Matthew M. Williams - Designer

[Cocteau Stone]

^ They do well in their microcosms, they’re all just evolved forms of the late to mid 2000s fashion ninja after they discovered Berlin (cafe and clubs/Berghain). Eventually they have to evolve to another thing as the aesthetic wanes so I think this must be his attempt at doing that.

I’ve just never understood Nick Knight’s support for Williams/Alyx. Not that I think it’s a problem, it just seems so odd.

 

[visvim2001]

Emil is experimental-gimmicky and derivative, but you can’t deny they use cutting edge textiles, maybe more so than stone island, with a strong focus on silhouettes. ACW I never liked. People are wising up to the fact that $300 for a logo tee or $500 for a cotton hoodie with a picture of a bird is robbery, not fashion. I don’t think MMW’s vernacular extends beyond that and putting buckles where they don’t really belong.

 

[j02215]

My big question is what happened to Alyx. They were doing so well in the late 10s/early 20s: collaborations everywhere, blockbuster runway show, super loyal menswear clientele. Did the botched Givenchy gig really burn him that much?

I think it was simply a bubble and it burst.

Hopefully it’s becoming crystal clear that a brand/designer is doomed if their primary demographics are hype beasts..these consumers will chew you up, spit you out, and move on to the next trend/up and coming brands.

 

[Nimsay]

I think we are overlooking the fact that the newer DH signature buckle is the Alix buckle making the Alix stuff look like a dupe brand to the public now.

 

[visvim2001]

the main limitation facing these hypebeasty designers is not necessarily their lack of formal fashion training, but rather that they are wedded too deeply to a particular celebrity culture (cough Kanye) that narrows their creative output. That’s why new guards group is bankrupt, Ye is selling Nazi tees, and nobody is interested in supreme anymore.

in the case of some OG streetwear brands in Japan, I think Bape/Nigo has been plugging away at it for a long time now and despite terrible financial mismanagement the brand still has some relevance. Nigo is a talented designer and marketer who has broadened his oeuvre to include smart casual clothing and lifestyle goods. Ditto for visvim, of course, that started off as a rather hyped up brand with sick designs (the Mayan sneakers made me the coolest kid in junior high) but has somehow morphed into a hilariously overpriced Americana brand. On the American front FOG is also worth a mention. I think they’ll do okay for some time to come. Just food for thought.