Maison Martin Margiela Mens F/W 08.09 Paris

[Dkammern]

i dont like the INCOGNITO on men...

i need some of these shoulder-padded jackets!

 

[the-smiths]

^ Im on the list for the incognito. They're a little steep at 600 bucks but I love them.

 

[Scott]

And rumor has it......The reason why Margiela stopped communicating with the press was b/c.....one of his first collections was presented in an abandoned playground for children. It was outside...and most of the audience consisted of children who actually made the presentation/invites to the show with crayons. Anyway...the fashion press decided to print that Margiela was "exploting homeless children"...and that concept was never Margiela's intention. Basically...what he was trying to communicate was the subject of neglect...how we all now live in a very disposable society...hence, the "abandoned" playground. Most of the pieces in the show were actually found objects that had been discarded...but, through Margiela's hands...he breathed "new-life" into things that people had disposed of. Margiela is very anti-fashion...and that is the quintessential "ideal" that I aspire to....hahaha!!

that doesn't surprise me very much. the press,especially mainstream fashion press,can be rather ignorant. sometimes they just never get it. i love the anti about him as well. i just think margiela is a purist and he's got an actual vision...ideas....and makes clothes for people with a personality.

 

[margielamike2004]

Exactly, Scott. Margiela is certainly a purist...and through several years of fighting to survive (without going bankrupt) amongst the fashion elite, like the Prada Corp, Gucci, LVMH (stiff competition)..he still tries to remain true to his integrity, his beliefs, and his ideal of what "fashion" should be...or rather, how most people should perceive it.

There is a rhyme and reason to every stance or action (even design concept) that Margiela takes. For one example....he intentionally made it a practice to cover all of his models faces as they walked down the runway. Why??...well, a close observation of the fashion system and how it operates today..it's very clear to see that we now live in an age when too much hype, media, and attention is placed upon the "model celebrity" of the year...like Naomi or Linda E. for example. Their stardom unfortunately out-shines the clothes they're wearing, and they become the focus of attention. The clothes become secondary. Margiela would rather his audience view his clothes, not the models. The issue of "who was wearing what" becomes irrelevant...as it should be.

Margiela makes the same perceptions about himself. For him, it doesn't matter to anyone what he looks like, what his opinion is, what his lifestyle is like, what brand or color his underwear are, etc etc. He considers himself to be a designer, not another "celebrity" designer, such as Tom Ford once was at the house of Gucci.

Margiela doesn't like to advertise himself or his collections to a mass audience. Most of what society has done to fashion could be viewed in 2 aspects. Through advertising...it helps to aid a designer to reach a larger audience...but unfortunately, advertising also places too much emphasis on the subject of "status". For example?? A toilet-plunger no longer becomes just a "standard" a toilet-plunger....once you place a Prada triangle, or a double-G logo on it's surface...you elevate it's status and marketability. One of Margiela's collections actually dealt with the issue os "Standards"...and "Stereotypes", which I thought was amazingly witty.

A few things about Margiela have certainly changed (unfortunately)....but most of what he originally intended, has still remained true to this day and age.

 

[JordanB]

Not really feeling this.

 

[Bidwell]

I will be honest and say I haven't found much to buy from him in recent years, everything permeated with retro cuts (especially the pants) but I find all of this very appealing.
Perhaps because it is closer to the aesthetic of C.C.Poell ( which I always took as being Margiela's anyway!)
Très cool.

 

[MJCouture]

^ Im on the list for the incognito. They're a little steep at 600 bucks but I love them.

Is that what they are calling those terrific sunglasses? I love them.

As for the majority of this collection, it is surely a little more "fashion" than Margiela usually goes, but on the whole I enjoy it. Like Casius said, you need to see Margiela in person. I often find the styling and presentation are a little hard to see through, but the pieces are often wonderful.

 

[markie]

MMM = looooooooooooooooooooooove.

 

[LostInNJ]

I really like this. I've been paying more attention to his line in recent years and I love his attention to detail.

 

[AlexN]

^ Im on the list for the incognito. They're a little steep at 600 bucks but I love them.

Why the hell are they $600? What are they made of?

 

[the-smiths]

^ Handmade acetate...handmade plastic basically. Also, I heard something in passing about the lenses and being really technologically advanced...

I have no idea, to be honest. I just want them, I agree that they're insanely expensive, I never spent more than 250 on sunglasses before

 

[Wantons4U]

^ Im on the list for the incognito. They're a little steep at 600 bucks but I love them.

$600? omg... Those "Incognito" sunglasses are completely overpriced even for "handmade plastic." Plus they look very gimmickry and impractical.

Aren't they out this month? I wonder where I can check them out...lol

 

[the-smiths]

^ My SA called today actually, theyre out in June. He called to confirm me for them. the NYC store is only getting 50 pairs. Theyre only making 1000

 

[Wantons4U]

^ My SA called today actually, theyre out in June. He called to confirm me for them. the NYC store is only getting 50 pairs. Theyre only making 1000

Thanks for the info! Is that the only model of sunglasses MMM is releasing?

 

[Matay]

i've always loved barbed wire since i did an artwork with it in the tenth grade.
i NEED the barbed wire ring and belt buckle..please.

 

[nicolas77]

thanks for all the info on the incognito!

 

[runner]

the coat and top under

14
sartorial

minorityrev

 

[kahlilg]

wow at those coats! so sharp and rigid. love it.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

i really dream of those shoes....the ones with the skull print screen and those gorgeous calvary boots.

So do I. I love them.

I like a lot of these pieces.

 

[opus78]

Oops..sorry for the mis-understanding, Scott!!

Basically, I just find it really weird that the prices for Margiela have gone up since the Diesel buyout. Diesel can mass-produce...so shouldn't the prices be lower???

I have plenty of Margiela's artisinal pieces...but most of them are not as labor-intensive as what his artisinal collection is now. I have mostly t-shirts that have been silk-screened...t-shirts that have had the logo on the front removed, and re-paneled like a huge patch...very early artisianl pieces. His artisinal collection is now REALLY expensive...and a lot more conceptualized that when he first began the artisinal collection. I wish I had the money to afford (his now) artisinal pieces....like that "travel-jacket" that was reworked from luggage...OH MY!!!

Hello, would you happen to have some photos of your early artisanal pieces? I love seeing early Margiela!