,how many of those can they do before it begins to run its course? And frankly its what's become the highlight of this style. Not very designed actually. It's very basic.
But I'm not saying I loathe this style,just that it's magic is wearing thin with me. And in my tailoring fantasies,I want to see something along those lines. Bernhard is a fantastic tailor and dressmaker....why is he spending so much time doing boring sweats?
But I'm not saying I loathe this style,just that it's magic is wearing thin with me. And in my tailoring fantasies,I want to see something along those lines. Bernhard is a fantastic tailor and dressmaker....why is he spending so much time doing boring sweats?
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Even in Bernhard's childish antics,he did do some great things. Back then though the kitsch had more substance...and the style was more tailored,of course. I think now it's more so the fact the he seems so drawn on the common Wal-Mart shopper's life...
He *sounds* sexy doesn't he? Anyways, BW will definitely suit him.One other question,I concur with Stitches about is....why the heck he's abandoned the handwork;the sweet top-stitched characters...the immaculate embroideries(as seen in his S/S 01 collection)...the handknits...and just the embellishments in general? Those are not there any longer. Instead they're mostly prints now.
The thing I always adored about Bernhard was his sense of bringing a sort of fantastical Bavarian cottage charm into each of his collections. If he really were to make that transition into that German electro culture of the 80's,wouldn't it all be a bit sharper...and again,more tailored? Seems he's more keen on hip-hop culture than anything in his recent deliverings.
The thing I always adored about Bernhard was his sense of bringing a sort of fantastical Bavarian cottage charm into each of his collections. If he really were to make that transition into that German electro culture of the 80's,wouldn't it all be a bit sharper...and again,more tailored? Seems he's more keen on hip-hop culture than anything in his recent deliverings.
