Kim Jones - Designer, Creative Director of Dior Men

What Does Fashion Smell Like? Kim Jones on His First Fendi Fragrance​

BY ARDEN FANNING ANDREWS
May 22, 2024
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Nikolai von Bismarck

“I like it when you’re in a public space and someone asks you what you’re wearing,” Kim Jones enthuses when I ask him about test-driving his first Fendi fragrance and the response the house’s artistic director of couture and womenswear has clocked so far. “You know that scent is popular. I’ve had that in restaurants, at events, in the office…everywhere!
“I’ve had a lot of questions and reactions when I wear Prima Terra—a lot of people have been asking me what I’m wearing, but I couldn’t reveal it,” he continues, naming his fragrance that launches next month in a suite of seven scents made for seven standout Fendi personalities. “Now they’ll know when they see it.”
This family of fragrances bottles the Roman maison’s biggest personalities via a trio of noses—Quentin Bisch, Fanny Bal, and Anne Flipo—who worked with Fendi’s trio of artistic directors, Jones, Silvia Venturini Fendi (accessories and menswear), and Delfina Delettrez Fendi (jewelry). Jones’s Prima Terra scent is inspired by the British designer’s formative years in Africa, for example, with earthy notes like rainy soil and oak moss that Bisch helped spin into a liquid savannah.

When I ask how Jones collaborated with the rest of the team, he mentions that the conversation started with the different generations of Fendi and then moved to the chosen member of each person’s family. “Each fragrance represents the figure within the group and their context,” he says of Delettrez Fendi’s twins, Tazio and Dardo Vascellari Delettrez Fendi, inspiring La Baguette (the scent, not the iconic bag) with notes of bread, butter, and sugar, or the notes of apricot and patchouli in Anna Fendi’s Dolce Bacio designed to evoke a kiss from her mother, Adele Casagrande Fendi, the house’s matriarch. “We love the idea of representing personalities in a bottle,” says Jones.


FENDI Fragrances_Range Bottle Visuals_02.jpg

The Roman maison turns 100 next year, a pillar of longevity in the industry, and Jones is maintaining his own life-enhancing rituals. “I spend a lot of time taking care of myself,” he says. “I love facial massages, I love to meditate, walk, think, and be outside immersed in nature, which is probably why my fragrance is so related to nature. Nature is what calls me the most at present.”

And then there’s always sleep. “Sleep is the key to everything—I sound boring when I talk about it, but I love sleeping!” Jones admits. I remind him of a moment I loved in his 2022 conversation with Vogue’s wonderful editor at large Hamish Bowles when he declared he “can’t sleep in a mess” and prefers a clean space. “I have to have my own bedding no matter where I am in the world so that I feel like I’m getting into my own bed,” he reveals, noting that he, too, is into night bathing. “I always have to clean and wash myself before I go to sleep, and I try to be in bed at the same time every night. It doesn’t always work, but I try.”

Rest and care build a solid foundation for creativity, after all, and Jones agrees that in 2024 the worlds of wellness, beauty, and fashion are more intertwined than ever. “Even more so today, people are keen on exploring every sense,” he says. “From scent to cloth, everything has to be more hand-in-hand.” And atmosphere and materials were considered, like the refillable glass bottle with curves of Roman architecture that houses Prima Terra now. Even without the flashy brass and iconic FF logo, though, it held a power that others noticed: “Delfina likes my fragrance, and when we received the samples, she took my bottles,” Jones says. A “very special bond” exists between the two creative directors, he says. “I found it funny.”

Fendi Fragrances will be available in Fendi boutiques and at fendi.com from June 20, 2024.
VOGUE RUNWAY
 
“Delettrez Fendi’s twins, Tazio and Dardo Vascellari Delettrez Fendi, inspiring La Baguette (the scent, not the iconic bag) with notes of bread, butter, and sugar, or the notes of apricot and patchouli in Anna Fendi’s Dolce Bacio designed to evoke a kiss from her mother, Adele Casagrande Fendi, the house’s matriarch. “We love the idea of representing personalities in a bottle,” says Jones."
personally it creeps me out to smell like 6 year-old twins or a kiss of a more than 45 years deceased woman. eek. The design of the bottle? it could be anything at my local discounter.
 
What a boring person.

“I love facial massages, I love to meditate, walk, think, and be outside immersed in nature, which is probably why my fragrance is so related to nature. Nature is what calls me the most at present.”

“Sleep is the key to everything—I sound boring when I talk about it, but I love sleeping!”

“I always have to clean and wash myself before I go to sleep, and I try to be in bed at the same time every night. It doesn’t always work, but I try.”

You have the opportunity of a lifetime to lead multiple luxury houses, create a dream, and this is it. No personality, no world building, no creativity, just nothing. I hope he's gone.
 
It’s really sad that only a small minority of designers these days seem to understand the concept of selling a dream. The dream doesn’t even have to be very big!!!
That might explain why Jacquemus is doing extremly well despite offering lackluster products. He's one of the few designers of this generation that dares tp propose something idealistic and aspirational rather than the usual cynical allegories.
 
@LadyJunon Yeah, I agree with that! He's presenting some sort of narrative... Personally, I'm a bit disconcerted by how much I find the looks/editorials/etc in vintage magazines lately to be much more "inspirational" than anything modern.
 
I don’t know If should trust Fendi when it comes to fragrances.
They have had so many discontinued fragrances that I can’t count on them. I loved Palazzo…

Matter of fact, the Bottle of Palazzo would have been a nice base to go from.

And as usual from Kim Jones, nothing feels genuine. Everything seems soulless. I don’t think he has a connection to Fendi, to the work of Karl, to the city of Rome.

I find his concepts uninspiring. There’s no story telling around that. Maybe to base the collection around the city of Rome would have been more clever.

Very bland. I take Loewe fragrances before blinking at Fendi.
 
The issue I have with Kim Jones' Dior and Fendi is that there arn't any redeemable qualities to his tenure. Normally, when a designer lacks in technical skills, they make up for it in creating a design vision and vice-versa.

However, Kim doesn't have either. He doesn't seem to be capable of coming up with an interesting design concept, so he pulls from elsewhere. At Dior, his collections are supported by numerous collaborations, while at Fendi, he just bases his collection off of Lagerfeld's designs from the 90s and 00s.

This lack of vision is worsened by his lack of capability of thinking in 3d. His tailoring skills suck so he's dependent on a very certain silhouette. Everything is oversized and boxy at Dior, while Fendi is mostly a range of jersey column dresses puctuated by shapeless coats and jackets.
 
New CEO at Fendi:
Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou Named Fendi CEO
He succeeds Serge Brunschwig, who will be taking on new responsibilities within the LVMH Group, WWD has learned.

By LUISA ZARGANI, MILES SOCHA
MAY 27, 2024, 10:17AM


MILAN — After six years as chief executive officer of Fendi, Serge Brunschwig will be taking on new responsibilities within the LVMH Group, WWD has learned.

Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou has been appointed CEO of Fendi, effective June 1, in addition to his role as managing director of LVMH Fashion Group.

Brunschwig’s next steps will be revealed in the near future.

Angeloglou became managing director of LVMH Fashion Group in March overseeing Fendi, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Pucci, Stella McCartney, Patou and Off-White.
LVMH Shakes Up Fendi C-suite
Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou has been named CEO of the Italian luxury brand, effective Saturday, succeeding Serge Brunschwig, who will stay on within parent group LVMH.

By LUISA ZARGANI
MAY 27, 2024, 12:36PM


MILAN – As it gears up to celebrate its 100th anniversary next year, Fendi is undergoing a changing of the guard in its C-suite.

Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou has been appointed chief executive officer of the Italian luxury company, effective Saturday, in addition to his role as managing director of LVMH Fashion Group.

He will succeed Serge Brunschwig, who was named chairman and CEO of Fendi in February 2018.

An internal note obtained by WWD stated that Brunschwig will be taking on new responsibilities within the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Group and that his next steps will be revealed in the near future.

Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, thanked Brunschwig for his contribution “as he has accompanied Fendi to a significant level of growth since 2018.”

Sidney Toledano, adviser to Arnault, traveled to Fendi’s headquarters in Rome to make the announcement and praised Brunschwig’s work in developing the luxury brand’s business.

With the management move, LVMH is again rewarding a loyal and talented internal executive as Angeloglou had previously been executive vice president, strategic missions, at Louis Vuitton from 2022 and a key builder of that brand’s menswear business.

In March he was tapped by Michael Burke, chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, to become managing director, taking over direct responsibility for Fendi, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Pucci, Stella McCartney, Patou and Off-White, while LVMH Fashion Group’s largest and fastest-growing properties, Celine and Loewe, fall directly under Burke.

Before joining Vuitton in 2019, initially as strategic missions director for fashion and leather goods, Angeloglou was global brand president of L’Oréal Paris.

At Vuitton he was handed responsibility for its men’s division in 2020, under the late creative director Virgil Abloh. As reported, under Burke’s guidance Angeloglou built the men’s business up to 5 billion euros, market sources estimate.

Angeloglou took on increasing responsibilities at Vuitton as an executive vice president, also adding women’s accessories, digital innovation, visual merchandising and communication to his remit.

Prior to steering L’Oréal Paris, Angeloglou for three years held the position of general manager of L’Oréal’s Consumer Products Division in North Asia and for four years oversaw that division in Brazil, according to his LinkedIn profile.

Angeloglou was also general manager of Lascad in Paris and global vice president of L’Oréal Paris skin care. He joined L’Oréal in 1996, starting as a product manager in Italy and then France.

Brunschwig, who succeeded Pietro Beccari at Fendi, was previously Dior Homme’s chairman and CEO from 2015. He’s recognized for his extensive experience in luxury retail, operations and brand management, building Dior Homme’s retail network and developing its ready-to-wear and accessories.

He had joined Christian Dior Couture in 2008 as chief operating officer.

Low-key and methodical, a graduate of Ecole Polytechnique, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Télécommunications and Institut d’Etudes Politiques de Paris, Brunschwig joined LVMH in 1995, working for Louis Vuitton and Sephora, with a particular expertise in emerging markets like Asia and the Middle East. From 1995 to 1999 he headed the Vuitton business in Southeast Asia, ultimately rising to president of LVMH Fashion Group for the Asia-Pacific region.

Before joining Dior, Brunschwig served as chairman and CEO of Céline from 2006.

At Fendi, he steered the company through the death of Karl Lagerfeld in February 2019, and the arrival of Kim Jones, who was appointed artistic director of couture and womenswear in 2020, and of Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the fourth generation of the Fendi family, who joined the label as artistic director of jewelry. Her mother, Silvia Venturini Fendi, serves as artistic director of accessories and menswear collections.

Under Brunschwig’s watch Fendi signed a joint venture in 2021 with Design Holding, forming Fashion Furniture Design (FF Design) to develop the Fendi Casa business.

Brunschwig has continued to build Fendi’s retail network while also developing the brand’s key manufacturing assets and protecting Made in Italy craftsmanship.

In October 2022, he unveiled Fendi’s new sprawling state-of-the-art accessories plant in Italy’s Capannuccia, a 30-minute drive from Florence. The plant, which telegraphs Fendi’s ongoing commitment toward sustainability and social responsibility, offers improved efficiency and a beautiful location to work in. It was the stage for Fendi’s men’s spring 2024 show.

The complex, which produces around 200,000 pieces a year, is surrounded by seven hectares of greenery, over an area spanning 324,000 square feet, and initially created 350 new jobs, with expectations to double that over the next few years.

A grove of 700 olive trees is visible throughout all areas of the park, allowing the production of oil from the factory itself of up to 900 liters a year.

In addition to helping Fendi increase control over its product pipeline, Brunschwig underscored that the plant was part of an initiative to train new generations of artisans.

The executive also spearheaded the construction of a new shoe factory in Fermo, in Italy’s Marche region, a key footwear production hub in the country.

Fendi has also kicked off the “Adopt a School“ educational project in collaboration with Altagamma and the “Ostilio Ricci” institute, also located in Fermo, aiming to fight unemployment and protect Italian manufacturing skills by connecting the luxury industry with Italian schools, in particular, technical and scientific institutes.

Fendi has long committed to the education and training of young talents through the Massoli Academy in Rome, which trains new tailors, and the participation in the LVMH Institute des Métiers d’Excellence training program.

Brunschwig’s commitment to protecting Italian beauty extends to the country’s cultural heritage. Last year Fendi pledged to help conservatively restore the Grotto of Diana at the Estense Garden in Tivoli, working with Villa Adriana and Villa d’Este, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Other restorations included the refurbishment of six reception salons at Villa Medici, in Rome, and the restoration work of the Temple of Venus and Rome.

With contributions from Miles Socha, Paris.
Source: WWD
 
Maybe the CEO shake up means Kim is out. Fendi is such an iconic brand, so much history, family legacy and pop culture moments. Celine with almost no show presence exceeding Fendi is concerning. What is keeping Fendi alive is the success of Sylvia's bags. Also must be a bummer for LVMH that no deal was secured with Michele.
 

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