Marni Launches Spring Collection with Uniqlo

[eugenius]

The menswear is all sorts of hideous. Ugly shape on the pants, horrible color palette, horrible color combinations, and silly prints.

The navy plaid coat in navy might pique my interest in the store, but the website doesn't inspire me much to want to find out.

 

[dodencebt]

I think the collection is nice tbh, and it seems to be doing well! Just ordered the printed oversized utility jacket, I hope it fits well when it arrives. It's right up my alley. I also wanted one of those plaid womenswear satin sets, but it looks like the pants aren't available online and there is no Uniqlo in my (actually big) city, which is super annoying.

 

[Mathewthew]

I think the collection is pretty nice and it sells really fast here. I brought like 6 pieces cause they look nicer than i thought, haha
The fit are a little bit big, but it's ok for me.

 

[Deleted member 167090]

I always think Uniqlo is similar to Zara in some way that both didn't need collaborations and can do well on their own if they stick to their formulas. In the case of Uniqlo, like those valuable insights from Mutterlein, those collaborations are meant to expand their still tiny markets outside Asia. If we look at Greater China, one of its primary markets, those collaborations still fail to make a big splash because the majority of its customers don't have any fashion knowledge about those designers. And they just want high-quality and affordable clothing that can last for a long time and not mention that the price range of those collaborations is out of touch. In general, Uniqlo can benefit from collaborating with Sander and Lemaire if they want the aura of European sensibilities, but I still think that it should focus on its artisanal spirit instead borrowing those designer names.

 

[Phuel]

The menswear is all sorts of hideous. Ugly shape on the pants, horrible color palette, horrible color combinations, and silly prints.

At least that’s consistent with Uniqlo’s menswear LOL

The women’s— whether that’s Lemaire’s U line, or a superior collab like Jil’s, can easily fit into a stylish woman’s wardrobe right next to her designer looks, if she knows which pieces to pull from.

Unfortunately, the men’s— from Lemaire’s U line to every single collab, has been consistently frumpy, dumpy, and either designed for a 7yo boy, or his retired, pear-shaped grandfather. The rolley-poley silhouettes are just hideous. Maybe @Mutterlein can shed some light on this brand strategy: Why the women’s, from in-house to designer collab offering is always inclusive of some high concept, while the men’s is so… pedestrian. I suspect it’s as simple, straightforward as that this homely, shapeless silhouette is what sells to their male customers. Unfortunate, because I am so envious of the higher-end concepts that’s so mostly consistent, bountiful and so gorgeous for their womenswear.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

At least that’s consistent with Uniqlo’s menswear LOL

The women’s— whether that’s Lemaire’s U line, or a superior collab like Jil’s, can easily fit into a stylish woman’s wardrobe right next to her designer looks, if she knows which pieces to pull from.

Unfortunately, the men’s— from Lemaire’s U line to every single collab, has been consistently frumpy, dumpy, and either designed for a 7yo boy, or his retired, pear-shaped grandfather. The rolley-poley silhouettes are just hideous. Maybe @Mutterlein can shed some light on this brand strategy: Why the women’s, from in-house to designer collab offering is always inclusive of some high concept, while the men’s is so… pedestrian. I suspect it’s as simple, straightforward as that this homely, shapeless silhouette is what sells to their male customers. Unfortunate, because I am so envious of the higher-end concepts that’s so mostly consistent, bountiful and so gorgeous for their womenswear.

First, Uniqlo U has its own separate design team based in Paris. It works autonomously and is separate from the Tokyo mothership. Christophe Lemaire oversees the men's, Sarah-Linh Tran oversees the women's. Uniqlo U pretty much follows the fit and silhouettes used in the Lemaire collection. The Uniqlo U patternmaker actually came from Yohji Yamamoto and you'll find a lot of similarities in the fit. Personally, I love the relaxed and oversized look.

In general, UNIQLO's business is Japan-first in its mindset, and right now their menswear trends favor more relaxed and oversized silhouettes. The fit for the men's core collection is a convergence of Uniqlo U's influence on the core collection, the popularity of '90s-inspired streetwear, and Japan's pre-existing predilection for looser, more spacious garments.

I don't really know what you mean by "higher-end concept" for its womenswear. It's actually funny to me that you like their womenswear as it's almost unanimously considered by its customers in Japan, China and Korea and internally within the company to be weaker than their men's. UNIQLO has a reputation for being for aunties and grandmas. The UNIQLO's women's customer is a lot older and not as hip as its men's.

What you might be noticing is Rebekka Bay's influence on UNIQLO's core collection. Her impact was subdued but she definitely helped to elevate some of the range. She's no longer there and I think this year is where we start to see her influence leave the collection.

Regarding the designer collaborations, while they obviously need to cater to a broader audience the fit is at the discretion of the guest designer. And they do differ quite a bit between them.

 

[tricotineacetat]

First, Uniqlo U has its own separate design team based in Paris. It works autonomously and is separate from the Tokyo mothership. Christophe Lemaire oversees the men's, Sarah-Linh Tran oversees the women's. Uniqlo U pretty much follows the fit and silhouettes used in the Lemaire collection. The Uniqlo U patternmaker actually came from Yohji Yamamoto and you'll find a lot of similarities in the fit. Personally, I love the relaxed and oversized look.

In general, UNIQLO's business is Japan-first in its mindset, and right now their menswear trends favor more relaxed and oversized silhouettes. The fit for the men's core collection is a convergence of Uniqlo U's influence on the core collection, the popularity of '90s-inspired streetwear, and Japan's pre-existing predilection for looser, more spacious garments.

I don't really know what you mean by "higher-end concept" for its womenswear. It's actually funny to me that you like their womenswear as it's almost unanimously considered by its customers in Japan, China and Korea and internally within the company to be weaker than their men's. UNIQLO has a reputation for being for aunties and grandmas. The UNIQLO's women's customer is a lot older and not as hip as its men's.

What you might be noticing is Rebekka Bay's influence on UNIQLO's core collection. Her impact was subdued but she definitely helped to elevate some of the range. She's no longer there and I think this year is where we start to see her influence leave the collection.

Regarding the designer collaborations, while they obviously need to cater to a broader audience the fit is at the discretion of the guest designer. And they do differ quite a bit between them.

I will agree on your sentiments regarding Uniqlo's womenswear identity being a bit underdeveloped and 'older' in point of view than most of the men's options you can find there, particularly with Uniqlo U or +J - I will yet have to see H&M or Zara doing high waisted, pleated trousers with a tapered, ankle length leg, whereas Uniqlo U has consistently had such fashion forward shapes for men since it's very inception. What I will say, though, is that most of these collections do not coordinate very well and therefor will look better when customers make the pieces their own, rather than in the e-commerce photos on Uniqlo's website.

What you mentioned earlier regarding Uniqlo's habit to hire designers who can help them furthering on their existing offering got me thinking that it would be great if they collaborated with a designer with a strong dressmaking skills - Neither Jil Sander nor Lemaire are particularly strong in this category and it would really help if somebody broadened the vision of what Uniqlo womenswear could look like... Designers like Donna Karan, Narciso Rodriguez or Francisco Costa could lend a pure yet effortless sensuality that could feel instantly plausible for Uniqlo.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

First, Uniqlo U has its own separate design team based in Paris. It works autonomously and is separate from the Tokyo mothership. Christophe Lemaire oversees the men's, Sarah-Linh Tran oversees the women's. Uniqlo U pretty much follows the fit and silhouettes used in the Lemaire collection. The Uniqlo U patternmaker actually came from Yohji Yamamoto and you'll find a lot of similarities in the fit. Personally, I love the relaxed and oversized look.

In general, UNIQLO's business is Japan-first in its mindset, and right now their menswear trends favor more relaxed and oversized silhouettes. The fit for the men's core collection is a convergence of Uniqlo U's influence on the core collection, the popularity of '90s-inspired streetwear, and Japan's pre-existing predilection for looser, more spacious garments.

I don't really know what you mean by "higher-end concept" for its womenswear. It's actually funny to me that you like their womenswear as it's almost unanimously considered by its customers in Japan, China and Korea and internally within the company to be weaker than their men's. UNIQLO has a reputation for being for aunties and grandmas. The UNIQLO's women's customer is a lot older and not as hip as its men's.

What you might be noticing is Rebekka Bay's influence on UNIQLO's core collection. Her impact was subdued but she definitely helped to elevate some of the range. She's no longer there and I think this year is where we start to see her influence leave the collection.

Regarding the designer collaborations, while they obviously need to cater to a broader audience the fit is at the discretion of the guest designer. And they do differ quite a bit between them.

i

I will agree on your sentiments regarding Uniqlo's womenswear identity being a bit underdeveloped and 'older' in point of view than most of the men's options you can find there, particularly with Uniqlo U or +J - I will yet have to see H&M or Zara doing high waisted, pleated trousers with a tapered, ankle length leg, whereas Uniqlo U has consistently had such fashion forward shapes for men since it's very inception. What I will say, though, is that most of these collections do not coordinate very well and therefor will look better when customers make the pieces their own, rather than in the e-commerce photos on Uniqlo's website.

What you mentioned earlier regarding Uniqlo's habit to hire designers who can help them furthering on their existing offering got me thinking that it would be great if they collaborated with a designer with a strong dressmaking skills - Neither Jil Sander nor Lemaire are particularly strong in this category and it would really help if somebody broadened the vision of what Uniqlo womenswear could look like... Designers like Donna Karan, Narciso Rodriguez or Francisco Costa could lend a pure yet effortless sensuality that could feel instantly plausible for Uniqlo.

They actually asked Sarah-linh to do a dress capsule a few seasons ago that was very successful. They also have a lot of success with JWA and Ines de la Fressange's dresses.

Also, I think UNIQLO pieces in general coordinate pretty well with each other. I would not use the awful e-commerce styling as a gauge for this . I've worked with stylists on UNIQLO who have also done shows for The Row, Ami, Hermes, Vivienne Westwood, Loewe, who shoot for Vogue, Vogue Homme, Fantastic Man, etc. It all really depends on who is putting it together.

 

[tricotineacetat]

i

They actually asked Sarah-linh to do a dress capsule a few seasons ago that was very successful. They also have a lot of success with JWA and Ines de la Fressange's dresses.

Also, I think UNIQLO pieces in general coordinate pretty well with each other. I would not use the awful e-commerce styling as a gauge for this . I've worked with stylists on UNIQLO who have also done shows for The Row, Ami, Hermes, Vivienne Westwood, Loewe, who shoot for Vogue, Vogue Homme, Fantastic Man, etc. It all really depends on who is putting it together.

Don't you think the positive response on this womenswear is mainly due to Uniqlo's market in western countries being tiny compared to the Asian markets, which is why the product reflects the taste and proportions of Asian customers, first and foremost? The fact that Uniqlo is also working with a designer in the 'modest fashion' department (therewith speaking to markets like Indonesia and Malaysia), rather than to propose something that speaks more clearly with a western aesthetic seems quite telling where the priorities are at, for the moment.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's back with a new season for fall.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Don't you think the positive response on this womenswear is mainly due to Uniqlo's market in western countries being tiny compared to the Asian markets, which is why the product reflects the taste and proportions of Asian customers, first The fact that Uniqlo is also working with a designer in the 'modest fashion' department (therewith speaking to markets like Indonesia and Malaysia), rather than to propose something that speaks more clearly with a western aesthetic seems quite telling where the priorities are at, for the moment.

They have a whole studio and design team based in New York dedicated to the western market. What does that tell you about their priorities? (the Hanah Tajima collection is designed there)

 

[bc collector]

UNIQLO and MARNI 2022年冬コレクション | ユニクロ

The lookbook at the moment is only out on the Japanese and American websites.
Basically, a stripe orgy with a hint of Prada(-ish) ugly chic.

And no menswear in sight...which is a relief, at this point.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Why doesn't uniqlo do a collab with someone who is like cool

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Why doesn't uniqlo do a collab with someone who is like cool

They do! With Lemaire!

But I know what you mean.

I'm surprised there's no menswear and here are my theories why:

A) Yanai-san hated the first collection but already committed to a multi-seaon deal so they scaled this one down to women's. This could be the case but given the amazing sales from spring, it could just mean it's going to come back in 2023 with an even bigger assortment. I'd be very curious to know how the first collection did in Japan and China.

B) They have a men's only collaboration coming for FW 22 and didn't have room in the store for both

C) Yanai-san hated the men's and didn't want another one.

 

[Kite]

EVERYONE on London owns the checked silk pyjama set. I see it on at least one of two people a week. The new collection is cute! I like it.

 

[Drusilla_]

yeah those checks are a bit Prada S/S 2008...in a good way.

 

[vetements]

I really dislike the Marni now so this collaboration does nothing for me. I vaguely remember Marni did a collab with H&M and although the quality wasnt there, I liked it better, simply because it should be what Marni stands for.
Now, the stripes I am seeing now, its shapes and all that flowers are really so revolting

There was a pair of super loose, mustard 3/4 shorts with yellow flowers which is so ugly I wonder how it even passed the merchandising team`s approval when I wouldnt even want to wear it to sleep. It doesnt look flattering on the model, less on any ordinary person.

 

[Drusilla_]

oh yeah there's a visible difference between Consuelo-era Marni (one of the most beloved 'insider' labels of the 00s) and what came after. Risso designs like he has a very surface understanding of what the Marni spirit is i.e. "kooky", but I guess when paired with Uniqlo's calming influence it produces at least a couple of items I like.... ok, I liked the (mainline) spray painted mohair cardigans from last year too but that's about it.

I still like the skirt but I think that's the only thing I liked out of the collab. Patterns are good, but you have to have an eye when using them.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I can't speak to the Japanese or Chinese markets but it seems like the FW 2022 Marni collaboration was a huge failure in the US.

Pieces are marked down to $8 and they're still in ample supply in all colorways.