Kenzo Menswear F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[donyan]

I love Nigo's work for his own line but this looks like a bunch of stuff with Logos.. loads of product without any direction or point of view.. It will sell, which was the aim I suppose

 

[THD96]

It's not bad, But it's not good either. I was expecting something more aggressive with logos everywhere. The knitwear is decent and the denim is good (he knows his denim).

That being said this collection is still bad because it's just so passé, full of French cliché, beret on majority of looks made them look so dated (I'm surprised to see that no models is carrying a baguette or croissants). Even Isabel Marant is not that cliché. He really need a good stylist to help him edit and inject some modernity into his clothes.

A lot of basic here that no doubt will speak with the Kenzo clients. I love FOB Kenzo but I think with Nigo they will go to the same crowds as Lacoste instead of the fashion focus crowds of Felipe.

 

[Lola701]

I really liked it! I liked the spirit, the honesty, sometimes how dated some looks looked but above all, I like how Japanese it looks. And it’s so fresh for Kenzo!
It’s real, practical RTW in the contemporary approach of Kenzo and I think this collection is the step in the right direction.

I’ve never been a fan of doing interesting things on the runway to sell basic logo sweaters and jeans. I prefer this idea of elevating the existing base and Nigo make sense for it.

Japanese loves to play on archetypes. It’s either American workwear/sportswear, English aristocracy or punks and here is the beret, the old bourgeois…etc.
A three buttons checked suit will not probably look good on a 40 years old but it looks cool on the runway. I’m sure some people in Japan or Korea will rock it in a fabulous way.

I really like it. There are some mistakes and sometimes it’s maybe too timid but this is good. I would rather see my nephews in the new Kenzo than craving about Dior by Kim Jones. At least it has more personality.

I hope the creative direction will be strong enough to elevate it. Good stores designs, campaigns, merchandising will be crucial. But I think the name Nigo will open the doors to DSM pr Le Bon Marche to Kenzo.

 

[Norden]

First collection this season where I want almost everything! It’s good! I don’t know why, but it reminds me of old Marni.

 

[donyan]

I really liked it! I liked the spirit, the honesty, sometimes how dated some looks looked but above all, I like how Japanese it looks. And it’s so fresh for Kenzo!
It’s real, practical RTW in the contemporary approach of Kenzo and I think this collection is the step in the right direction.

I’ve never been a fan of doing interesting things on the runway to sell basic logo sweaters and jeans. I prefer this idea of elevating the existing base and Nigo make sense for it.

Japanese loves to play on archetypes. It’s either American workwear/sportswear, English aristocracy or punks and here is the beret, the old bourgeois…etc.
A three buttons checked suit will not probably look good on a 40 years old but it looks cool on the runway. I’m sure some people in Japan or Korea will rock it in a fabulous way.

I really like it. There are some mistakes and sometimes it’s maybe too timid but this is good. I would rather see my nephews in the new Kenzo than craving about Dior by Kim Jones. At least it has more personality.

I hope the creative direction will be strong enough to elevate it. Good stores designs, campaigns, merchandising will be crucial. But I think the name Nigo will open the doors to DSM pr Le Bon Marche to Kenzo.

I actually agree completely with this. I was a little disappointed by how merchandised this looks but I completely agree with your assessment - there's an honesty here, and although is doesn't excite me the lack of cynicism is refreshing.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

A lot of it really works for me!

 

[perfect blue]

Excited to see what else he does.

 

[jeanclaude]

Cacharel is back!!! Wait, no...this is supposed to be Kenzo...

 

[YohjiAddict]

Very Tommy Hilfiger or something in that price range, where you need all the help styling can bring to try and spice it up. In a way it’s a success because that’s exactly the niche that the suits are after…but it just doesn’t speak to me. There are okay moments but also quite a few looks that are very “hipster from ‘07 that won’t shut up about Wes Anderson”.

It was very fun seeing the star studded front-row filled with rappers and realizing that, with the exception of Tyler, none would ever wear anything like this.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Gucci or Kenzo?

 

[Nomar]

The suiting is obviously the highlight here while he knitwear and prints are mostly downright ugly. The headpieces are also just gimmicky and I could do without.

 

[Jacque Marcel]

This looks very Paul Smith to me. Are there any signature Kenzo looks?