Jacquemus F/W 2020.21 Paris

[Machinegumm]

vogue.com

 

[SophiaVB]

Too beige. Sure the instathots will be all over it.

 

[Machinegumm]

vogue.com

 

[Lola701]

Jacquemus is playing a dangerous game. The brand is very popular, there’s a real following and a real clientele but he seems to be stuck.
I don’t know if he is afraid but that auto-pilot mode seems to be a commercial strategy. And it can be dangerous on a long-term...

It was just too beige. If you don’t have the talent of Riccardo, it’s difficult to do that much beige without it being boring...
If the quality and the craftmanship was extraordinary, it may have been better but it wasn’t.

The cast was fantastic and everybody looked great but the collection didn’t matched the expectations...And at this rate, people won’t have any expectations at all.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Major Instagram bait collection.

Great cast (hello Jarrod!)

 

[Salvatore]

Good cast, bad clothes.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Mmm... It did bring happy memories from my childhood watching Donna Karan and Michael Kors shows on FashionTV. But "L'année 97" was mainly same old, same old with some late 90's fodder (floating panels and grumets á la Prada, Helmut slits here and there, square toed heels and of course the 50 shades of beige color palette) which is already quite trendy. Not much to get excited about, maybe the accesories, which are the bright spot as usual.

He would do well to learn how to properly ruche because that dress on Gigi sat so weirdly on her body. The bias cut dresses were nothing to write home about either. The quality looks very in line with what insta-brands offer but I thought he was aiming higher...not so sure anymore.

The menswear is of course an afterthought (the best look was the one he wore to take his bow), that awful styling trick of letting printed boxers peek above the pants needs to die a quick death, the models were all very handsome though.

 

[bc collector]

This was just to be expected, the guy is cute and smart, but not exactly an endless fountain of creativity.
He made his own bed though: he acquired an early fame so fast that the expectations are now already past his technical skills. And when you earn your reputation on Instagram, you can only expect that soon people will be looking somewhere else.
He should have taken his time, grow more organically and spare us his menswear, for which he has absolutely nothing to say.

 

[Lola701]

This was just to be expected, the guy is cute and smart, but not exactly an endless fountain of creativity.
He made his own bed though: he acquired an early fame so fast that the expectations are now already past his technical skills. And when you earn your reputation on Instagram, you can only expect that soon people will be looking somewhere else.
He should have taken his time, grow more organically and spare us his menswear, for which he has absolutely nothing to say.

On the contrary...The problem with Jacquemus is that he acquired a fame late despite starting fashion very early.
He has the exact opposite problem of Alex Wang, who was successful early and developped his aesthetic from his success.

Jacquemus has been there for 10 years and while the brand grew organically (and the same for his creativity that has matured with his spring 2017), the big commercial success of his La Bomba collection kinda stopped his evolution and his collections since (except FW19) are like elevated beachwear.

This is maybe his worst collection because as said by many, it’s the wardrobe of any IG sexy girl who loves Kim Kardashian. He did spend some times with the Kardashian...

I don’t think that the girl who bought La Bomba will be into this and I don’t think that doing very « now clothes » is doing a service for his brand.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Oh Jacquemus. The only think I found great here is the cast. I have to give it to him.

But the clothes are boring, over styled, auto-piloted designed. I thought he went off for a season to find creativities but then we get this? Well, I guess he wants to make his business rely on Instagram now. The clothes are well cut but that's not something he hasn't been doing before. And please, socks and sandals should be stopped by now.

 

[Nomar]

I was recently at the Jacquemus 'La Braderie' archive sale in Paris and looking at some of the amazing clothes of his previous collections to now, it's just a little depressing. The magic is simply gone.

While this isn't a bad collection per se, it's so boring and pedestrian. This is just one of those shows where people care more about the cast and hype than the actual clothes.

 

[MulletProof]

is it even a men's collection if the amount of womenswear doubles the mens....

 

[dior_couture1245]

More stupid “break-the-Internet” crap.

Even the casting is who cares? Yeah...most everyone looks nice, but it’s so cliché.

Birgit Kos looks incredible, tho. Flawless.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I am glad I stayed home instead of attending the show. Great cast or not, it was the epitome of boredom.

 

[bc collector]

Jacquemus has been there for 10 years

He might have started his label in 2012, which is 8 years to me, but he did not really surface to the public attention before 2014, at least.
And, numbers aside, I was thinking about the career trajectory of people like Rick or Dries (well, that was another era, you might say), who have a much more substantial creative weight, and yet they still don't have but very niche accessories or perfume business...compare them to SPJ, and you get what I mean.
Everything is rushed these days and the fact the you bring up the case of Mr Wang makes yet another example of someone who killed himself and his business under the weight of undeserved hype.

 

[helmutnotdead]

who
the
f*ck
cares?

 

[helmutnotdead]

I mean, everyone is talking about Gigi playing with her hair. Or laetitia opening the show.
When the only insignificant details that people notice are the ones I’ve mentioned, it’s because you don’t have anything relevant to offer.

 

[Marc10]

is it even a men's collection if the amount of womenswear doubles the mens....

It's actually a coed show, also the womens F/W 20 collection.

 

[Lola701]

I was recently at the Jacquemus 'La Braderie' archive sale in Paris and looking at some of the amazing clothes of his previous collections to now, it's just a little depressing. The magic is simply gone.

While this isn't a bad collection per se, it's so boring and pedestrian. This is just one of those shows where people care more about the cast and hype than the actual clothes.

And I think the people who went to La Braderie wanted the sexy clothes of his post- La bomba era. For me Les Sentons de Provence and his ode to Couture were exceptional.
Now that he has this very popular audience, I hope he will elevate them to higher standard.

Aya Nakamura and a lot of rappers were at the show. He had a very diverse audience and that’s good.

The idea behind « L’année 1997 » wasn’t bad. He cut the linen curtains to make a dress for his mother that year...So, let’s make a whole collection based on linen. I think the Jacquemus of 2017 would have done something different with linen.

If sexy dressing is really his thing (he is good at it when he tries) then he should push it!

 

[MetroMelannie]

I was not expecting to be surprised but not that bored. The palette was so neutral at some point I had difficulties to actually see the clothes.

Feels like Jacquemus is in some loop right now were recent high commercial success dictates his designs, just like Rousteing did around 2014-15 and has since been on.

One of the difficulties when you are a young label is that you build your legacy as you’re doing new collections and don’t have that much archives to use as a starting point of each one.

However I find it alarming how fragile and somehow inexistent Jacquemus’ DNA/trademark appear to be.

This lack of solid legacy (due to major shifts in artistic direction from 2013 to 2016) produces collection like this.

Some jackets had unnecessary details while the overall womenswear seem unachieved and from the sketches of an actual collection. The overall looks saggy, dated. And if the materials look very cheap on picture I cannot imagine in real life.