I always feel like mega brands like Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermès would benefit from hiring a head artistic director who would lead the creative directors for each division. Just so that everything looks good when put together.
While I agree on paper with that, I also think that strong personalities and visions benefits the brand.
Hermes already works in that way. Jean Louis Dumas was already the artistic director on top of being the CEO and Pierre Alexis Dumas followed as a creative director.
It worked because while the brand is rather classic, JLD wasn’t afraid of strong personalities and understood the value of creativity.
At Chanel, Karl was the creative director for the fashion part but Jacques Helleu for the rest. Both strong personalities but they worked for the interest of the house.
Apparently, they didn’t like each other but they have enough respect for each other to work for the best interest of the house. Anna Mouglalis was selected by Karl but managed to have Fragrance and Joaillerie campaigns beyond the fashion perimeter of Karl. When Vanessa lost her beauty contract with the brand, Karl brought her back…
I think about a brand like Gucci. When Tom left, they had creative directors for womenswear, menswear and accessories. At the time, it felt weird because it somehow diluted the fashion POV of the brand. But in retrospective, this is the perfect way to build a lifestyle brand and really build off the codes of a house.
In reality, a lot of designers aren’t creative directors in a way that Hedi, Tom or Nicolas are…
Tbh, this is not true. I hate MGC as a designer but she is a great business woman. I know her story at Dior very well and she’s been amazing business wise. Dior before her was a small business, now it’s huge.
Also, at the beginning she did have a lot of saying in the stores and in the VM. Huge influence actually. All the wood was used because of her. She chose the mannequins as well. Even the props. The store design before her was COMPLETELY different.
She’s been one of the very huge business successes of the last 10 years with Alessandro Michele for Gucci and Hedi for YSL and Céline.
I get what you are saying in terms of « small business ». It’s a question of scales really.
Dior became part of the 1 billion club only 10 years ago and while there was growth all along, her era is the one that had the most exponential growth.
It’s like Alessandro Michele. Tom did the foundation, Frida strengthen them and Alessandro boosted it. Gucci was almost 3 billions when Alessandro came. It was 9 when he left….