Riccardo Tisci - Designer

[Deleted member 143975]

I liked his Burberry much more than Daniel's. The bourgeois part of Tisci's collection was always so beautiful. I actually wish he hadn't included the streetwear, it was often too gimmicky.

 

[Deleted member 164735]

I’m sure of he won’t get Balenciaga or any other house as he became irrelevant.

Curious to understand why he's presumably irrelevant nowadays? Because he's out of the scene not on the forefront of a massive fashion maison or because of creative direction choices in the past? Not trying to start an argument at all just trying to understand lol

 

[tourbillions]

i dont understand how the guy who pushed for streetwear and oversized shorts and t shirts at a time where everyone was into skinny jeans and glamour is now irrelevant. Although his streetwear at burberry were at times gimmicky, its still way more fashion forward and more complex than many brands doing streetwear at the moment. it was honest and not something that makes fun of the people consuming it.

I dont even remember Burberry sales being reported to be on negative during his tenure.

 

[velvetandsilk]

He is party boy right now.

 

[Olaffo]

Curious to understand why he's presumably irrelevant nowadays? Because he's out of the scene not on the forefront of a massive fashion maison or because of creative direction choices in the past? Not trying to start an argument at all just trying to understand lol

I like you all too much guys and girls and everything in between to argue

I think he missed his opportunity to keep the momentum: he had chance at Versace which he essentially rejected and Burberry was (imho) not up to his own standards. It’s hard for me to imagine big fashion house to make an investment and set expectations for him to make 5 collections / year and get back in that mill. What’s also visible is, and unfortunately I’ve got first hand experience myself, is his complicated lifestyle which had an impact on his work and quality of that work. We adore him but him from 2016, not sure if we’d still in 2026. But again, that’s just me.

 

[MagFan]

Surprised to see people genuinely dislike Tiscis Burberry.. i dont know if its me or my perception of whats desirable has changed but when i look back at his burberry collections and RTW in particular i realize that it was alluring and sensible in my opinion. maybe times were different and of course whats fashionable and needed was also different but it definitely wasnt horrific. i also think that campaigns, casting and set and store designs played a huge role (for me anyway)
Tisci was also PRd very well whereas Daniel for example is nowhere to be seen with his cool mates and Bolle

He was Michele of the past. His Burberry was not any different from Givenchy like Valentino from Gucci

 

[Deleted member 164735]

I like you all too much guys and girls and everything in between to argue

I think he missed his opportunity to keep the momentum: he had chance at Versace which he essentially rejected and Burberry was (imho) not up to his own standards. It’s hard for me to imagine big fashion house to make an investment and set expectations for him to make 5 collections / year and get back in that mill. What’s also visible is, and unfortunately I’ve got first hand experience myself, is his complicated lifestyle which had an impact on his work and quality of that work. We adore him but him from 2016, not sure if we’d still in 2026. But again, that’s just me.

i think he can still make it though, he has an amazing cv and hes still memorable by the industry thats for sure.. if an unknown ancora boy did it and hasnt been forgotten Tisci can do it too but vice versa ha ( not comparing them lol)
the question is does he want to return to being a CD i wonder?

 

[Lola701]

i think he can still make it though, he has an amazing cv and hes still memorable by the industry thats for sure.. if an unknown ancora boy did it and hasnt been forgotten Tisci can do it too but vice versa ha ( not comparing them lol)
the question is does he want to return to being a CD i wonder?

Of course he wants to.
Someone like Ancora has spent the majority of his career being a number 2. Being a number 2 was maybe an achievement or even a chance. History has proven to a lot of people that everybody cannot be a CD. So when you are seasoned CD, and on top of that a designer who has achieved things, it’s such a comfortable position to be in.

À Riccardo Tisci at a Couture house is someone in his element. Just in terms of pure creativity to make clothes, you don’t have to fight in terms of budget to achieve things. I know some of you here romanticize the idea of starting new and small and all…But if at 50+, after years of career, things like comfort in depressing your creativity aren’t owed to you in a way, what’s the point?

I was always uncomfortable when he did those Couture gowns at Burberry. There was no absolute point in this.

But for me, true talents in design are always relevant. It’s not because something doesn’t touch me that it’s not relevant. And I think the fashion landscape is in need of singular and experienced voices.

I think that giving the position to Riccardo would almost prove that Pinault got some sense sometimes. And now his strategy of elevation would make sense. And his maybe time for the man to end his holidays lol.

And in reality, I have never liked Balenciaga in terms of Art Direction since Nicolas left. I hope Riccardo would fix this (and not use Helvetica).

 

[tourbillions]

well i dont want to be too comfortable that he is actually going to balenciaga.. until i see it. Someone said that riccardo going to burberry was like michele at valentino... I beg to disagree. I would say it was more like ghesquire at louis vuitton. Although not as financially successful. The bougie parts of this collections for Burberry had a lot of delicious outerwear that he would not have done for givenchy. It was a very strong fashion proposition for a brand like burberry. That's why on the other hand he had to come up with a monogram and a logo that would satisfy that clientele of burberry. And he did successfully either retain or grow burberry's asian clients.

If he did accept a new CD role, his first collection will be very very important. We will all see if he has grown as a designer, retained the same-old or has completely renewed his aesthetic after the years of partying (like pilati).

Being very social is not always bad in fashion, how else will he see the current trends?

 

[Lola701]

Being very social is not always bad in fashion, how else will he see the current trends?

It’s even great. The whole Ivory Tower à la Saint Laurent is not really thrilling.

In fashion it’s more about the environment than the actions. Designers partying has always existed. They just don’t have to be toxic about it….Because it influences their work.
What they are trying to recreate at McQueen now is the feeling of his party years for example.

I remember I don’t know where actually, but Colin McDowell made that comment about the Caten brothers and the fact that they lived in London and questioned if London was that great for creativity.

We sees every season more and more the influence of L.A. in NG’s work at Vuitton for example. Sweatpants in cashmere maybe but still sweatpants and a very less « in control » silhouette.

I’m very curious to see how those travels influenced him even more considering that he didn’t travelled for « research » a la Galliano.

Im manifesting Riccardo at Balenciaga much like I manifested Haider at Tom Ford.
But if Gobbetti ends up somewhere, he may reconnect with Riccardo again.

 

[tourbillions]

It’s even great. The whole Ivory Tower à la Saint Laurent is not really thrilling.

In fashion it’s more about the environment than the actions. Designers partying has always existed. They just don’t have to be toxic about it….Because it influences their work.
What they are trying to recreate at McQueen now is the feeling of his party years for example.

I remember I don’t know where actually, but Colin McDowell made that comment about the Caten brothers and the fact that they lived in London and questioned if London was that great for creativity.

We sees every season more and more the influence of L.A. in NG’s work at Vuitton for example. Sweatpants in cashmere maybe but still sweatpants and a very less « in control » silhouette.

I’m very curious to see how those travels influenced him even more considering that he didn’t travelled for « research » a la Galliano.

Im manifesting Riccardo at Balenciaga much like I manifested Haider at Tom Ford.
But if Gobbetti ends up somewhere, he may reconnect with Riccardo again.

all these new fashion girlies sds, maximilliano, mcqueen guy, bruno sialleli, all need to get out of their studios and get a life. Whether good or bad, they need more life experiences to find themselves as designers. Then maybe they could start creating shows with personalities.

 

[Simera]

I think Tisci and Burberry was better than what we are getting now. Again, he’s my favorite, so maybe bias.

 

[Creative]

He was never a favourite of mine but I think he would’ve bring Gucci to relevance again. I wonder if he was asked.

 

[Salvatore]

Im manifesting Riccardo at Balenciaga much like I manifested Haider at Tom Ford.

Work your magic !!
I'm right behind you ! Since he didn't get Versace or Gucci, I'd be happy with him at Balenciaga.

 

[reese06]

well i dont want to be too comfortable that he is actually going to balenciaga.. until i see it. Someone said that riccardo going to burberry was like michele at valentino... I beg to disagree. I would say it was more like ghesquire at louis vuitton. Although not as financially successful. The bougie parts of this collections for Burberry had a lot of delicious outerwear that he would not have done for givenchy. It was a very strong fashion proposition for a brand like burberry. That's why on the other hand he had to come up with a monogram and a logo that would satisfy that clientele of burberry. And he did successfully either retain or grow burberry's asian clients.

If he did accept a new CD role, his first collection will be very very important. We will all see if he has grown as a designer, retained the same-old or has completely renewed his aesthetic after the years of partying (like pilati).

Being very social is not always bad in fashion, how else will he see the current trends?

Being social is great if it influences your work in a positive way and services your creativity but his wasn’t Tisci going to Africa and or some exotic location and then being inspired by that. Tisci was phoning it in. That said, I liked much of his Burberry, bought a few pieces and still wear them, the quality is superb.
On the menswear front, I might dare to say that his givenchy collections were more memorable in image but his Burberry stronger in terms of actual pieces to buy and design. He made some great outerwear and really strong men’s wardrobe

Maybe I’m contradicting myself a bit with my statements

Edit: and now this has given me the urge to hunt for some Burberry pieces by Tisci on the secondary market today

 

[Overindulgence]

The hunky men casted in the recent Balenciaga F/W 2025 show made me think of Riccardo Tisci's mens casting. I think he would be great at Balenciaga if his years off would lead to some creative, or at least work drive, revitalization. But going from being treated well by LVMH (he's the only designer to get a tribute show made by the studio that I know of), to Burberry for the paycheck, to now Kering doesn't seem like the most logical move. But who knows anymore, anything could happen.

 

[Phuel]

His Givenchy menswear was always just a blatant ripoff— or extension, of classic Gaultier, down to the kilt over trousers and the cast of handsome, macho-masculine men with Superman physiques. Throwing in some graphical seasonal streetwear prints every season doesn’t hide that straigtup cop. And his Burberry menswear was just repurposed classic Helmut Lang — in nova check, with Gaultier’s cast of ethnically-diverse handsome men. In that sense, his menswear are solid wardrobe staples that relied on the brandings to provide the cache.

Riccardo’s talented of course, just that Olivier always is/was so much stronger with that vision of highly fevered dark romance— and he’s shown that he’s solid with his skills in cutting leather, whether for dramatic effects displayed for his own label or a more pragmatic wearability he showed with Theory— without the reliance on top-moneyed campaigns and top models/celeb BFFs. (...Olivier doesn’t have the stench of the Kardashians on him, to boot.) If it weren’t for the Burberry money that kept Riccardo’s watered-down Givenchy designs on the forefront, no one would remember any of his Burberry-era efforts. If it’s not laziness, then it’s definitely minimum effort. If he returns, I hope he’s renewed and refreshed in his efforts, and not just coasting by his Givenchy days, again. But if he never designs again, oh well, party on, I guess.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Riccardo breakthrough came before the Kardashian. Come on…
He was a star in fashion, through his work before the validation of celebrities…Celebrities he was one of the few first to embrace in reality.
Olivier had the support of Madonna when she was still an influence in culture and it didn’t necessary matter when it was time for him to make better choices in his career.

Two very different designers and circumstances. If Riccardo didn’t have MariaCarla and Carine by his side, his career would have been totally different.

 

[tourbillions]

its so easy to put olivier in a pedestal but these days who really knows his work anymore? His few attempts to become big, did not really happen. Ofcourse fashion is not all about the clout or followers but they still need to make some kind of commercial success. Im not sure if olivier ever got that with his oh so amazing skills. Even at theyskens theory, people were not so much aware of his existence. Or maybe im just dumb and he has a cult following like rick owens that i dont know of.

it will be hard to seperate fashion and pop culture. As the best way to show off their work is through celebrities and these days influencers. Tisci was the first to acknowledge that by having the kardashians but at the same time he didn't lose his fashion credibility as he always had top models in his wolfpack.

These days its all about vloggers and kpop stars who mostly cant wear clothes that were not planned by their stylists. And they are not even chosen by the designers themselves, they are ambassadors chosen by the suits with 0 connection to the creative director. Very much far from what tisci had with his pack. Maybe this is why fashion has lost any personality, its so rare to find that designer + muse dynamic.

 

[kingtheyskens]

i don't think anyone who truly cares about or is deeply interested in fashion will be bothered that the average joe doesn't know who olivier theyskens is. he's an extraordinarily talented designer, certainly one of the greatest still with us. i think that alone has enough value for true followers of fashion lol