Jil Sander Mens S/S 2013 Milan

[Thefrenchy]

Review

Back to purism, pure and simple. Returning to her namesake brand after an eight-year absence, house founder Jil Sander swept aside the often experimental ways of her acclaimed successor Raf Simons (now the couturier at Christian Dior in Paris) and plied her signature minimalist tailoring. The collection was crisp, graphic and youthful - and the men's wear crowd issued a cheer when the shy German designer briefly emerged for a bow behind a scrim of white columns.

She opened her brisk show with a sleeveless navy frock coat over a white, short-sleeved nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: Plays on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty. Tailored jackets and macs were either trim and elongated, or abbreviated and flaring. Trousers came slim, cuffed and cropped well above the ankle, while low-slung board shorts were cut in suiting fabrics.
Sander spiked her pristine silhouettes with a generous mix of classic and vivid colors, from terrific, long-line tan suits spliced with white panels, to boxy garage jackets in a searing Yves Klein blue. There were prints, too: Polka dots tightly crowded onto double-breasted jackets with matching shirts, and Mondrian-esque stripes tracing cardigans.

Sander set the reset button with this show, and let the industry know that - 44 years after founding her label in Hamburg - she still has something to say.

- WWD.COM

 

[helmut.newton]

I'm not convinced by this, it lacks maturity and sophistication. A lot of it also looks very derivative, and the proportions are very Marni-esque.

Hopefully her Womenswear will be much stronger than this!

 

[Thefrenchy]

HQs -


WWD.COM

 

[Thefrenchy]

WWD.COM

 

[Thefrenchy]

WWD.COM

 

[Pradable]

Are necessary bigger HQs?

 

[Pradable]

Bigger HQs




vogue.it

 

[Pradable]

vogue.it

 

[Pradable]

vogue.it

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I like it. It's simple, unpretentious, and wearable. I loved the color palette and the youthfulness of this collection. I'm reminded of Graffiti from those knitted t-shirts. And those monochromatic red suits were incredible. Strangely enough I can relate to this more than I ever did with Raf.

 

[chloesaab]

great tailoring, it's a beautiful collection

 

[Morphe]

Lots of wearable and practical clothes. They're nice but no va-va-voom here.

 

[xdieselx]

I'm a bit disappointed and I'm sad to say that I am since I really wanted to like her comeback. I was expecting a bit more from her. The printed shirts are questionable. The color blocked cardigans are not as dynamic as Raf's. The trench coats and jackets are marvelous though.

 

[Scott]

you know a lot of it kind of reminds me of what she attempted in her +J collection for uniqlo. the only real difference i see in this is there is more use of colour and graphics than what we relate to jil sander the designer. and i think with the little time she's had to get this together,it's not such a terrible start and i can't be too critical. i can only hope the women's will be even better. i also hope as everything evolves she'll begin to employ some of her classic JS poetry in the shapes and silhouettes. i would love to see her bring back volume in menswear.

btw,it's interesting how kindred raf really is to jil just seeing his own line of work plus the work he delivered here as well. i mean you strip away the distinctive details and look at the clothes very purely,they have a very similar aesthetic.

 

[ogepma]

I love this!! I have to say I was a little worried that I would be underwhelmed by this but I love everything. The mac's and baggy shorts are great and the overall tailoring is exquisite. I am also a fan of the slightly weird prints and the styling. Very straight forward, wearable, elegant and unpretentious collection. I am very glad she is black!

 

[Naen]

btw,it's interesting how kindred raf really is to jil just seeing his own line of work plus the work he delivered here as well. i mean you strip away the distinctive details and look at the clothes very purely,they have a very similar aesthetic.

Same what popped into my mind after a very first glance.
I expected some rawer version maybe, but it's not that much of a significant change in terms of form.
I suppose those graphic t-shirts confuse me a bit.

 

[xdieselx]

^ Agree that the graphic t-shirts are a bit confusing. It's also too pedestrian. To be honest, it looks like something from Uniqlo's T-Shirt range (and not the +J one).


However, still glad that Jil's back. I have a soft spot for her. I really wish for commercial success for this collection and I think it will with the tailored pieces.

 

[mimirose]

Really love this collection! The tailoring is sublime although I'm not fond of the Prada-esque sloped shoulder silhouette. The prints are delightful as are the white and cream pieces. It's incredible to see Jil Sander back with her own line.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Amazing!

 

[Uemarasan]

Blows Raf Simons away right off the bat. I've already forgotten what he did for her label.