Jil Sander S/S 2015 Milan

[Marc10]

It wasn't a flop but I never really got the true Jil Sander spirit from it. It felt like he was doing minimalism in a superficial way, like something out of a textbook or what a lot of NY designers do. I love the colour pallet tho.

 

[Scott]

for a debut i have to say he really surprised me. it's not stupendous and it's a little kitschy school-marm overload rather than simply being simple. and yes those culottes are oddly square and stiff to me. but i feel like he offered something to be hopeful for with a little respect and dignity the house deserves.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

There are great pieces in the collection but as total I'm not feeling it.

 

[TaylorBinque]

An okay debut collection but this is very safe. Hopefully, he will get comfortable at the house a bit more and try to amp it up a little next collection.

 

[tricotineacetat]

This is just his first collection, so there will probably be a lot improvement in the future...

The problem here is that it looks like a very basic idea of what Jil Sander is. While these types of products have always been the bread and butter at Sander, I find it very unnecessary to showcase it like this. For the show collection he should have worked more with the artistic cutting and texture, and forget all about the boyish sweater and boxy shirts, which quite frankly make this collection look very COS... and that is where such top-level minimalist label should not be any more. Jil always emphasized the more structured pieces, fabrics and innovative pattern making in her shows, and to me that is more the essence of Jil Sander, the subtle artistry, rather than a cute simple tennis shirt.

Thank you, this really nails it for me.

I think that both Raf Simons and Jil Sander herself were both wise enough to understand that the aesthetic of the house had by today triggered down into a lot of other brands and even lower pricepoints, thus making it vital to move on and re-define what minimalism/purism would mean in the 2000's. People do not get compelled into buying yet another basic (even if luxuriously finished) navy crew neck sweater or white shirt anymore and both designers consequently offered more specific, 'worked' garments, pushing the brand well further from it's Hanseatic roots into a much more graphic, modernist aesthetic.

While there is nothing substantially wrong with most of these outfits (except for the horrible leather socks), I think it's more suitable on a lower-tier pricepoint, such as COS.

 

[5 8 6]

Terrible! It's a shame that a once hugely influential brand like Jil Sander has become a sad parade of generic stuff that you can easily find, at a much reasonable price, at Cos.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Good collection, better than most, but nothing to rave about at all. The design team did better collections.

 

[donyan]

Thank you, this really nails it for me.

I think that both Raf Simons and Jil Sander herself were both wise enough to understand that the aesthetic of the house had by today triggered down into a lot of other brands and even lower pricepoints, thus making it vital to move on and re-define what minimalism/purism would mean in the 2000's. People do not get compelled into buying yet another basic (even if luxuriously finished) navy crew neck sweater or white shirt anymore and both designers consequently offered more specific, 'worked' garments, pushing the brand well further from it's Hanseatic roots into a much more graphic, modernist aesthetic.

While there is nothing substantially wrong with most of these outfits (except for the horrible leather socks), I think it's more suitable on a lower-tier pricepoint, such as COS.

completely agree. There is nothing here that feels inspired , or even desirable. This looks like a collection from someone who does 'Minimalism' as an exercise, without intuition or feeling, or even a clear idea of who he wants to dress, (unless it's a slightly excentric schoolgirl).
I actually really liked the Resort, so this comes as a surprise.

 

[inwhiterooms]

Unflattering especially on the bottom half..

 

[vandekamp]

completely agree. There is nothing here that feels inspired , or even desirable. This looks like a collection from someone who does 'Minimalism' as an exercise, without intuition or feeling, or even a clear idea of who he wants to dress, (unless it's a slightly excentric schoolgirl).
I actually really liked the Resort, so this comes as a surprise.

agree as well. it's sad to see something so uninspired and generic from a brand that was full of life. obviously there's room for improvement and growth in the future, but if this is what the future holds for JS, it'll be a joke.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

My problem here is that Paglialunga carried over too much of what Jil was doing which looked quite stale in my opinion. I was hoping for a more personal vision for the house.

This collection isn't bad but it's not going to win the new designer any acclaim. For all the good ideas there are just as many awkward ones. The fit seems awkward on a few pieces. Some of it is outright banal.

But I do know that Paglialunga is an amazing cutter and I bet there are details that can't be seen on the runway that we are missing. Based on what I've seen of his Vionnet in person I suspect there are some truly great pieces here.

It's a fine effort and I'm sure it will improve, it will have to.

And FYI before Paglialunga did a Vionnet he was a senior women's designer at Prada.

 

[anlabe32]

It's not minimalistic and cold enough. It actually looks quite cosy. And that doesn't mean nice.

 

[gazebo]

It looks like a thousand other collections. The vibe in recent years is minimal so they need to work extra hard to keep it JIL. It's too playful and as I said not distinct enough.

 

[donyan]

spot-on review on Style.com..I'm wondering if clients will bother buying this. Is is special enough to warrant the price?

 

[HeatherAnne]

^ Good point. I doubt it. I'm not even sure how well Jil herself sold in her last few seasons, seems to me I saw it everywhere for sale at like 50-70% off. And those seasons were a hell of a lot better than this, not even in the same league.

The review from style.com

Jil Sander Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear

• Tim Blanks
• September 20, 2014

Oh, God! "The coalescence of genders." Show-note hell strikes again. And all in the name of welcoming a new rider on the Jil Sander roundabout. Shame he couldn't stay on the horse.

Rodolfo Paglialunga made such a pleasant splash at Vionnet some seasons ago—enough that his appointment at Jil Sander, erstwhile temple of discipline and rigor in contemporary fashion, caused at least one head to scratch. Maybe that's why he was so insistent that a deep plunge into the archives had shaped this collection. But if it was precision that defined Jil Sander's work, that was exactly what was missing here. There were fit issues throughout. Clunk was probably the best word for the drop-crotch culottes with the out-of-reach pockets. Same with the apron/skirt wrapped over whatever was underneath it, meaning that there was odd bunching when what was underneath had an elasticized waistband.

Regarding that gender thing: The collection's muse was Annemarie Schwarzenbach, androgyne, addict, and obsession for the demimonde of the 1920s and '30s. She's also a perennial fashion favorite, most recently with Paula Gerbase of the cult 1205 label. Yes, there was a solid through-line to Sander's own work, but it felt like a seam that has been too thoroughly mined to merit such a literal revisit. And, given the most fleeting acquaintance with Paglialunga's own work, it didn't feel wholly natural. But he is clearly a local hero—the crowd cheered wildly. And the good news is this: The only way is up.

style.com