Jonathan Anderson - Designer, Creative Director of JW Anderson & Christian Dior

[jeanclaude]

The problem is JW Anderson is a wrong fit for Dior. His avant-gardish casual style clashes with the classic sophistication of Dior.

In Loewe it worked because Loewe did not have a powerful defined image when he arrived...so he could totally mould the brand to his POV. But trying to change Dior in such abrupt way can be as catastrophic as hiring Christian Lacroix as CD for Calvin Klein...total opposite styles.

 

[PDFSD]

This is very New York transplant trying to give Carrie Bradshaw and failing miserably.

The skirt is not a catastrophe, just a bit flat and non event.
Raf had the best shoes under Dior.

the skirt is dior archive remake :-)

 

[PDFSD]

The problem is JW Anderson is a wrong fit for Dior. His avant-gardish casual style clashes with the classic sophistication of Dior.

In Loewe it worked because Loewe did not have a powerful defined image when he arrived...so he could totally mould the brand to his POV. But trying to change Dior in such abrupt way can be as catastrophic as hiring Christian Lacroix as CD for Calvin Klein...total opposite styles.

yes i feel he is not sharpening his vision but only applies his usual sauce to Dior and that sauce is from the kids menu , instead a michelin star one lol

i feel its like the valentino thing under Michelle , they forget the clients expectations and lifestyle needs to be matched at a minimum as some HC brands don't do well with hyper avant garde niche take like Chanel DIor Valentino all fall under RICH lady like non offensive BCBG , where the most avantgard is art that hangs on the wall from the 1900 s to 80´s that is Sotheby's approved.

 

[FashionPower]

Raf had the best shoes under Dior.

You sure about that?
I'm still getting haunted by these hideous embellished ballerina x Balenciaga speed Frankenstein clash...and the kitten heel x Balenciaga triple S? Hell no...
But I gotta give credit when credit is due, Raf was a precursor in chunky shoes / sneakers release, Demna definitely took advantage of it.

 

[reese06]

I actually don’t find that sneaker to be bad at all. But I’m also a person who likes a shoe that’s a bit “off” and stylized. I have numerous shoes from Demna and love a chunky brogue from Miuccia, so there’s that.

But yeah, that kitten heel is grotesque but I didn’t care too much for a lot of MGC’s heels. They were very matronly and basic. She was better at combat boots, booties and kitten heels imo.

I prefer Raf pushing things forward with what some may call grotesque or ugly to basic Dior ribbon sling backs

 

[LadyJunon]

I actually don’t find that sneaker to be bad at all. But I’m also a person who likes a shoe that’s a bit “off” and stylized. I have numerous shoes from Demna and love a chunky brogue from Miuccia, so there’s that.

But yeah, that kitten heel is grotesque but I didn’t care too much for a lot of MGC’s heels. They were very matronly and basic. She was better at combat boots, booties and kitten heels imo.

I prefer Raf pushing things forward with what some may call grotesque or ugly to basic Dior ribbon sling backs

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Those shoes were my fashion awakening, IDGAF.

 

[Lola701]

Things that RAF did great at Dior: bags, shoes, bar suits.
It’s really a pity that he never got the Dior woman. If it was more inviting, sensual, it would have been great.

I don’t wear my Dior by RAF heels a lot to preserve them but I’m almost mad to not have bought a lot of his stuff on sales a the time. The same for his Jil.

I think both Raf and MGC got inspired by Roger Vivier for those heels.

It’s heartbreaking to see how everything attached to Raf now evoke mediocrity to me.

 

[FashionPower]

Things that RAF did great at Dior: bags, shoes, bar suits.
I think both Raf and MGC got inspired by Roger Vivier for those heels.

Funnily enough, Gherardo Felloni, current Roger Vivier creative director, was actually the shoe design director under Raf at Dior. You can even get a glimpse of drama between the two in the "Dior & I" documentary, when Raf asks Gherardo if shoes for the couture debut show are gonna be comfortable cause he despise the look of a woman using handrail to go over a stair (LOL) and Gherardo replies, rolling back his eyes, with "as comfortable as a 12cm heel can be..." LOL
MGC also hired Gherardo for consultacy on shoes too, one that I remember vividly is the Dior x Roger Vivier collab for the FW22 collection.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I actually don’t find that sneaker to be bad at all. But I’m also a person who likes a shoe that’s a bit “off” and stylized. I have numerous shoes from Demna and love a chunky brogue from Miuccia, so there’s that.

But yeah, that kitten heel is grotesque but I didn’t care too much for a lot of MGC’s heels. They were very matronly and basic. She was better at combat boots, booties and kitten heels imo.

I prefer Raf pushing things forward with what some may call grotesque or ugly to basic Dior ribbon sling backs

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I can’t imagine any of these shoes elsewhere than in an editorial or in the frame work of 'street style' during fashion week… Funny that I say that as a gay man, but I don’t find any joy these days to look at these unreal torture devices other fashion people deem to be empowering - At Jil Sander, Raf had a few good, realistic shoes that were both edgy and comfortable, while these ones really only play the 'editorial' calling card…

 

[LadyJunon]

I can’t imagine any of these shoes elsewhere than in an editorial or in the frame work of 'street style' during fashion week… Funny that I say that as a gay man, but I don’t find any joy these days to look at these unreal torture devices other fashion people deem to be empowering - At Jil Sander, Raf had a few good, realistic shoes that were both edgy and comfortable, while these ones really only play the 'editorial' calling card…

To be fair, Jil Sander is rooted of offering chic practical clothes for working women, while Dior is primarily centered around exquisite beauty. In that same vein, the design of these shoes wouldn't have changed much if they had a 105mm heel instead of 120mm.

 

[reese06]

I can’t imagine any of these shoes elsewhere than in an editorial or in the frame work of 'street style' during fashion week… Funny that I say that as a gay man, but I don’t find any joy these days to look at these unreal torture devices other fashion people deem to be empowering - At Jil Sander, Raf had a few good, realistic shoes that were both edgy and comfortable, while these ones really only play the 'editorial' calling card…

Perhaps you can’t imagine it, but as someone who grew up in the South and now lives in New York, I don’t have to imagine, I see women in what you call “torture devices” constantly. Even more so back home, where women in their 40s, 50s, and 60s wear them daily because they like to dress up. My own 60-something mother still puts on sky high heels for church, the grocery store, anywhere.

And in NYC, just walk up Madison or through the Upper East Side, you’ll see them. Back when Jeffrey boutique (RIP) was in Meatpacking, women used to go shop dressed to the nines, heels included. It’s not just editorial fantasy; it’s a lived reality for a lot of women.

As for the “empowerment” angle, that line of thinking veers more into Maria Grazia’s Dior territory, her whole narrative of “empowering women” through comfort and daily wear. But I never suggested these shoes were empowering. Not every heel has to carry that weight. Sometimes they’re just about taste, style, and the joy of dressing up.

I was hesitant to chime in because, yes, I’m a gay man and don’t wear heels myself, but I can still share my lived experiences.

 

[tricotineacetat]

To be fair, Jil Sander is rooted of offering chic practical clothes for working women, while Dior is primarily centered around exquisite beauty. In that same vein, the design of these shoes wouldn't have changed much if they had a 105mm heel instead of 120mm.

Shoes with an 120mm arch aren’t really meant for walking and I don’t even think they provide more elegance than a shoe on a realistic 95mm - On top of the fact that those skinniest of stilettos (like the ones Antony Vaccarello insists on) really only look good on equally skinny women. The other problem I see is that a lot of footwear (especially but not only) french maisons are working with lasts that don‘t reflect the feet of today‘s women (often being too narrow in width), that‘s as if RTW clothes were to be fitted on a Stockman couture tailoring bust from the 1950ies, with a much shorter torso length but in particular a much, much smaller waist that women of that time had from wearing structured underwear.

Those kind of regards (much like the correct arch, heel balance, footbed and interior construction) make up the savoire faire of high class footwear design and I expect from the leading luxury goods maisons of today as a bare minimum to provide that, when so much effort is spend on creating a myth around their brand names…

 

[tricotineacetat]

Perhaps you can’t imagine it, but as someone who grew up in the South and now lives in New York, I don’t have to imagine, I see women in what you call “torture devices” constantly. Even more so back home, where women in their 40s, 50s, and 60s wear them daily because they like to dress up. My own 60-something mother still puts on sky high heels for church, the grocery store, anywhere.

And in NYC, just walk up Madison or through the Upper East Side, you’ll see them. Back when Jeffrey boutique (RIP) was in Meatpacking, women used to go shop dressed to the nines, heels included. It’s not just editorial fantasy; it’s a lived reality for a lot of women.

As for the “empowerment” angle, that line of thinking veers more into Maria Grazia’s Dior territory, her whole narrative of “empowering women” through comfort and daily wear. But I never suggested these shoes were empowering. Not every heel has to carry that weight. Sometimes they’re just about taste, style, and the joy of dressing up.

I was hesitant to chime in because, yes, I’m a gay man and don’t wear heels myself, but I can still share my lived experiences.

No surprise there, I guess what we have here are cultural differences, since nowhere in middle to northern Europe (where I come from) do I see women wearing those shoes other than from the taxi into a restaurant - The 85mm heels, yes, but when you have cobblestone streets, most women rightfully don’t deem stilettos as practical, when shoes are intended to carry you through the day with an active lifestyle - And by that I don’t mean being driven around town with a taxi or limosine - My New York friends live mostly in Brooklyn or the east village, most of them tell me they only ever wear flats.

 

[hamburgers]

Funnily enough, Gherardo Felloni, current Roger Vivier creative director, was actually the shoe design director under Raf at Dior.

Was he there the whole time? I thought Francesco Russo replaced him from the beginning of 2014 onward but maybe he worked under him.

Those metallic loafer heels from HC SS14 posted above feel like something he would have done with Pilati at YSL.

At Jil Sander, Raf had a few good, realistic shoes that were both edgy and comfortable, while these ones really only play the 'editorial' calling card…

Pieter Mulier was working on the heels at Jil Sander as his first foray into designing women’s and they were just as fabulous and painful as the Dior.

Statement heels are an emotional purchase just like any other statement fashion purchase. You know what you’re getting into and it’s more of a question of can I walk in these at all vs how far can I can walk. For practical heels you usually go to a dedicated footwear brand and get a neutral color there. I mean Anna wears her beige Manolo’s as much as her sunglasses at this point.

 

[FashionPower]

Another custom look on Alba Rohrwacher.
Basically Vodianova / Mia Goth menswear show top paired with pants this time.

 

[LadyJunon]

Another custom look on Alba Rohrwacher.
Basically Vodianova / Mia Goth menswear show top paired with pants this time.
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It's giving Bottega Veneta.

 

[marines]

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

I very much already miss M G C in Dior. God help us all from this monstrosity. I hope the sale and everything will go down and he will leave quicker than Sabato in Gucci.

Nothing works here. Fabric, design, nothing!

JW Anderson in my humble opinion is not talented enough to be in Dior. In the holy name of Maria Grazia just leave!!!

 

[Frederic01]

This gown is hideous. The fabric, the “bustle” at the back, the awkward sleeve length, and that ruching at the front. My goodness, what a disaster!

 

[jeanclaude]

Alba could improvise herself a gown like this one (using her Hotel room curtains and a pillow); and I am sure nobody would notice the difference!!

God, that blasphemy of a dress came from Dior Ateliers??? It´s beyond atrocious!! Did they avoid turning on the lights of the atelier when creating it??