Louis Vuitton S/S 2025 Paris

[imjustken]

This show reminded me of these shows

 

[LenaLena]

ugly without a reason
and yes, quite very Chanel

top joke look > one leg pieces

 

[reese06]

This show reminded me of these shows

They don't do soundtracks like that LV and CD show anymore where the girls had to STOMP it out. Yes, I know I sound like an old drag queen yearning for the old days...

I found that Dior show on soundcloud and do cardio on the treadmill and stairmaster to it from time to time.

 

[imjustken]

They don't do soundtracks like that LV and CD show anymore where the girls had to STOMP it out.

I love these shows and these soundtracks ! I want to see and hear it all : the stomping, the walking and the gliding. Galliano had great soundtracks for his brand and Dior, Karl had great soundtracks for Fendi and Chanel and also Lanvin during Alber's tenure, the editing of the show and the soundtrack by Ariel Wizman. Love to watch them. Fun fact : Pharell Williams did the soundtrack of that LV Spring 2006 show. The soundtrack by Jamie xx in the latest show was great !

 

[Xone]

I’m not a fan of logos and monograms but I can tolerate it on a petite malle or very specific designs.

Same, i do like monograms but only the classics one like the LV monogram and only on certain pieces like on small bags...

 

[WAVES]

a solid collection from NG.
the oversized jackets are amazing and that was enough for me ahah

on the downside, I’m beyond tired of seeing random knots, loose ends and loose fringes (it’s been everywhere for ages now!), popping out of jackets or coats that don’t allow us to see the garment itself and just give the impression that there’s nothing interesting underneath. especially on double or more looks, at least one should display it properly.

I also wish it was all a little bit more sleeker silhouette wise…

but what always or most of the times totally kills it for me is the abhorrent styling.
Marie-Amélie always goes overboard and drowns it all. it’s a pity.

I also felt some Dior vibes… good to know I wasn’t the only one ahaha coz sometimes I find myself questioning my own perception of things especially here on TFS.

 

[PDFSD]

a solid collection from NG.
the oversized jackets are amazing and that was enough for me ahah

on the downside, I’m beyond tired of seeing random knots, loose ends and loose fringes (it’s been everywhere for ages now!), popping out of jackets or coats that don’t allow us to see the garment itself and just give the impression that there’s nothing interesting underneath. especially on double or more looks, at least one should display it properly.

I also wish it was all a little bit more sleeker silhouette wise…

but what always or most of the times totally kills it for me is the abhorrent styling.
Marie-Amélie always goes overboard and drowns it all. it’s a pity.

I also felt some Dior vibes… good to know I wasn’t the only one ahaha coz sometimes I find myself questioning my own perception of things especially here on TFS.

Knowing two of her ex assistance actually i the abhorrent styling is more NG pushing it as MAS is more cleaner and natural in her styling in general if you see how she dress to her editorial and her inspo pics are allows more natural french 70´s vibe. more real

I feel she just works with what NG dish up but i am sure if NG left more up to MAS it will be more streamlined and less space & tacky fun 80´s nostalgia all the time.

Some CD lean on stylist to bring in the masig while other need a stylist to clean up and edit and make it have more sense , MAS is more the last one.

 

[WAVES]

Knowing two of her ex assistance actually i the abhorrent styling is more NG pushing it as MAS is more cleaner and natural in her styling in general if you see how she dress to her editorial and her inspo pics are allows more natural french 70´s vibe. more real

I feel she just works with what NG dish up but i am sure if NG left more up to MAS it will be more streamlined and less space & tacky fun 80´s nostalgia all the time.

Some CD lean on stylist to bring in the masig while other need a stylist to clean up and edit and make it have more sense , MAS is more the last one.

thanks for sharing that! well, it’s a shame! I hope MAS likes at least the result because to have ones name associated to something just because…

however, I do not think she cleans up and edits it to have ‘more sense’ since you said she does the latter (on your last sentence), it’s the total opposite for me. unless, what NG actually wants is something 10 times worse. sacrée cœur!

 

[Lola701]

thanks for sharing that! well, it’s a shame! I hope MAS likes at least the result because to have ones name associated to something just because…

however, I do not think she cleans up and edits it to have ‘more sense’ since you said she does the latter (on your last sentence), it’s the total opposite for me. unless, what NG actually wants is something 10 times worse. sacrée cœur!

But it’s just a matter of appreciation right?
Nicolas is on his « challenging the eye and the taste » thing and they probably enjoy the fact that they are able to produce this kind of very « non conventional » proposition at the most commercial luxury house in the world.

From MAS pov, I’m waiting to see if she does Tom Ford with Haider (as they are friends too and collaborated at Berluti) as it would give her more balance.

Because Louis Vuitton and Paco Rabanne are about more of the same aesthetic language, she doesn’t have a runway platform where she can show her range.

For some reason, I’ve come to totally enjoy their work. I can still extract what I like from it but I can understand that for someone who loves a silhouette, it can be challenging.

 

[PDFSD]

thanks for sharing that! well, it’s a shame! I hope MAS likes at least the result because to have ones name associated to something just because…

however, I do not think she cleans up and edits it to have ‘more sense’ since you said she does the latter (on your last sentence), it’s the total opposite for me. unless, what NG actually wants is something 10 times worse. sacrée cœur!

NG is not a minimalist he is a nerdy guy and guilty of overdesign he loves the play of bad taste and scifi this like hedi with his low fi rock youth groupie has been clear obsession since day one

I think they are so close she also accepts NG obsessions and for how he is and after all she is support, being friends its important to let people be themselves and she has also her freedom and plss that comes with the job i think she knows that the fun and success that NG bring at LV and that the job brings also allot power to her both financially and creatively i'm sure as well.

NG is in charge he knows what he wants look also at all the creative directors that came from his studio they all have same over design issue even when not styled by MAS

 

[PDFSD]

But it’s just a matter of appreciation right?
Nicolas is on his « challenging the eye and the taste » thing and they probably enjoy the fact that they are able to produce this kind of very « non conventional » proposition at the most commercial luxury house in the world.

From MAS pov, I’m waiting to see if she does Tom Ford with Haider (as they are friends too and collaborated at Berluti) as it would give her more balance.

Because Louis Vuitton and Paco Rabanne are about more of the same aesthetic language, she doesn’t have a runway platform where she can show her range.

For some reason, I’ve come to totally enjoy their work. I can still extract what I like from it but I can understand that for someone who loves a silhouette, it can be challenging.

i wish NG listen more to Mas or gave her more space for input because i am sure she would make thing look more sharp and chic and effortless.....i like allot NG but the thing i cant stand for most of LV years and alte balenciaga years is the comic toy vibe to the clothes and acc ..i love the play with bad tate etc but its never streamlined and made more sharp .

 

[Frida]

This is an example on how good she can style this collection by her own playing with the same proportions and make a chic silhouette.


From MÁS instagram

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

There was a Marc Jacobs quote on IG about people not talking or thinking about looking chic anymore. I feel like that's true, it's not very "of the moment". One explanation could be it's not instantly understood on a global level, too subtle?

So delivering blatant, loud and grating visuals is just right.

 

[imjustken]

I always love the styling on their website. It's always very fresh and modern

 

[tricotineacetat]

I feel like this idea of 'challenging the boundaries' of taste feels very much tired and beaten to death, thinking that it’s origins are rooted on one hand in the popularity fashion is enjoying today (while it was very much an insider’s thing still in the late 1990ies and early 2000s) and a normalization of a 'LOOK-AT-ME!!' attitude through social media and street style. As a consequence of that, we look at current fashions with a normalization that runway shows need to put up a challenging proposition that is exaggerated and divisive of taste to be considered 'fashion', whereas on the other hand we have it’s polar opposite, the much talked-about 'quiet luxury'.

We will forever continue this discussion in connection with Nicolas' work at Vuitton but I think what I find uninteresting is the lacking of pragmatism in the show-specific designs, from the clothing to the accessories, that so much informed the breakthrough years of his Balenciaga, which I believe are still by far more well-liked than any of the shows he put on in
The last three years of his tenure there - I’m getting the feeling that the departure of key collaborators like Bouchra Jarrar whose own style clearly suggests a more streamlined classicism that was later lacking in influence on Ghesquiere’s creative process gave space to a much more frivolous and maximalist direction that stands much in contrast to the beginning of his career that was closer to the 1990ies style of Jean Colonna, Thimister and Lang.

I do very much go with @PDFSD that Marie-Amélie Sauve probably let’s Ghesquière be largely himself in his creative process unlike in other dynamics between creative director and a 2nd-in-chief, where that person usually acts like the pragmatic corrective that streamlines a designer’s ideas into a more straightforward, understandable product.

That being said, I hope there will be a time in Ghesquiere’s career that follows a different narrative than what he’s been up to the last few years. I feel like he’s explored all that he could with this approach and a breath of fresh air by means of a different chapter in his style would be a welcome change.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Really interesting analyse, tricotineacetat.

Nicolas' time at Balenciaga was pretty unique.
The team arround him was exceptionally gifted (some of them started solo projects afterwards) and, although I don't know the internal dynamics of that studio, it feels like it was a more collective way of working, more participative.
I imagine bigger structures like LV tend to have a more hyerarchized and compartimentalized approach.

So I agree with you. It looks like nobody "corrects" his ideas at Vuitton. Maybe there are commercial feedbacks that need to be taken in consideration, and that's it.

As a result I think what we have at Vuitton is Nicolas' own house.
Many expected him to open his own brand after the Balenciaga-gate. He even played with the idea in an interview for French TV. Vuitton is Nicolas' vision, without budget limitations and without other strong creative points of view to dialogue with.

Another thing: at Balenciaga you had one of the most important archives in Fashion history (sorry if I sound exaggerated, but I truly think so). Some collections like FW06 were almost exclusively updates of Cristobal codes.
What did he have at LV when he arrived?
Fifteen years of Marc Jacobs.
So in a way he was forced to start from scratch, his own way.
I've seen more references at Vuitton to his own Balenciaga than to Marc.

And finally, I have the feeling that in the last ten years, the designing teams are asked to design per categories. Separates, not looks.
At Balenciaga, maybe the most extreme collection was SS08. Exclusively looks.
Whereas today, not only at Vuitton but in many houses, you have the feeling that the models are wearing a pile of pieces, not completely cohesive, a little disjointed.

So yes, because of the teams, the archives and the demands of corporate fashion, the Balenciaga years and the Vuitton years are necessarily very different.

 

[imjustken]

I love his disjointed looks ! The more disjointed the better, like Spring 2018 : Louis XIV meets Kylian Mbappé. I wish he did more looks like that : Empress Joséphine meets Britney Spears, Marie Curie meets Catherine Deneuve and so on. Also I love when he goes classic like Fall 2018 or Fall 2009 at Balenciaga. Those satin saree suits ? To die for.

 

[PDFSD]

I love his disjointed looks ! The more disjointed the better, like Spring 2018 : Louis XIV meets Kylian Mbappé. I wish he did more looks like that : Empress Joséphine meets Britney Spears, Marie Curie meets Catherine Deneuve and so on. Also I love when he goes classic like Fall 2018 or Fall 2009 at Balenciaga. Those satin saree suits ? To die for.

all you mentioned i like as well from his assemblage style /disjointed concept but lately its just melting hot mess of ideas, its like when prada is not as good as i should e it's still better than most other shows.

i like challenging and bad taste and experimentation but it has to also crystallized into some refinement of harp point of view not endless pille on of ideas with no real solution offered but self indulging or discipline. at a point it's just messy and ugly and campy like dior drag year with Galliano.

even if i know and understand a lot of parts will be then used in the main collection and this is the advantage commercially the brand benefited from more than with Marc years even for rtw but also bags and acc development is much stronger and vast and detailed and consistent novelty on a very commercial level drives allot of sales ......which is good.

even when average client don't even know or need to know NG is at LV....i feel his contribution is adding to the fact that LV is just a giant supermarket of things now and the design language is not cohesive other than the mono grams and logo play that ties it all together.

last but not least last 2 or 3 shows even the ambassadors look very awkward in the looks and 90 % dont work well on most human bodies let alone the movement aspect of the clothes are not modern but stiff and cardboard and move against the body and not with it ...ending up seeing people constantly adjusting the looks they have on.

its not feeling modern when modernity and the future is big part of his design concept as well is what i want to say.
amen lol

 

[PDFSD]

This show reminded me of these shows

​

Puck news /November 7, 2024​

Murakami Time​

Dior is a trickier challenge than Louis Vuitton, which has benefited from the warm reception bestowed upon creative director Pharrell Williams when he joined to design menswear in early 2023. Nearly two years later, however, things have cooled, and Vuitton, too, needs a boost. And artistry alone won’t cut it. While the creative directors at the house—Williams, Nicolas Ghesquière on womenswear, and Francesca Amfitheatrof on jewelry—all drive significant sales, even the billions of dollars Ghesquière is pulling in pales in comparison to the revenue derived from LV’s humble coated canvas wallets and handbags. Perhaps that’s why the company is planning on relaunching its collaboration with the artist Takashi Murakami in the coming months.

I guess everything old is new again (or everything old that was once sellable is still, hopefully, sellable). The Murakami collab was famously first introduced in 2003, back when Marc Jacobs was the creative director of the entire maison. The collection—for which the artist Murakami-fied the brand’s signature monogram with rainbow colors and cherries, among other treatments—was available until 2015, about two years after Jacobs exited the business. It was hugely successful, generating more than $300 million in its first year alone, and still commands high prices on the secondary market.

Supporting players were whispering that Ghesquière was not thrilled about the comeback. After all, he and his team have designed most of the brand’s top-selling handbags, and reviving Murakami could be considered a lazy stunt on the part of Louis Vuitton C.E.O., Pietro Beccari. In the end, after talking to people close to Ghesquière, it seems that he is happy to see it revived in a new context. After all, Ghesquière has succeeded at Vuitton over the past decade because he has managed to handle the extreme commercial pressures while continuing to design collections that often feel daring and artistic. He knows how to play the game, and certainly understands that Beccari is under pressure to jumpstart sales before demand for luxury goods picks back up toward the end of 2025, when China (hopefully) gets back on track and interest rates continue to drop, as many analysts predict. (The company didn’t respond to a request for comment.)