helmut.newton
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style.com
ihtPutting on the prairie
By Suzy Menkes
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
'Naiveté,' said Marc Jacobs to sum up the spirit of his exceptional show. It offered images of the historic nobility of American women - yet made the graceful and colorful clothes, luminous with glowing appliqués, seem enticingly modern.
And there is nothing naïve about Jacobs as a designer, who showed himself in this spring/summer 2009 presentation to be in a class of his own.
"Pretty women" was another offhand phrase from the superstar Jacobs as he greeted celebrities like Jennifer Lopez or his buddy Sofia Coppola, who said, ecstatic about the collection: "It's the sophisticated woman I want to be."
It was the brilliance of Jacobs to take a touch of the prairie, in flat straw boaters and long skirts wrapped at the back, and give those dusty images French polish.
Since he has been based in Paris, Jacobs has learned to take the seed of an idea and grow it with hyper-attention to every detail. First came the fabrics, with extraordinary effects, as deep reds and blues had shimmering surfaces. Then there were the silhouettes, shaped with a wrap of fabric at the waist; or, at the finale, draped gowns in gum pink or faded blue.
Exquisite accessories included bags, in plaid and gingham check like the skirts; the necklace, as a crystalline chunk on a chain, as a Victorian necklet or as a tribal piece that, along with hefty bangles, gave a savage echo of Africa.
It was as though the designer had taken the various elements of immigrant America and transported them into a future where women would wear tailored pants suits with sharp shoulders - à la Saint Laurent in the 1960s - and where a snug sweater over a full-sleeved blouse hinted at the 1970s.
Shoes lacing the instep and balanced on a slope of a pin heel could only have been from the fetishist spirit of footwear fashion now.
Jacobs has often used the past to project into the future. But at a time when the U.S. election has put a spotlight on the diversity of women, this show trembled with intuitive reflections - literally, in the set by Stefan Beckman with an infinity of mirrors, and metaphorically, with the jazz notes of Gershwin.
Yet at its most simplistic, the show just presented charming and colorful clothes to stoke fashion's deep desire.
Suzy Menkes is fashion editor at the International Herald Tribune.
that's exactly what i said ..... and saw ....It was as though the designer had taken the various elements of immigrant America and transported them into a future where women would wear tailored pants suits with sharp shoulders - à la Saint Laurent in the 1960s - and where a snug sweater over a full-sleeved blouse hinted at the 1970s.