Jil Sander S/S 2016 Milan

The art of making minimalist complicated..while there are some nice enough pieces here I get the feeling that this is a collection by somebody who doesn't get Jil Sander naturally but is trying to fit a bill. These garments are simple with complicated details and finally are neither clean and unfussy enough to appeal to the woman who would wear Jil Sander today nor strong and directional enough to appeal to a more fashion conscious customer. Shame really as I think he is a good designer- Jil Sander Navy is so much better because less forced- but he honestly is a missmatch for this collection
 
Ugh

Rodolfo tried too hard to follow Jil Sander's DNA but he failed, it does indeed look minimalist and clean, but way too basic. Raf managed to create amazing collections from 2005 to 2012 and was literally acclaimed, but Paglialunga seems uninspired and he arrived one year ago, this is the typical minimalist cliché, basic shapes, basic materials, some great details but its just in the middle of a clean, Raf-Jilish collection and something powerful enough to appear really fashionable and the shoes........ bring raf or jil back or prevent rodolfo from designing womenswear @ jil but it doesn't look Jil...
 
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He is so wrong! Jil Sander's clothes should never look complicated.
Raf understood that. His clothes (even the most complicated) had an ease, an airy elegance and were real.
You need to have a certain sensibility to design for Jil Sander.
IMO the Jil Sander spirit is at COS. Her collection for Uniqlo was a success because of it simplicity.

When your doing a bouffant sleeve jacket, it shows that you're desperate.
Maybe the should concentrate more on their second line.
 

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