Jonathan Anderson - Designer, Creative Director of JW Anderson & Christian Dior | Page 65 | the Fashion Spot

Jonathan Anderson - Designer, Creative Director of JW Anderson & Christian Dior

Where’s the Dior in all of JW’s attempts?

Also loathe the Ariana archives. Great in theory but they don’t actually fit her so she looks like she’s a child playing dress up in her mums couture closet. It’s not a great look. Even with temporary alterations that can be undone it looks so silly. One’s style can’t be defined by archive pulls. It’s fashion trophy hunting, and it’s sad to witness.
 
but what even is that collection? is it Pre-Fall? Or a capsule or what? Looks so random!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that must be the commercial lookbook of the runway show collection. Every brand does that now, they have dedicated design team who is in charge of making more commercial (hence basic and banal) offerings taking the fashion show as inspiration. Hence, a more wearable version of specific fashion show ensembles.
 
Could also be resort so there’s continuity in-store with the first men’s delivery. It wouldn’t look out of place if it shared the runway a la Prada shows in the in the mid 10’s.

Speaking of resort there are location scouts in LA for a potential resort show on May 15 per Lauren Sherman at Puck
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that must be the commercial lookbook of the runway show collection. Every brand does that now, they have dedicated design team who is in charge of making more commercial (hence basic and banal) offerings taking the fashion show as inspiration. Hence, a more wearable version of specific fashion show ensembles.
Every brand have always done that. Mostly for internal use or buyers.
It only becomes known because of the growing interest in fashion.
 
Someone correct me but these some of these new looks werent on the runway? Jennifer Lawrence’s PR team must have gotten on Dior. That dress with the loops is madness. Natalies dress is like a figure skater proportion.

Tbh if i was an A List actress and they handed me an ugly dior id say you better give me a jennifer lawrence option!
 
Every brand have always done that. Mostly for internal use or buyers.
It only becomes known because of the growing interest in fashion.
True, but I have to say with the growing interest in PreFall and Cruise collections, it feels a bit reductive to add additional commercial collections.
I remember back when in the early 2010's when Gucci under Frida had these very watered down / ultra commercial precollections and that was exactly what you were getting in the store.
Even Versace under Capri had super commercial and basic precollections and then in the stores you could find only heritage pieces.
Nowadays you have precollection shows that are PR stunts featuring very avant garde and flamboyant pieces and then none of them is displayed in the store.
 
Im surprised people thought deltina wasnt lying through her teeth. She doesnt have that panicked pained look permanently on her face bc shes competent.

Im all about body language and face cues so her expression would have me asking her if everything is ok ? Id be sitting there uncomfortable bc of her microexpressions.

All she knows how to do is pull out the quality to increase margins. AKA what anyone can do. People from Nebraska can do that. You dont even need to go to college for that strategy. Shes so incredibly low rent.
 
Everybody in fashion seems to think it's enough to just throw random, sellable merchandise out to the public in hopes that some of it will relate to a customer - What I don't get from any of these recent debuts in particular is a sense of clarity of vision or intent - And in that department, Anderson's Dior ranks pretty high on the list.
 
True, but I have to say with the growing interest in PreFall and Cruise collections, it feels a bit reductive to add additional commercial collections.
I remember back when in the early 2010's when Gucci under Frida had these very watered down / ultra commercial precollections and that was exactly what you were getting in the store.
Even Versace under Capri had super commercial and basic precollections and then in the stores you could find only heritage pieces.
Nowadays you have precollection shows that are PR stunts featuring very avant garde and flamboyant pieces and then none of them is displayed in the store.
But you have Karl to blame for that.
He is the one who made it a thing to hold shows for his pre-collections at Chanel. And it was his right because he had total creative freedom and the best working conditions.

Precollections used to be about updated versions of best sellers from previous seasons or special capsule collections.

I know it’s a controversial topic but I don’t mind seeing crazy pieces on the runway that are only going to be produced through pre-orders. Designers also have to express themselves. I don’t want all the designers to be like Frida either…
When you have 100 stores, which store is going to be blessed with having those pieces in display? Even more today, there are salons where those pieces are shown. The mass doesn’t have access to those salons…

I have more issue when brands do very commercial stuff and never produce them. That was my issue with Prada for a long long time and it’s still my issue today when people are doing it.

But runway collections have always had commercial collections.
Some brands have different system. They have very huge main collections that they got to sell over a whole season.

A runway show is just a window, an expression of a moment. The commercial reality has to respond to a certain form of pragmatism. A designer can show a collection of dresses and coats on the runway but in stores, the logic is wardrobe-focused. So you need to display jeans and tshirts that has to fit in that narrative.
Im surprised people thought deltina wasnt lying through her teeth. She doesnt have that panicked pained look permanently on her face bc shes competent.

Im all about body language and face cues so her expression would have me asking her if everything is ok ? Id be sitting there uncomfortable bc of her microexpressions.

All she knows how to do is pull out the quality to increase margins. AKA what anyone can do. People from Nebraska can do that. You dont even need to go to college for that strategy. Shes so incredibly low rent.
I mean, she talked about quality, she didn’t talked necessarily talked about design…
Dior, even during the MGC era never had big quality issues. They had ethical issues and those will probably never go away but that’s another conversation.
 

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