Jacquemus S/S 2023 Paris

[Rigida]

does anyone has the full music list used in the show? and who is the sound designer for this show?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I don't mind the menswear. It's polished and clean. It stands out more than the womens, which looks messy. One thing that bothered me was the feathers or straw? that was attached to some of the looks as well as the knitwear, both looked vey arts and craftsy.

 

[LadyJunon]

What would be the point of improving his construction/execution/innovation of design, when the success of his brand is entirely based on cult of personality??? And unfortunately, his brand of shallow/hollow American mean girl persona is what the 15yo girls/gayz raised on SM finds worthy of inspiration. The 10th-rate fastfashion slop is secondary to his glamorous life of travel/celeb BFFs/material flexing. Any criticisms of his lack of talent/poor quality will be clapped back by him/his stans with haters jealous of his wealth/fame. It’s a generation of the shallowest/hollowest children where only fame/fortune matters, and he’s that mascot. You know, every time I look at his “collections”, I have to remind myself that this is not a fastfashion American brand, but a French label; Everything about his brand, from the sloppy, random designs ripped off of other greater version, to the JC Penney circa1993 of his menswear, to the mall/outlet x travel agency-sponsored presentations, to the “diverse” casting, screams of generic American midrange department-store brand/branding. This is far far far from a brand that needs to establish a reputation for quality construction and design integrity.

(LOL @the black train trailing, gathering all that nasty hay to remind you of toilette paper stuck on someone’s underwear, coming out of an outhouse. I’m sure to him/his stans, this brand of mess is sexy/fierce/fire…)

The worst thing is that almost every young designer these days is like this. Is just that Jacquemus is the most successful of them...

 

[LadyJunon]

does anyone has the full music list used in the show? and who is the sound designer for this show?

I believe Jacquemus' soundtracks are done by Clara 3000 a.k.a Clara Deshayes. She has also done soundtracks for Vêtements, Balenciaga and Sies Marjan.

 

[Lola701]

Maybe we should approach Jacquemus and everything like people would like for us to approach Celine by Hedi Slimane. Considering that Jacquemus’s success based on bags, branded items in fun colors and Nike collabs, we should concentrate on that.
The collection doesn’t matter given that he is successful. The runway doesn’t matter as people are buying this…

A complete mess with great production. I like the oversized tshirt with the froufrou skirts. Questionable construction and fabric choices…As usual.

 

[Mutterlein]

Maybe we should approach Jacquemus and everything like people would like for us to approach Celine by Hedi Slimane. Considering that Jacquemus’s success based on bags, branded items in fun colors and Nike collabs, we should concentrate on that.
The collection doesn’t matter given that he is successful. The runway doesn’t matter as people are buying this…

A complete mess with great production. I like the oversized tshirt with the froufrou skirts. Questionable construction and fabric choices…As usual.

This and Celine are apples and oranges.

Celine may be cheesy and repetitive but the clothes are properly done and there is integrity to them.

They are nice clothes even if that's all they are.

This collection fron Jacquemus has absolutely zero redeeming quality.

It's sh*t design, sh*t technique, sh*t fabrics. This is TRASH.

And Celine is selling actual clothes. I think Jacquemus is only selling bucket hats and bags.

 

[jeanclaude]

"Le disaster" is a more suitable title for this collection of rags.

I was expecting him to appear barechested at the end of the show...you know, just for bring all the attention out of the clothes.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It is better than his usual offerings so I will give him that. There isn’t as much pretentious adornment with over worked design ideas and isn’t as heavy handed, but it isn't to say they're not here. The construction is still shoddy, and most of the fabrics look like cheap paper.

I honestly still can’t see the point of it. He’s already going back to his archives, which seems strange but he has technically been in the business for about 10 years now so he does have a backlog of work to refer to. I just don’t think it is a strong enough body of work that really supports an “archive rummage” or reissuing of pieces that previously weren’t strong enough on their own. He is very much part of the fashion zeitgeist, although I don't think he's a good reflection of it.

What it does highlight is how little he has developed and how much he has also abandoned. Yes, the abandoning of a certain look brought commercial success, but bringing it into his current design ethos looks out of place. Here it all looks like some Frankenstein child of Nensi and JWA, the former is someone who probably looked at 'La Bomba' and went "YES!" and the latter is someone Jacquemus has referenced to the high heavens already. It's all just so vacuous.

 

[Lola701]

This and Celine are apples and oranges.

Celine may be cheesy and repetitive but the clothes are properly done and there is integrity to them.

They are nice clothes even if that's all they are.

This collection fron Jacquemus has absolutely zero redeeming quality.

It's sh*t design, sh*t technique, sh*t fabrics. This is TRASH.

And Celine is selling actual clothes. I think Jacquemus is only selling bucket hats and bags.

Don’t get me wrong. I know all of that…lol
I just wanted to approach this differently and laugh at the ridiculousness that have become the Celine threads.

Maybe Gaultier should invite Jacquemus to do Couture and so he will be exposed to well made clothes and good techniques. We cannot even compare this to Alexander Wang because Wang had some knowledge in cuts.
This is very Arts and Crafts like a graduation collection from a fashion school student.

Those circle skirts are a pure mystery.

 

[Mutterlein]

Don’t get me wrong. I know all of that…lol
I just wanted to approach this differently and laugh at the ridiculousness that have become the Celine threads.

Maybe Gaultier should invite Jacquemus to do Couture and so he will be exposed to well made clothes and good techniques. We cannot even compare this to Alexander Wang because Wang had some knowledge in cuts.
This is very Arts and Crafts like a graduation collection from a fashion school student.

Those circle skirts are a pure mystery.

Jacquemus makes Wang look like Nicholas Ghesquire.

 

[Urban Stylin]

I will say that while he's a mediocre designer, he's a top-tier showman. I just watched the livestream on Instagram and I was shaking with excitement, despite cringing at the lookbook on Vogue Runway.

Agreed, he always knows how to put up a show until you look at individual pieces and realize that its better quality Shein.

 

[eugenius]

I’m convinced that the only reason why people blew smoke up his posterior was because Rei used to show up at his shows. And if the almighty Rei blesses your show with a cameo appearance, then it must be good!

 

[Lola701]

I’m convinced that the only reason why people blew smoke up his posterior was because Rei used to show up at his shows. And if the almighty Rei blesses your show with a cameo appearance, then it must be good!

No it’s because of Loic Prigent and Mademoiselle Agnes. They are respected in the French fashion community and the moment they put a focus on him (at the time he only did cotton and boiled wool stuff…better finished I must say), he became the It guy in Paris. They loved his personality, he knew how to market himself and it worked for him…

But it’s funny how he framed that CDG connection and that’s maybe how the international press got involved. The guy was just in retail and one could believe he is coming from the school of Junya and others…

I used to be a real supporter of Simon but he seems to love being a designer rather than being a designer.

They tried to make Maxime Simoens happen before and it was kind of flop. He didn’t take the opportunity and accepted a position at Leonard (how random).

 

[eugenius]

^I agree.

 

[Mutterlein]

I’m convinced that the only reason why people blew smoke up his posterior was because Rei used to show up at his shows. And if the almighty Rei blesses your show with a cameo appearance, then it must be good!

I think that was definitely part of it. His whole origin story of working at DSM and being backed by Joffe is a good one.

And he's very good looking.

And he had a genuine freshness and charm across all his branding, especially the in film and on social media. It was fun, youthful, very French, and chic.

I admit that I had fallen for it.

But I just had a look at his early collections again, the ones that I liked before, and I have to wonder: what the hell was I thinking?

They're just as miserable as this but maybe less obviously so because he wasn't doing such body conscious silhouettes then.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think that was definitely part of it. His whole origin story of working at DSM and being backed by Joffe is a good one.

And he's very good looking.

And he had a genuine freshness and charm across all his branding, especially the in film and on social media. It was fun, youthful, very French, and chic.

I admit that I had fallen for it.

But I just had a look at his early collections again, the ones that I liked before, and I have to wonder: what the hell was I thinking?

They're just as miserable as this but maybe less obviously so because he wasn't doing such body conscious silhouettes then.

As much as I hate to admit it (being on this forum for a year and 2 days has shown me that I have very bad taste), that is very true.

That said, everything he did from his "La Reconstruction" show to his "La Collectionneuse" show (excluding the menswear, that can all burn in hell) will live in my heart forever.

Also I just noticed that №22 (the man in the red suit and Chewbacca hat at 3:57) accidentally does two rounds on the runway and appears a second time at 6:05.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

No it’s because of Loic Prigent and Mademoiselle Agnes. They are respected in the French fashion community and the moment they put a focus on him (at the time he only did cotton and boiled wool stuff…better finished I must say), he became the It guy in Paris. They loved his personality, he knew how to market himself and it worked for him…

But it’s funny how he framed that CDG connection and that’s maybe how the international press got involved. The guy was just in retail and one could believe he is coming from the school of Junya and others…

I used to be a real supporter of Simon but he seems to love being a designer rather than being a designer.

They tried to make Maxime Simoens happen before and it was kind of flop. He didn’t take the opportunity and accepted a position at Leonard (how random).

It is pretty notable with how much retail has influenced his design process and of course branding. The Dover Street aesthetic and personality certainly runs strongly through his veins, because after all you have to hustle hard in order to get people to buy stuff a lot of the times plus you would come across some interesting characters in those stores to help promote yourself and peddle your wares. Which of course, looks good in Loic's lens too...

The clothes themselves I can imagine looking great on mannequins and shop windows because they have that retail starchiness that works well on a plastic form as a way of holding their own shape, and they just slip on and off easily. The moment it is put on the body (and even hanging or just flat) the look of it all changes because of the weird "grip" they have.

I too supported him early on, because it was a confidence boost to myself to see someone else being pushed rather than the usual crop at the time, but my mood changed pretty quickly.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Seems even the internet is tired of the brand. Everyone seems to be in agreement that this collection isn't it

 

[LadyJunon]

I also think that one of the main elements to Jacquemus' quick rise was because of his "Les Santons de Provence" show, which was the hard switch from his sexless, geometric, tomboyish look he started with to the sunny, romantic, feminine look we know him for.

It was also his first show to be unanimously well-received by critics and customers. That show filled a void left by his peers of the late 00s/early 10s. While Jacquemus was lacking in technical skill, he made up for it by offering an alternative of idealistic prettiness to the edgy irony that was at its peak at the time.

Reasonably, he continued refining (using the term loosely) this look for the following four seasons, changing the look of his campaigns, adding shoes, introducing his iconic (also using the term loosely) "Chiquito" and "Bambino" bags, introducing a menswear line, staging far-flung shows and shifting to a see-now, buy-now model.

The main issue was that he became too focused on Jacquemus the brand, than Jacquemus the designer, something that he was nowhere near established enough for, and the cracks caused by that are starting to show.