Jil Sander S/S 2026 Milan | the Fashion Spot

Jil Sander S/S 2026 Milan

Well, that wasn't bad at all! At least SB really gets what the brand's DNA is about, contrary to the awful tenure of the Meiers. I am much less convinced by the menswear, but the womenswear is great, except for a few misshaps like the flowery plastic tablecloth dress. For the rest, great tailoring, very beautiful palette, very bourgeois yet with a hint of sensual perversion. You can really see these clothes on elegant women in Milan, Paris, NY or Tokyo. It's quite surprising and disappointing that it's not the case for the menswear, I really struggle to get who would actually wear this. He should offer something more mature and true to form to his male clientele. I am very eager to see more of his work in the coming seasons, and am very glad that the JS aesthetic is finally back!
 
also why everyone are so scared to make daring shoes? that fabulous blue dress on Bodine paired with the most boring leatherette flat shoes??? absolutely criminal
 
It’s a nice debut. Better than I expected.
I think what I loved the most was the color palette that felt reassuring.

Opening with Guinevere was a great idea because from the start, there was a positive biais from me.

The womenswear was good when it was simple and effective and bad when he tried to experiment. I was less convinced by the menswear and given that the setting of the show allowed us to see the clothes in 360, some of the cuts were really weird on men.

Maybe what I liked less on the menswear was that the womenswear felt really directed to women and the menswear looked very young.

The bags were great and I liked the flat shoes on women. Less thrilled by the heels.

Now, I don’t know if the new generation is ready to go back to those kind of clothes at Jil Sander. There was something very of « today » in the amplitude of shapes the couple’s provided.

Nevertheless it’s a nice debut.
 
It looks 'flat' in many ways, not only because of the papery-stiff volumes on some of the clothes. There’s that minimalism-by-the-book flatness of all these solid-color contrasts and absence of texture that I don’t relate to at all.

I feel sorry for Rodolfo Paglialunga’s era not to be talked about at all in hindsight - It was better than the Meier’s and I prefer quite a few of his collections (Especially his FW’16 season) over this.
 
I feel sorry for Rodolfo Paglialunga’s era not to be talked about at all in hindsight - It was better than the Meier’s and I prefer quite a few of his collections (Especially his FW’16 season) over this.
He was better at Vionnet though.
Some of my most treasured dresses comes from his time there.
A designer who never really got to express his full potential.
 
This is the first time that I like a JS collection that has not been designed by Jil herself, at least since the RS years. Kudos to SB, he got it right, he got the mood, the silhouettes, the music right. The guy knows what he's doing and has been very respectful not only of Jil's history but also of the years under Raf, as it's obvious by the colour palette.
So, after all, it's not so impossible to make JS interesting again without looking at Prada (like Paglialunga) or Phoebe (the Meiers)...
 
I feel like he put Jil back on track. This debut feels in many ways like Raf's debut, a cleanser. The Meiers absolutely tarnished the brand and this feels closer to the original spirit.
There are some obvious clunkers in the line up, and like many said, the menswear is not up to the level it needs to be. Theres a missing elegance and attitude here, those hands put in the pockets of that very loose fabric imprint a more British mod feel into the look, it feels totally off.
With a purist and minimalist attitude the collection, you can't hide anything.
I for one am happy to see someone making an effort again at Jil and respecting its very much alive founder. I hope he will have the time and customers to sharpen his vision more, to work on the quality of the garments. His Jil needs to breathe even more. I hope he keeps showing in that space, without that hideous runway in there, but in its pure white form.
 
An outstanding debut. He understands the essence of the Jil Sander brand. I love the colour palette, which shifted between shocks of primary colour and more in-between hues. I am less convinced by the gestures of sensuality, like the cutouts at the bust, sequinned bra etc. Some of the cuts on the menswear are too tricky, and would perhaps work better for women. It's not perfect, but an excellent start. It is modern and forward looking in many ways, but at the same time, you can see a very stylish woman wearing this on the street right now. Bravo.

I don't find this to be very Raf at all. It's very Jil.
 
This show wasn't as horrible as I'd expected, but I still think the styling dragged everything down. It should have been much more focused and streamlined, with no gimmicks. Some of the pieces also look uncomfortable to wear, and that's something odd coming from a designer trying to appeal to active people.

That said, I remember the abomination of the Bally F/W 2025 collection, so I don't trust Bellotti at all, and I'm not convinced this show will be enough to make people interested in Jil Sander again either.
 
Phenomenal. As Raf would have said: Sublime!
It takes a VERY confident and special type of designer to make memorable pieces in all white (though it looks like bone white, not pure white).
This is the best Jil Sander has even looked since Raf left. SO young, so wearable.
I think most pieces can find a piece on anyones wardrobe. I hadnt seen recent collections, not even from this CD but damn, she is good.
I love the color palette, very springy but like a digital spring? a hyper spring?
Ugh love it.
 

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