Louis Vuitton: Get out your sunglasses
Suzy Menkes IHT
Sunday, October 10, 2004
The colors! Aaargh the colors! In the Stygian gloom of the show tent, metallic shades exploded like a giant car crash on the Louis Vuitton runway Sunday as the summer 2005 shows moved to their end.
Overhead, lighted orbs spun, photographers strewn round the runway flashed at the movie stars Maggie Gyllenhaal and Christina Ricci, who opened the show in one of the handful of quiet black outfits. The rest was a whirl of circular-patterned skirts with giant peep-hole cutouts, flower prints on hot pants, snug purple knits, cute crochet bags and even a purse in scarlet with the LV logo knitted in. Ah yes! This was a Vuitton show, which you might have guessed too from the denim top with logo pockets above a Cinderella shredded skirt. But what did all these voluminous, vaguely 1950s skirts have to do with the luxury house's travel heritage?
"It was just about having fun," said the designer Marc Jacobs innocently backstage. But the real story was brand extension. No wonder the show made all the editors reach for their sunshades. That was the big idea. Cut to Pharrell Williams, hip music producer and hit-maker sitting front row in the red glasses he had designed for the house, as Vuitton's latest co-operation between art and commerce. The sunglasses looked pretty cool and the bags were intriguing, especially logo purses printed with cherries given happy little faces. In the melee there were probably some luxurious and desirable clothes. But this was a weirdly psychedelic vision from Jacobs - and one best viewed through the rose-tinted shades.