Matthew Ames S/S 10 New York

[Zazie]

Ok, from seeing his earlier collections, I now remember Ames...his past collections were volumetric and reminiscent of early 80s Issey Miyake. Really loved them, but last fall was a bit disappointing. Quite stunning shapes and layering this time. The construction of these transparent jackets is amazing, giving them an architectural shape. And the YSL colours....

These are all from the blog The Coveted:

 

[Zazie]

I found a video (scroll to bottom of page) here of the finale....breathtaking, well, to me anyways. That not very interesting green jacket over the long yellow dress which looks so "nothing" from the front is pretty stunning in its carapace-like shape in 3-D in the video, if you can catch it. There are many others, eg. the black and white dress that looks white in front and black at the back, the fuschia front and jade green back dress, etc...I had to watch it over and over again to "get" the design. Of course not many share my enthusiasm, I'm often the contrarian on TFS, and this may be no exception. But do feel Ames deserves another look to do his work justice:

http://www.thenunu.com/tag/matthew-ames/

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I'm one of Matthew's biggest fans but I agree with Scott and Kiddo, this isn't getting me too excited. I find a bit too simple. He's channeling Geoffrey Beene and Zoran, which I love, but I'd also love to see more of him.

 

[ForChicSake]

simple & beautiful

 

[Andymoon]

This collection could be made by everyone, it hasn't nothing really special, the fabrics look so plain and lack of life, plus the entire collection is so evening-ish...

 

[MulletProof]

The idea of good clothes is so rudimentary in these times. I feel that clothing needs to speak from a visual and emotional standpt now. Most designers are still relying on the idea that all things of importance lie in the visual aspect of design. Ppl need to feel something other than the desire to want/buy; there needs to be an ineffable connection that truly makes the pieces come alive. As if the pieces are propelling the models forward rather than the opposite. It's not about being shocking or making the loudest/boldest statement, it's just about fluid honesty in the form of clothing.

Great post (as usual), wheneveriwakeup. I always got this sense of mystique while looking at Matthew's work, my uneasiness here is certainly not about minimalism or dimensionality, which I've learned to trust on when it comes to his work.. I just feel like it lacks some soul and breaks a natural sequence that is very clear in his designs. The mood seems to have gone backwards instead of being ahead as he usually is..

Zazie, thanks for being so persuasive! , especially for the side shots and video. Perhaps F/W 09.10 isn't the most representative collection of Ames but when you look at his collection for this summer (link 1, link 2), which is more or less on the same lines of what he's done since the beginning.. something minimal and modern, full of movement, but still holding some sort of mystery and independence.. this for me, feels half-hearted, perhaps I'm overthinking it and it's only Drira's touch what's missing here (is it, mutterlein?), but I don't think it's a question of being able to digest it but maybe.. being unable to move on.

 

[knockturnal]

it's beautiful and very modern but im not dying over it.....i will most definately be keeping my eye on matthew ames from now on though.

 

[bonesandbows]

it's probably more impressive in real life, but it's kind of bland.

 

[retailqueen]

i love the black and white jacket/dress. i would totally wear that

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

Yes, Mullet - it feels absolutely regressive and very 'safe'. Hopefully it's just a misstep; something like 'getting his feet wet', so to speak. He can redefine and add a much needed dose of zest to NY fashion week if he just goes with his innate sense of aesthetics and design.

Ty for those images, Zazie.

 

[212DRESSINGROOM]

Matthew Ames was GORGEOUS in person. The looks aren't translating as nicely as they could in the photographs but everything was light and crisp and a fresh, clean take on what American sportswear is in Matthew Ames world. It was very beautiful.

 

[lyyoxball]

the volume and when they move is look like beautiful.

 

[Scott]

to me that's the thing about matthew....generally his work looks very striking even in mere photos. maybe it's more so because it's catwalk and not that real narrative like we saw in his look-books or when he was doing the installations. i dunno...i just feel like a certain strength is missing.

 

[from: sophia]

I do really like it but I do say its a little Margiela+Jil Sander+ Lanvin just a little but I see it. I liked last season better.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Great post (as usual), wheneveriwakeup. I always got this sense of mystique while looking at Matthew's work, my uneasiness here is certainly not about minimalism or dimensionality, which I've learned to trust on when it comes to his work.. I just feel like it lacks some soul and breaks a natural sequence that is very clear in his designs. The mood seems to have gone backwards instead of being ahead as he usually is..

Zazie, thanks for being so persuasive! , especially for the side shots and video. Perhaps F/W 09.10 isn't the most representative collection of Ames but when you look at his collection for this summer (link 1, link 2), which is more or less on the same lines of what he's done since the beginning.. something minimal and modern, full of movement, but still holding some sort of mystery and independence.. this for me, feels half-hearted, perhaps I'm overthinking it and it's only Drira's touch what's missing here (is it, mutterlein?), but I don't think it's a question of being able to digest it but maybe.. being unable to move on.

I wasn't able to make it to the show this season, so I'm not exactly sure if Drira styled the show but someone already reported that he did. My initial thought was that Drira didn't as well.

The clothes certainly are beautiful, but I felt it needed more oomph, maybe just some clothes that were a bit more realistic. Don't get me wrong, I'm overjoyed that we have Matthew, this just wasn't his strongest statement to date.

And why they didn't hire Matthew for Halston is beyond me.

 

[Zazie]

Matthew Ames was GORGEOUS in person. The looks aren't translating as nicely as they could in the photographs but everything was light and crisp and a fresh, clean take on what American sportswear is in Matthew Ames world. It was very beautiful.

Yes, this is what I felt. I was stunned by some of the backstage images where you can see the 3-dimensional sides and backs but really underwhelmed when I saw the frontal shots at style.com.au. How did he learn to cut and shape like that? There is a beauty here that is otherworldly. Very light and ethereal despite the huge volumes. Pity his show was not even visited by the major press/critics.

He's American but also very similar to early 80s Miyake. From:

http://www.jesuisamy.com/

 

[Zazie]

I wasn't able to make it to the show this season, so I'm not exactly sure if Drira styled the show but someone already reported that he did. My initial thought was that Drira didn't as well.

The clothes certainly are beautiful, but I felt it needed more oomph, maybe just some clothes that were a bit more realistic. Don't get me wrong, I'm overjoyed that we have Matthew, this just wasn't his strongest statement to date.

And why they didn't hire Matthew for Halston is beyond me.

But I know everyone here supports Ames, Scott, Mulletproof, everyone. Mulletproof, thanks so much for the links! I don't blame anyone for being underwhelmed by the flat frontal shots, I was too. He is pretty astonishing as a designer, but not quite commercial, so I guess he's a bit of a dark horse still and too risky for the big brands looking to cash in. By jove, he's talented! I googled more and remember a lot of his past works, the images of them are just breathtaking. If anyone would inherit an American expansiveness in design, it's Ames. His clothes make you dream of horizons, of skies, of bigger things.

 

[Zazie]

to me that's the thing about matthew....generally his work looks very striking even in mere photos. maybe it's more so because it's catwalk and not that real narrative like we saw in his look-books or when he was doing the installations. i dunno...i just feel like a certain strength is missing.

I would really look forward to editorials and his lookbook - I think the clothes would be done more justice there. I wish they'd load a better video as well. It could be he lightened up a lot for spring, and pared down his previous layers, so lacking the same drama. It's too bad not many fashion critics attended his show and shot more pictures - the style.com ones are so poor.


When compared to previous summers (re Mulletpoof's links),I'd say that he's changed his materials so that it's no longer a heavier drape jersey and gathers, dramatic in the volume and weight, but a silk chiffon taffeta "ballooning" of volume. The clothes just float in shapes that he has cut and constructed, like a transparent cocoon that encases the model. Their walking movement really brings the clothes alive as "air" fills and moves them.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Yes, this is what I felt. I was stunned by some of the backstage images where you can see the 3-dimensional sides and backs but really underwhelmed when I saw the frontal shots at style.com.au. How did he learn to cut and shape like that? There is a beauty here that is otherworldly. Very light and ethereal despite the huge volumes. Pity his show was not even visited by the major press/critics.

He's American but also very similar to early 80s Miyake. From:

http://www.jesuisamy.com/

if you look at Ames' own blog you can see his references
http://journal.matthewames.com/2009/08/29/issey-and-irving/

Personally I thought of Geoffrey Beene and Zoran, the American Minimalists.

 

[YEYOUSUOMENG]

simple but amazing!