Jacquemus F/W 2019.20 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[entten]

instantly reminded me a bit of y project and here and there even with some sprinkles of virgil. i liked his direction of the last two collections way much better.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

ZARA Official Website

 

[jeanclaude]

I feel numb seeing this collection. It´s not hideous, but it is not attractive either...it´s just clothes on a runway.

 

[Lola701]

ZARA Official Website

No, The Celine collection is later on the schedule.


I actually love this collection. I’m sure Simon is sometimes looking at TFS because suddenly, it seems like he has a better pattern maker. In terms of execution, it’s his most achieved yet. Everything looks well made.

He has finally manage to mix everything he has done so far with a right balance. The Jacquemus woman is sexy, French, sometimes naughty with a doss of naïveté. I really enjoy his journey as a designer.
There are so many great pieces there...

The cast is great, the girls are beautiful and the soundtrack was perfect: French, kinda cheesy but totally of the moment (MHD, PNL).

I think what I love about Simon is how French, and not necessarly Parisian, his aesthetic is.

Keep going Simon!

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Chic, solid, desirable, elaborated (for his level). Nothing much to complain here. The accessories are better than ever and I L O V E the boots... The styling is pretty basic, but right for his audience. All my hate goes to the shoes, this type of shoes is gonna be a thing next season? God... Why??

 

[helmutnotdead]

Mmm... Let me think. I can see: Lemaire, Marni, Loewe, Y Project and a lot of Céline. But where's Jacquemus?

He's a one trick pony. Next season maybe.

 

[orchidee]

Well at least it's more experimental than the last few he's done. But it just ends up looking like Céline lite. He needs to figure out what he wants this brand to be, because the good will he's racked up for being hot isn't going to last forever.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

?

He's a one trick pony. Next season maybe.

That's what we said last season.

 

[Lola701]

Well at least it's more experimental than the last few he's done. But it just ends up looking like Céline lite. He needs to figure out what he wants this brand to be, because the good will he's racked up for being hot isn't going to last forever.

That’s why I think his journey as a designer is quite interesting. And for me, everything lies in his technical capacities. I think he knows his woman since the beginning but due to his lack of techniques, he played with « la naïveté » from the start.

He is not an intellectual designer and he is not Jeremy Scott either.

The geometric forms of his earlier stuff was a way to cover his weaknesses.

He is very successfull but the trick is not to build an identity or design collections according to a commercial success.

But season after seasons, there’s a visual vocabulary that he is building.

There’s a very « Lambada » quality to his stuff. He loves the 80’s and his girls would totally fit that music video of Kaoma.

 

[helmutnotdead]

lol, I forgot something else: I can hear him saying f#ckkkkkk when he saw the Prada messy flower attack!

 

[jeanclaude]

lol, I forgot something else: I can hear him saying f#ckkkkkk when he saw the Prada messy flower attack!

I can hear both Miuccia and Jacquemus saying "yeeess" when they discovered this 1970s Bill Blass shirt:

1970's New Bill Blass Flower Covered Shirt or Jacket For Sale at 1stdibs

 

[dodencebt]

Ugh, this is so frustrating. I used to be a big fan of three-seasons-ago-Jacquemus and thought he was a promising talent, but he started losing me last year and I am still lost. This is infinitely better than his previous collection full of basics but there still isn't enough here to make me go "Oh wow, that's a beautiful piece that you can't get anywhere else".

 

[Marc10]

Gorgeous! Really love the colors. I think it's cool that he's moving away a bit from the flirty beach babe vibe from the last few collections and stepping into something a bit more elegant and layered. But it's still very him: womanly, confident, breezy. It's still remarkable how strong his vision is, the casting, the overall aesthetic, its so crystal clear.

 

[AnaD]

The only thing I really hate are the waist bags, everything else is fine. It looks good, but that could just be because someone else designed the majority of this collection.

 

[Nomar]

It's a solid collection and the use of colour is great but I wish he would get out of this 24/7 'French Summer Holiday' mode. We get it, you're from the South, not anywhere else, and this is what you're all about blah blah blah. At this point it honestly just feels like a gimmick.

His earlier collections were so much more exciting and interesting.

 

[donyan]

^ I agree . It’s not a bad collection , but everything I loved about Him in the beginning , the youthful freshness, the naive spirit , the sense of joy , has been replaced by more or less simple everyday basics for bourgeois ladies. It’s sort of the new Vanessa Bruno .

 

[softgrey]

I love the first look...
the back of that tunic dress is all open with one strap that wraps in a u holding it on...
it is soooooo sexy and so cool...