Marni: The World’s Least Worried Brand
September 28, 2004 - Milan
Fashion people are often accused of frivolity and a lack of interest in the real world, an accusation that one could level against Marni, the wonderful Italian stands for insoussiance and an unworried view of the world.
The rather beautiful collection Marni showed here Tuesday morning was a brilliant exercise in creating a world devoid of angst, imagining one given over to pure beauty. Marni’s deisgner Consuelo Castiglioni has the sunniest disposition of any designer I know and her joy at life breathes out of her clothes.
From the opening looks of playful chequered skirts cut to the knee worn with coopery silk blouses and superbly cut linen jackets and coats with Raglan sleeves, the mood was upbeat and superbly chic. Marni is certainly not a householed name, but word up to the uninitiated, Marni is practically the favorite brand of hundreds of top editors and fashion stylists.
Shown with curved wedges with post hippie finishes, cloth belts sown with crystals, and soft antique brooches, the mood was vintage yet so new. Note to trend setters, if the classic brooch is the must-have accessory of this fall, then next spring make sure it comes in feathers of soft fabrics.
Marni is a subtle phenomena, and its show can be a tad hit a miss. If a silk crumpled faille sheath could look a mess on Karen Elson, then a moment later a similar version was simply superb on Daria Werbowy. Make that a fashion moment, as fashion’s most graceful model swept by in a dress in practically the same hue as her beautiful silver blue eyes.
Few things summed up this colleciton better that the soundtrack, a series of versions of the Beatles classic “Here Comes the Sun.” A tune that suddenly, and unexpectedly brought reality back into the Milan showrrom, for wasn’t one of the tracks sung by none other than Cat Stevens. One of the greatest pop baladeers of the past forty years, Stevens when he was refused entry into the United States, last week by immigration officials. Now when stupid white men re-route a London to New York flight because a man has decided to become a Moslem, then even fashionistas take note.