It’s Official: Stefano Pilati Will Leave Yves St. Laurent

[TianCouture]

Oh, great...Looks like we are having some fashion issues here...

 

[tarsha]

Today isn’t the first time we’ve heard a rumor suggesting that designer Hedi Slimane is going to take over the creative director’s chair at Yves Saint Laurent, but for some reason, the industry is now taking the prospect a little more seriously.
On Saturday, Women’s Wear Daily quoted an unnamed source in Paris as saying that Slimane, who was director of men’s design at YSL from 1996 to 2002, is primed to take over as YSL’s creative director when Stefano Pilati‘s contract with the company expires next month. The French fashion label hasn’t decided yet whether it will extend its contract with Pilati, but his tenure at the company has been plagued with consistent rumors that his days there are numbered.
As far as anyone can tell, though, Pilati is doing a good job and has been for years. PPR, the company that owns YSL, Gucci and Alexander McQueen, reported earlier this year that Pilati’s strong handbag and shoe designs helped YSL take a “giant step” in its profitability — and his clothing has been selling well since he took over the job from Tom Ford in 2004. Why the company would want to mess with a winning formula is a mystery to us.
What further complicates things is the fact that Slimane has never really done a women’s collection before. When he left YSL in 2002, he became the design director at Dior Homme and popularized the super skinny aesthetic that has dominated the menswear market ever since. That doesn’t mean he couldn’t do the job — he’s clearly a capable designer — we just think it’s strange that such a big brand would replace a successful women’s designer with an untested men’s suit expert.
But there you have it. People are talking, but we’ll wait on official word before we start buying into the idea.

styleite

 

[Spike413]

^ That last statement, about Slimane being untested in womenswear, is beyond strange. I mean, that was the case with Raf Simons at Jil Sander and the collection he showed today will likely be the talk of Milan fashion week.

Personally I'd love to see Slimane at YSL. I've never been able to fully embrace Pilati's work, there's always been something about it that keeps me at arms length. I've never felt he was a perfect fit. Slimane, while not an obvious choice, would be so exciting to see heading the house. If his women's collection looked or felt anything like the work he did in menswear for YSL, I'm fully on board.

 

[JuiceMajor]

I look forward to the Raf at Dior and Hedi at YSL face off!!! We need it. The new Chanel-Schiaparelli!

 

[kimair]

MILAN — It’s been an electrifying season of surprising fashion comebacks: First Jil Sander back to Jil Sander — and now Hedi Slimane poised to return to Yves Saint Laurent.

On the eve of Paris Fashion Week, which kicks off Wednesday, YSL will today announce the departure of its creative director Stefano Pilati, WWD has learned.

The development marks the end of a fruitful, if turbulent, tenure for Pilati, who succeeded Tom Ford as YSL’s chief designer in 2004. The fall-winter YSL show on March 5 in Paris will be his swan song.

Sources said men’s wear star Slimane, who pursued a photography career since exiting Dior Homme in 2007, is seen as the frontrunner to succeed Pilati, as reported. It would be a return engagement for the Paris-born designer, 43, who burst on to the fashion scene in the late Nineties with his modernist, androgynous men’s wear for YSL.

YSL and PPR have declined all comment on the future designer leadership at the French house. It is understood the company will remain mum on the subject until after the upcoming YSL show.

“We are all at Yves Saint Laurent grateful to Stefano for his important achievements in advancing the mission and success of this historic and treasured fashion house,” Paul Deneve, chief executive officer at YSL, told WWD.

“I join Paul Deneve and the house of Saint Laurent in thanking Stefano for his dedication and contribution to the story of Yves Saint Laurent. I personally wish him all the best,” added François-Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of PPR, parent of YSL and other luxury brands including Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney.

Pilati’s exit marks the end of a topsy-turvy, often challenging stint at YSL. While he earned acclaim for some of his collections, with his bulbous-and-belted debut show proving particularly influential, Pilati also took his share of lumps.

His shows were inconsistent — garnering raves one season, barbs the next — and he was at times maligned for making clothes that were lacking in color and modernity.

He was also dogged by replacement rumors throughout his tenure — with Slimane frequently touted as the heir apparent — and endured a frosty reception from the old-guard YSL camp, up to and including the founder. Asked about Pilati’s designs in 2005, Saint Laurent told WWD: “Some of what he does is good. Some of it is not so good.”

Former YSL boss Pierre Bergé made his disapproval plain by attending the fashion shows of other designers, particularly Slimane and Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, and trumpeting their talent in the media.

Bergé also excluded Pilati from important events, notably the opening gala for the blockbuster YSL retrospective exhibition at the Petit Palais in Paris in 2010. By contrast, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo Takada, Valentino Garavani, Alber Elbaz and Tisci were all invited to attend.

Yet Pilati was instrumental in establishing YSL as a go-to brand for handbags and shoes — sketching out hit styles like the “Muse” and “Downtown” bags and the “Tribute” shoe, a sexy platform sandal that continues to sell briskly five years after its introduction.

In fact, the YSL business demonstrated almost continuous improvement since Pilati arrived — even if well shy of the Gucci-esque rejuvenation miracle Ford once touted.

The company achieved breakeven while under Pilati’s creative watch, a feat reached without opening any new boutiques.

After acquiring YSL in 1999, Gucci Group immediately applied its then-mantra of direct control for production and distribution, terminating more than 150 licenses and establishing a global network of stores in top locations. That radical development strategy drove the company deeply into the red.

In 2003, operating losses ballooned to 76.4 million euros, or $94 million.

YSL reached breakeven in fiscal 2008, when revenues rose 18.8 percent to 263 million euros, or $328.7 million. At the time, management credited growing sales of high-margin leather goods, with tight cost controls playing a supporting role.

Pilati steps out of YSL on a business high note.

Earlier this month in reporting 2011 results, Pinault lauded YSL’s “giant step” forward in terms of profitability, and said growth prospects are “very good.” Full-year sales at YSL advanced 31.4 percent last year to 353.7 million euros, or $493.2 million, while operating income grew more than fourfold to 40.9 million euros, or $57 million. Dollar figures are converted from euros at average exchange rates for the periods in question.

PPR also provided the breakdown of YSL sales in 2011: leather goods accounted for 35 percent; footwear, 25 percent; ready-to-wear, 24 percent, and accessories and royalties, 16 percent.

Pilati told WWD he’s “incredibly proud of what I have accomplished with my teams over the past decade at Saint Laurent,” particularly the fashion house’s return to profitability.

“I exit the house with fierce conviction in all that we have achieved and deep gratitude to those who have supported me along the way,” he added. “I wish the maison Yves Saint Laurent and its new creative director the very best for the future.”

Pilati received strong reviews last month for the fall YSL men’s collection, in which he merged details of the leather motorcycle jacket with formal clothing and handsome wool outerwear.

Insiders describe Pilati as a tempestuous talent, but also a hands-on one, who sketched out most designs, selected the leathers used for the handbags, and who played an active role in helping to bring more commercial traction to the YSL business.

He is said to have formed a strong rapport with former YSL ceo Valerie Hermann, an executive renowned for product and merchandising prowess. The duo was able to increase sales density in its existing network, despite a too-dark design concept that was a holdover from the Ford era.

Hermann exited YSL last year to take up the management helm of Reed Krakoff in New York, and was succeeded by Deneve. Sources said Pilati has not meshed as well with Deneve, a reserved and methodical executive who had previously held management posts at Lanvin, Nina Ricci and Courrèges.

Pilati crafted a strong advertising image for YSL, employing iconic models including Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington, along with up-and-coming talents such as Arizona Muse. His designs also continue to enjoy a strong profile in magazine editorials.

The Milan-born designer emerged from fashion’s shadows in March 2000, when Ford named him women’s design director for YSL rtw. Before that, he worked in senior design and fabric development positions for a number of Italian design houses, including Miu Miu, Prada and Giorgio Armani.

When Ford exited as Gucci Group’s creative director in 2004, Pilati was seen as a key internal candidate to succeed Ford at either the Gucci or YSL brands. Lee Alexander McQueen, also part of Gucci Group, was courted for the YSL job, but declined it in order to concentrate on his signature fashion house.

Pilati showed his debut collection for YSL in October 2004.

“I hope that women will find easiness and joy and freedom to dress up and look chic in a natural way,” he told WWD at the time. “In the end, Saint Laurent was very easy to wear. It was never contrived. You can wear a little dress and feel very chic and Parisian because of the way you accessorize it or because of its proportions.”

Slimane’s expected comeback to YSL is likely to be greeted with excitement from editors and retailers.

Since exiting as Dior Homme’s creative director in 2007, Slimane has devoted himself to photography and relocated to Los Angeles. But he has often hinted he would return to the fashion fold.
The designer was spotted on Sunday in Paris shopping the famous Clignancourt flea market.

Although he has never designed a women’s collection, Slimane has long enjoyed the support of YSL’s old guard, including the likes of Bergé, Catherine Deneuve and Betty Catroux. During his Dior days, he did small quantities of his slim suits in small sizes for such female fans as Nicole Kidman and Linda Evangelista.

Slimane could not immediately be reached for comment. But in an interview last year, he told WWD that he was merely taking a pause from fashion.

“I had enough time to define my style precisely,” he said. “It would have been different if I had left fashion before having defined it. I also never intended to give up on design, but to take a necessary and healthy distance. I do still love design, and somehow have protected my passion for it. I’ll catch up with it in time.”

Slimane had a broad impact on men’s fashion, making skinny suits and tight, low-riding jeans the epitome of cool. Designer Karl Lagerfeld famously shed 60 pounds simply to be able to shimmy into Slimane’s spare, graphic threads, and rock stars from Mick Jagger to Pete Doherty have belted out tunes decked out in Dior Homme.

An art history graduate from the Ecole du Louvre, Slimane was initially hired at YSL as an assistant in fashion marketing and three years later, was promoted to designer, revving up the men’s department with leather trenchcoats, pinch-waisted suits and plunging shirts.

But when Gucci Group acquired YSL in 1999, Slimane balked at a hierarchy that had him reporting to Ford. In spring 2000, he resigned from YSL to pursue talks about a Gucci-backed signature collection. Prada Group also courted Slimane to take over Jil Sander, but he ultimately accepted an offer from Arnault to join in the rejuvenation of Dior.

wwd / february 25, 2012

 

[Flashbang]

Nooo I can't take anymore swansong for this season. I'm destroyed two days ago watching Raf's. Why all my favourites tumble out of nowhere

 

[Label Basher]

I'm sad. I wanted him to stay. Where will Stefano go now.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Oh my god just how many more designers do I have to see step down this season

 

[Starry]

After years' rumors, now Stefano is finally leaving YSL. I'm so sad about this. I loved most of his collections for YSL, and those memorable campaigns.

I could only wish him the very best for the future.

 

[Selfportraitgrl]

PARIS | Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:19am GMT

(Reuters) - French fashion brand Yves Saint Laurent is parting ways with its head designer Stefano Pilati, parent group PPR said on Monday, with his replacement to be announced after his last fashion show on March 5.

Pilati, who had been the creative head of the fashion house for the past seven years, is expected to be replaced by Hedi Slimane, ex-head of design at Dior menswear, French news agency Agence France Presse reported on Saturday citing sources close to the matter.

Pilati was already rumoured to be on his way out last autumn and replaced by Raf Simons, Jil Sander's designer, prompting YSL to issue a statement in September denying Pilati was leaving.

Under Pilati's stewardship and designs, particularly in high-margin leather goods, YSL returned to profitability in 2008 but was hit hard by the downturn of 2009.

Pilati has "been instrumental in the rebuilding and repositioning of an iconic French luxury brand," YSL said in a statement.

The brand's sales rose more than 31 percent last year to 353.7 million euros, above many close peers such as Hermes and Lanvin, helping operating profit swell more than fourfold to 41 million euros.

If Slimane is confirmed creative director of YSL, it would mark a comeback for the designer who used to head the French brand's menswear between 1997 and 2000 before it was acquired by PPR.

Slimane, 43, was designer at Christian Dior menswear between 2001 and 2007, making a name for himself with skinny cuts. In recent years he has devoted time to photography, publishing a retrospective book last year called "Anthology of a Decade."

Jil Sander said on Thursday that Belgian Simons would leave the fashion house at the end of February. On Friday, the brand's German eponymous founder confirmed that she was returning to the label she created 40 years ago.

The news reignited speculation that Simons could be on his way to joining France's Christian Dior, which has yet to announce a replacement for John Galliano more than a year after his departure. Dior parent LVMH on Thursday declined to comment about a possible announcement regarding Galliano's replacement.

-Reuters​

 

[liberty33r1b]

it's even more sad now that it's official

 

[ForChicSake]

terrible news

 

[Ives927]

Goodbye Stefano! Hello Hedi!

Maybe Stefano can start his own line? Or take over Lanvin if Alber ever leaves to takes over Chanel. Who knows, that could all happen tomorrow, hahaha.

 

[ogepma]

This is really sad news . I am officially on brake from fashion. I personally don't think he deserves this but something bigger might be coming for him. I would love to see him move to Dior or Armani where he can do couture. His edition soir collections were incredibly beautiful and haute couture-ish. Preferably, he can start his own line where he can have 100% creative freedom.

Despite the fact that some may disagree, Stefano did an amazing job at YSL. More people are wearing YSL now but he has still managed to keep it very exclusive. I bought a tunic from the mens fall 2010 collection and thats probably the most unique item in my wardrobe. Every time I wear it, people ask where I got it from. It was a novelty piece quite alright, but not many knew about it the same way people were crazy about the bulldog/birds of paradise prints at Givenchy. I like how he still made wearing YSL special. Now it makes so much sense why he was so blunt in his latest interview.

 

[PoppyAzura]

So sad this is true. He was really hitting his stride IMO

 

[softgrey]

i'm gonna say it again...
i think Pilati would be excellent at Dior...

 

[modela]

Couldn't they atleast have waited after his last show??? Geez , he is one of the most underappreciated designers , simply because he doesn't sell himself out!!!

 

[Marc10]

Creative Director Leaving YSL
By DAVID JOLLY

PARIS — Stefano Pilati is stepping down as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, the famed French label said Monday, the latest in a round of musical chairs that is turning the world of fashion upside down.

Mr. Pilati has been at the top of YSL, a unit of the luxury giant PPR, since 2004. He will have his final show for autumn-winter women’s wear on Monday in Paris, the company said, with a new creative director to be announced in “the coming weeks.”

His leaving had long been rumored. Hedi Slimane, a former men’s wear designer for YSL and Dior Homme who is currently working as a photographer, is thought by industry insiders to be the favored candidate to replace Mr. Pilati.

Designers like Mr. Pilati are the rock stars of the fashion world, paid enormous salaries for the excitement and marketing firepower they bring to luxury conglomerates. With the passage of giants like Yves Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, the companies that are the inheritors of Europe’s family fashion brands face the task of finding designers who can live up to their legendary predecessors.

Like its peers, YSL had a bumper year in 2011 as sales to Asia boomed. The brand’s revenue soared 31 percent from a year earlier, to €354 million, or $474 million, and pretax profit rose to €50 million, up 164 percent. Still, that was but a small fraction of PPR’s revenue of €12.2 billion and net income of €986 million.

“I think behind the change at YSL there is a desire at PPR to accelerate growth,” said Virginie Blin, a luxury and retailing sector analyst at AlphaValue in Paris. “They look at Dior Couture, which has sales of about €1 billion, and they see a similar potential for YSL.”

The shake-up atop YSL comes just days after the news that the Belgian designer Raf Simons will be leaving the Jil Sander fashion house after seven years as Ms. Sander returns to the top spot.

Mr. Simons, who presented his final Jil Sander show on Saturday, is now thought to be a candidate for the top job at Christian Dior, the position that was left empty last year after John Galliano left in disgrace. As recently as last autumn, Mr. Simons was rumored to be in line to replace Mr. Pilati at YSL.

Mr. Pilati had been “instrumental in the rebuilding and repositioning of an iconic French luxury brand,” YSL said. “Under Stefano’s guiding vision and artistic direction, the house has become a contemporary reference in high fashion.”

Siddhartha Shukla, a spokesman for YSL, said Mr. Pilati would not be available to comment. Claudia Mora, a spokeswoman for PPR, declined to comment on Mr. Pilati’s departure.

Suzy Menkes contributed reporting from Milan.

nytimes

 

[hautechild]

Ahh poor Stefano. At least the very least this puts an end to all the rumours which have dogged him for so long. People have been saying he'd be out at YSL for ages but it's still a shame, he was putting out some strong collections lately.

 

[mistress_f]

with mcqueen gone, galliano off the radar and now stefano leaving i don't know what to do with fashion anymore. I've always been a HUGE fan of his work at ysl and the last few seasons were simply great. this doesn't make sense to me at all. it's SO sad