Louis Vuitton S/S 2025 Paris

[imjustken]

This show reminded me of these shows

 

[LenaLena]

ugly without a reason
and yes, quite very Chanel

top joke look > one leg pieces

 

[reese06]

This show reminded me of these shows

They don't do soundtracks like that LV and CD show anymore where the girls had to STOMP it out. Yes, I know I sound like an old drag queen yearning for the old days...

I found that Dior show on soundcloud and do cardio on the treadmill and stairmaster to it from time to time.

 

[imjustken]

They don't do soundtracks like that LV and CD show anymore where the girls had to STOMP it out.

I love these shows and these soundtracks ! I want to see and hear it all : the stomping, the walking and the gliding. Galliano had great soundtracks for his brand and Dior, Karl had great soundtracks for Fendi and Chanel and also Lanvin during Alber's tenure, the editing of the show and the soundtrack by Ariel Wizman. Love to watch them. Fun fact : Pharell Williams did the soundtrack of that LV Spring 2006 show. The soundtrack by Jamie xx in the latest show was great !

 

[Xone]

I’m not a fan of logos and monograms but I can tolerate it on a petite malle or very specific designs.

Same, i do like monograms but only the classics one like the LV monogram and only on certain pieces like on small bags...

 

[WAVES]

a solid collection from NG.
the oversized jackets are amazing and that was enough for me ahah

on the downside, I’m beyond tired of seeing random knots, loose ends and loose fringes (it’s been everywhere for ages now!), popping out of jackets or coats that don’t allow us to see the garment itself and just give the impression that there’s nothing interesting underneath. especially on double or more looks, at least one should display it properly.

I also wish it was all a little bit more sleeker silhouette wise…

but what always or most of the times totally kills it for me is the abhorrent styling.
Marie-Amélie always goes overboard and drowns it all. it’s a pity.

I also felt some Dior vibes… good to know I wasn’t the only one ahaha coz sometimes I find myself questioning my own perception of things especially here on TFS.

 

[PDFSD]

a solid collection from NG.
the oversized jackets are amazing and that was enough for me ahah

on the downside, I’m beyond tired of seeing random knots, loose ends and loose fringes (it’s been everywhere for ages now!), popping out of jackets or coats that don’t allow us to see the garment itself and just give the impression that there’s nothing interesting underneath. especially on double or more looks, at least one should display it properly.

I also wish it was all a little bit more sleeker silhouette wise…

but what always or most of the times totally kills it for me is the abhorrent styling.
Marie-Amélie always goes overboard and drowns it all. it’s a pity.

I also felt some Dior vibes… good to know I wasn’t the only one ahaha coz sometimes I find myself questioning my own perception of things especially here on TFS.

Knowing two of her ex assistance actually i the abhorrent styling is more NG pushing it as MAS is more cleaner and natural in her styling in general if you see how she dress to her editorial and her inspo pics are allows more natural french 70´s vibe. more real

I feel she just works with what NG dish up but i am sure if NG left more up to MAS it will be more streamlined and less space & tacky fun 80´s nostalgia all the time.

Some CD lean on stylist to bring in the masig while other need a stylist to clean up and edit and make it have more sense , MAS is more the last one.

 

[WAVES]

Knowing two of her ex assistance actually i the abhorrent styling is more NG pushing it as MAS is more cleaner and natural in her styling in general if you see how she dress to her editorial and her inspo pics are allows more natural french 70´s vibe. more real

I feel she just works with what NG dish up but i am sure if NG left more up to MAS it will be more streamlined and less space & tacky fun 80´s nostalgia all the time.

Some CD lean on stylist to bring in the masig while other need a stylist to clean up and edit and make it have more sense , MAS is more the last one.

thanks for sharing that! well, it’s a shame! I hope MAS likes at least the result because to have ones name associated to something just because…

however, I do not think she cleans up and edits it to have ‘more sense’ since you said she does the latter (on your last sentence), it’s the total opposite for me. unless, what NG actually wants is something 10 times worse. sacrée cœur!

 

[Lola701]

thanks for sharing that! well, it’s a shame! I hope MAS likes at least the result because to have ones name associated to something just because…

however, I do not think she cleans up and edits it to have ‘more sense’ since you said she does the latter (on your last sentence), it’s the total opposite for me. unless, what NG actually wants is something 10 times worse. sacrée cœur!

But it’s just a matter of appreciation right?
Nicolas is on his « challenging the eye and the taste » thing and they probably enjoy the fact that they are able to produce this kind of very « non conventional » proposition at the most commercial luxury house in the world.

From MAS pov, I’m waiting to see if she does Tom Ford with Haider (as they are friends too and collaborated at Berluti) as it would give her more balance.

Because Louis Vuitton and Paco Rabanne are about more of the same aesthetic language, she doesn’t have a runway platform where she can show her range.

For some reason, I’ve come to totally enjoy their work. I can still extract what I like from it but I can understand that for someone who loves a silhouette, it can be challenging.

 

[PDFSD]

thanks for sharing that! well, it’s a shame! I hope MAS likes at least the result because to have ones name associated to something just because…

however, I do not think she cleans up and edits it to have ‘more sense’ since you said she does the latter (on your last sentence), it’s the total opposite for me. unless, what NG actually wants is something 10 times worse. sacrée cœur!

NG is not a minimalist he is a nerdy guy and guilty of overdesign he loves the play of bad taste and scifi this like hedi with his low fi rock youth groupie has been clear obsession since day one

I think they are so close she also accepts NG obsessions and for how he is and after all she is support, being friends its important to let people be themselves and she has also her freedom and plss that comes with the job i think she knows that the fun and success that NG bring at LV and that the job brings also allot power to her both financially and creatively i'm sure as well.

NG is in charge he knows what he wants look also at all the creative directors that came from his studio they all have same over design issue even when not styled by MAS

 

[PDFSD]

But it’s just a matter of appreciation right?
Nicolas is on his « challenging the eye and the taste » thing and they probably enjoy the fact that they are able to produce this kind of very « non conventional » proposition at the most commercial luxury house in the world.

From MAS pov, I’m waiting to see if she does Tom Ford with Haider (as they are friends too and collaborated at Berluti) as it would give her more balance.

Because Louis Vuitton and Paco Rabanne are about more of the same aesthetic language, she doesn’t have a runway platform where she can show her range.

For some reason, I’ve come to totally enjoy their work. I can still extract what I like from it but I can understand that for someone who loves a silhouette, it can be challenging.

i wish NG listen more to Mas or gave her more space for input because i am sure she would make thing look more sharp and chic and effortless.....i like allot NG but the thing i cant stand for most of LV years and alte balenciaga years is the comic toy vibe to the clothes and acc ..i love the play with bad tate etc but its never streamlined and made more sharp .

 

[Frida]

This is an example on how good she can style this collection by her own playing with the same proportions and make a chic silhouette.


From MÁS instagram

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

There was a Marc Jacobs quote on IG about people not talking or thinking about looking chic anymore. I feel like that's true, it's not very "of the moment". One explanation could be it's not instantly understood on a global level, too subtle?

So delivering blatant, loud and grating visuals is just right.

 

[imjustken]

I always love the styling on their website. It's always very fresh and modern

 

[tricotineacetat]

I feel like this idea of 'challenging the boundaries' of taste feels very much tired and beaten to death, thinking that it’s origins are rooted on one hand in the popularity fashion is enjoying today (while it was very much an insider’s thing still in the late 1990ies and early 2000s) and a normalization of a 'LOOK-AT-ME!!' attitude through social media and street style. As a consequence of that, we look at current fashions with a normalization that runway shows need to put up a challenging proposition that is exaggerated and divisive of taste to be considered 'fashion', whereas on the other hand we have it’s polar opposite, the much talked-about 'quiet luxury'.

We will forever continue this discussion in connection with Nicolas' work at Vuitton but I think what I find uninteresting is the lacking of pragmatism in the show-specific designs, from the clothing to the accessories, that so much informed the breakthrough years of his Balenciaga, which I believe are still by far more well-liked than any of the shows he put on in
The last three years of his tenure there - I’m getting the feeling that the departure of key collaborators like Bouchra Jarrar whose own style clearly suggests a more streamlined classicism that was later lacking in influence on Ghesquiere’s creative process gave space to a much more frivolous and maximalist direction that stands much in contrast to the beginning of his career that was closer to the 1990ies style of Jean Colonna, Thimister and Lang.

I do very much go with @PDFSD that Marie-Amélie Sauve probably let’s Ghesquière be largely himself in his creative process unlike in other dynamics between creative director and a 2nd-in-chief, where that person usually acts like the pragmatic corrective that streamlines a designer’s ideas into a more straightforward, understandable product.

That being said, I hope there will be a time in Ghesquiere’s career that follows a different narrative than what he’s been up to the last few years. I feel like he’s explored all that he could with this approach and a breath of fresh air by means of a different chapter in his style would be a welcome change.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Really interesting analyse, tricotineacetat.

Nicolas' time at Balenciaga was pretty unique.
The team arround him was exceptionally gifted (some of them started solo projects afterwards) and, although I don't know the internal dynamics of that studio, it feels like it was a more collective way of working, more participative.
I imagine bigger structures like LV tend to have a more hyerarchized and compartimentalized approach.

So I agree with you. It looks like nobody "corrects" his ideas at Vuitton. Maybe there are commercial feedbacks that need to be taken in consideration, and that's it.

As a result I think what we have at Vuitton is Nicolas' own house.
Many expected him to open his own brand after the Balenciaga-gate. He even played with the idea in an interview for French TV. Vuitton is Nicolas' vision, without budget limitations and without other strong creative points of view to dialogue with.

Another thing: at Balenciaga you had one of the most important archives in Fashion history (sorry if I sound exaggerated, but I truly think so). Some collections like FW06 were almost exclusively updates of Cristobal codes.
What did he have at LV when he arrived?
Fifteen years of Marc Jacobs.
So in a way he was forced to start from scratch, his own way.
I've seen more references at Vuitton to his own Balenciaga than to Marc.

And finally, I have the feeling that in the last ten years, the designing teams are asked to design per categories. Separates, not looks.
At Balenciaga, maybe the most extreme collection was SS08. Exclusively looks.
Whereas today, not only at Vuitton but in many houses, you have the feeling that the models are wearing a pile of pieces, not completely cohesive, a little disjointed.

So yes, because of the teams, the archives and the demands of corporate fashion, the Balenciaga years and the Vuitton years are necessarily very different.