True, but I have to say with the growing interest in PreFall and Cruise collections, it feels a bit reductive to add additional commercial collections.
I remember back when in the early 2010's when Gucci under Frida had these very watered down / ultra commercial precollections and that was exactly what you were getting in the store.
Even Versace under Capri had super commercial and basic precollections and then in the stores you could find only heritage pieces.
Nowadays you have precollection shows that are PR stunts featuring very avant garde and flamboyant pieces and then none of them is displayed in the store.
But you have Karl to blame for that.
He is the one who made it a thing to hold shows for his pre-collections at Chanel. And it was his right because he had total creative freedom and the best working conditions.
Precollections used to be about updated versions of best sellers from previous seasons or special capsule collections.
I know it’s a controversial topic but I don’t mind seeing crazy pieces on the runway that are only going to be produced through pre-orders. Designers also have to express themselves. I don’t want all the designers to be like Frida either…
When you have 100 stores, which store is going to be blessed with having those pieces in display? Even more today, there are salons where those pieces are shown. The mass doesn’t have access to those salons…
I have more issue when brands do very commercial stuff and never produce them. That was my issue with Prada for a long long time and it’s still my issue today when people are doing it.
But runway collections have always had commercial collections.
Some brands have different system. They have very huge main collections that they got to sell over a whole season.
A runway show is just a window, an expression of a moment. The commercial reality has to respond to a certain form of pragmatism. A designer can show a collection of dresses and coats on the runway but in stores, the logic is wardrobe-focused. So you need to display jeans and tshirts that has to fit in that narrative.
Im surprised people thought deltina wasnt lying through her teeth. She doesnt have that panicked pained look permanently on her face bc shes competent.
Im all about body language and face cues so her expression would have me asking her if everything is ok ? Id be sitting there uncomfortable bc of her microexpressions.
All she knows how to do is pull out the quality to increase margins. AKA what anyone can do. People from Nebraska can do that. You dont even need to go to college for that strategy. Shes so incredibly low rent.
I mean, she talked about quality, she didn’t talked necessarily talked about design…
Dior, even during the MGC era never had big quality issues. They had ethical issues and those will probably never go away but that’s another conversation.