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Mannikin
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No Fall 2004 Couture Show For Givenchy
Insider says smart move
Wednesday, April 28, 2004
French fashion house Givenchy has announced that it will not present an haute couture collection for the fall 2004 Paris couture season (July 6-9) because no successor to former artistic director Julien Macdonald has been selected. Newly appointed CEO Marco Gobbetti, who came from Moschino, said in a release that he is still searching for that “rare pearl” and wanted to take the time to “attentively choose the future artistic director for the haute couture and ready-to-wear women’s collections.” A well-placed source has indicated that Narciso Rodriguez (who seems to be the lead contender for every top design job out there) and Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz are both serious picks as Macdonald’s replacement.
Givenchy has also refrained from shooting a fall ready-to-wear ad campaign this year. The company statement declared “there will be no press presentation in July, but a small collection of 20 or so pieces created by the in-house design team will be shown to select clients.” Macdonald showed his last haute couture collection for Givenchy on July 8, 2003.
“I don’t think their decision is a bad one,” said Harper’s Bazaar contributing fashion editor Mary Alice Stephenson, who has worked closely with Givenchy because she styles friend and face of Givenchy beauty Liv Tyler for the beauty campaign and many of her public functions. “I believe it’s better to introduce their new designer in the most elegant and professional way and more importantly, to take their time in reshuffling and reorganizing their team.” Macdonald’s successor will represent the third replacement the house has had in recent years—starting with Alexander McQueen. “They have to find the right designer, who will have the right fit with the company,” Stephenson added. “The person they appoint has to be there for the company for the long run—otherwise, [they will look] wishy-washy. It’s more important that they show a collection that’s tightly presented.” (Ditto.)
While Givenchy searches for Macdonald’s replacement, Ozwald Boateng, the new artistic director of Givenchy Homme, will present his debut collection at the Paris men’s shows, which are scheduled from July 2-5.
From THE DAILY.
