Jil Sander by Vukmirovic f/w 03.04 (Milano)

[Lena]

Could be the best Milan V. have pulled out to date for the JilSander label.
Here some of my absolute faves from what I could put my hands on.

And a so-so review from the web.

Few people working in fashion are as aware of the intimate link between fashion and changes in musical taste as Vukmirovic, whose fall winter 2003 collection for Sander was all about posh punks and elegant rockers.
Powered by a punchy soundtrack that included a huge chunk of Led Zeppelins classic cut "Kashmir," the designer presented a collection of finely honed, creatively cut looks.
Staged in Sanders headquarters opposite Castello Sforzesco, the giant medieval castle that was the home to Milans ruling family, the Visconti, the show opened with a slew of asymmetrical kilts in black and silver that would flatter scores of women.
Straps, ties, belts and the odd safety pin pulled up or tied down most looks, making a look that was sexy yet never improbable. Above all, the designer edited himself well, trying just one trick with each look, like a turquoise robe pulled up just so by so webbing belt worn by Ethiopias Liya Kebede.
Vukmirovic also picked up on Milan’s current obsession with the Middle Ages, sending out leather jackets cut so high up the torso they looked like battle gear, and multi-layered high-heels and boots reminiscent of knights; armor.
For his finale, the designer wound forward his time machine, sending out leggy models like Dewi and Natalia with T-shirts reading "Eternal Love, "Bad Angel." Nothing revolutionary, but just right for todays mood.

 

[Abril]

the collection was great and you picked some of my favourites as well. that first coat is and i love that top in the middle picture.

click here to view the whole collection. it's worth it!!

 

[foxinthesnow]

I love M.V... I really liked Jil Sander before him and was scared of what Prada would do with the label and I don't think that there could have been a better result. This collection and the last one are just

But ehr, I could do without the tartan/plaid...

 

[xopher215]

I liked a lot of it, but I can't throw myself behind this line even yet.

First, I think Milan V. is very talented though his cuts are a bit mannish, but I digress... I do not see him "developing" here. Instead it seems he goes from idea to idea, season to season. It's all a bit disconcerting except for one thing... cuts that are too linear and mannish.

Also, I wish they'd change the name of the label. Dam*it, just do it! I feel so cheated because the label itself is a lie. This is not Jil Sander and it is still and will always be, since I just cannot shake it, an insult to her and the legacy and advent of complex design creating simple looks.

She channeled the rumblings of disaffected fashion forwards and the talents to do so belonged to her and to other designers such as Helmut Lang among others. There was edge, and I can't help to take my disaffection here out on Milan, whose "edge" has become the line of his mannish cuts. :|