vogue.co.uk
Roman Holiday
21 October, 2009
I’ve lived in Florence and worked in Milan, but Rome has a hold of my heart. I jumped at the chance to go for 48 hours - with the Rome Film Festival as the perfect excuse. My boyfriend produced the new Coen Brothers’ movie, A Serious Man, which was being given a gala screening, Italian style…very late, very chaotic, very glamorous…
I loved the movie, another tragi-comic masterpiece from the Coens starring the amazing and soon-to-be-discovered by the world at large Michael Stueberg. Genius late Sixties styling…especially the seductress next door with her tan lines and orange towelling…
The brothers’ entourage are a close-knit gang, years of experience inspiring a kind of creative shorthand linking performance and production design seemingly effortlessly. They’re a class act. Joel’s wife, Frances McDormand, came along to Rome for the ride and we spent our first night drinking red wine in the garden of the Hotel De Russie catching up on London/NY news and planning our precious two days in Rome.
I’d always wanted to stay at the Hotel de Russie, a name whispered to me over the years by friends in the know. It didn’t disappoint. I loved being a quick stroll from the Spanish Steps, the cafes of Piazza de Popolo, the uptown chic of Via Condotti (I suddenly became a Gucci kind of girl…when in Rome), and the one-of-a-kind backstreet boutiques where one feels one should invest in a lifetime supply of their speciality be it stockings or notepads or hairbrushes…..
I loved coming ‘home’ to the hotel late at night, not being able to resist one last drink in the garden, and sinking into bed feeling carefree and decadent and properly on holiday. Frankly I’d be happy in Rome in any old B&B, but Hotel de Russie is the perfect hideaway for my slightly more high-maintenance Gucci-shopping alter-ego….
The legendary Hotel de Russie
Always good to know where Romeo lives…..
My perfect day in Rome goes something like this (contact information below)…
Espressos and sweet pastries at the Café Greco on Via Condotti where movie stars and mechanics get their caffeine/sugar fixes….
A stroll around the Borghese Galleries and Gardens. We caught the Caravaggio/Bacon show. Be organised and book online.
Lunch at Da Nino. Old school but reassuringly full of locals. Love watching the Romans at lunch, especially the older gentlemen lingering over coffees, elegantly crumpled.
A lazy day could then lead towards the Pantheon. The backstreets that snake around the main piazza are full of treasures…art, fashion and knick-knacks. I bought stationery for my kids and coconut ice-cream for me!
Drift back up Via Condotti, window shopping all the way, towards the Santa Maria church on Piazza di Popolo and then back to the Hotel de Russie for a glass of wine as the light fades.
Rome Directory
Café Greco; Via Condotti,86.
Gucci; Via Condotti,8.
Da Nino;Via Borgognona,11. tel; 06 679 5676
Galleria Borghese; Piazzale Scipione Borghese,5./www.galleriaborghese.it
Hotel de Russie; Via del Babuino, 9. tel; 06328881
Mondo; Via dei Greci, 30. tel; 0636492313 (Unusual gifts for kids and teens. Japanese influenced.)
Tad, Via Borgognona, 155a. (A Colette-style concept store, a little soulless but still worth a look.)
Battistoni; Via Condotti, 60-61a.(Old-school Italian made to measure…an experience!)
Rostioli; Via dei Giubbonari, 21-22 (Fantastic restaurant and bakery-worth a trip for the bread alone).
Il Papiro; Via del Pantheon, 50. (Beautiful and unique stationery).
PS - Officers and gentlemen, Roman style.