Matthieu Blazy - Designer, Creative Director of Chanel

[PDFSD]

since we talking about cist cutting at luxury brands like chanel :

THE LUXURY SHIELD: The Italian Fashion Law No One Talks About

While the Milan prosecutor's office investigates 13 luxury brands, a quiet legislative battle could redefine responsibility in global fashion supply chains.

Italy is considering a voluntary certification for fashion supply chains, which, according to civil society organizations, could become a "legal shield" that would allow brands to avoid criminal liability even when cases of exploitation are found in their laboratories.

The numbers are shocking:

• 78% of inspected Italian textile laboratories found violations in 2024

• Workers earn €3-5 an hour ($3.20-$5.30) producing luxury goods

• A €95 billion industry built on increasingly opaque supply chains

While Europe moves toward mandatory due diligence, Italy risks going in the opposite direction, creating a system in which certification replaces responsibility.

This isn't just an Italian problem. It concerns the future of ethical luxury, the credibility of "Made in Italy," and whether or not to accept that the bag sold in Manhattan was made by someone who worked 14-hour days for starvation wages.
This is exactly the point nobody in the industry wants to face.
Italy is discussing a “voluntary certification” that risks becoming a protective shield for brands a way to outsource responsibility instead of taking it.

From inside the manufacturing system, I can say this clearly: the problem is not the lack of certificates.

The problem is the lack of fair prices, realistic lead times, and genuine accountability.

When brands demand unsustainable costs, 14-hour shifts and illegal outsourcing are not “accidents” they are the direct consequence of how the supply chain is structured.

If 78% of inspected labs show violations, it is not because the industry suddenly became criminal.
It’s because the system rewards the ones who cut corners and punishes the ones who stay legal.

A voluntary certification will not fix this.
It will simply formalize a façade of control while real responsibility keeps moving downward to the weakest link.

 

[jeanclaude]

since we talking about cist cutting at luxury brands like chanel :

THE LUXURY SHIELD: The Italian Fashion Law No One Talks About

While the Milan prosecutor's office investigates 13 luxury brands, a quiet legislative battle could redefine responsibility in global fashion supply chains.

Italy is considering a voluntary certification for fashion supply chains, which, according to civil society organizations, could become a "legal shield" that would allow brands to avoid criminal liability even when cases of exploitation are found in their laboratories.

The numbers are shocking:

• 78% of inspected Italian textile laboratories found violations in 2024

• Workers earn €3-5 an hour ($3.20-$5.30) producing luxury goods

• A €95 billion industry built on increasingly opaque supply chains

While Europe moves toward mandatory due diligence, Italy risks going in the opposite direction, creating a system in which certification replaces responsibility.

This isn't just an Italian problem. It concerns the future of ethical luxury, the credibility of "Made in Italy," and whether or not to accept that the bag sold in Manhattan was made by someone who worked 14-hour days for starvation wages.
This is exactly the point nobody in the industry wants to face.
Italy is discussing a “voluntary certification” that risks becoming a protective shield for brands a way to outsource responsibility instead of taking it.

From inside the manufacturing system, I can say this clearly: the problem is not the lack of certificates.

The problem is the lack of fair prices, realistic lead times, and genuine accountability.

When brands demand unsustainable costs, 14-hour shifts and illegal outsourcing are not “accidents” they are the direct consequence of how the supply chain is structured.

If 78% of inspected labs show violations, it is not because the industry suddenly became criminal.
It’s because the system rewards the ones who cut corners and punishes the ones who stay legal.

A voluntary certification will not fix this.
It will simply formalize a façade of control while real responsibility keeps moving downward to the weakest link.

They are a fu.cking mafia...!

 

[jeanclaude]

Source: rednote, W magazine.

View attachment 1442571

-"Ok, girls, playtime is over! Now let´s put back grandma´s clothes in her closet, please!".

 

[Kimihiro]

-"Ok, girls, playtime is over! Now let´s put back grandma´s clothes in her closet, please!".

…Grandma’s Chanel might actually be more flattering.

 

[jeanclaude]

…Grandma’s Chanel might actually be more flattering.

Totally!!

 

[psychopsist]

Source: rednote, W magazine.

View attachment 1442571

I think the far left looks pretty nice tbh…but the second and third…? those overly sharp and boxy cuts just do not work. Ugly and unflattering aren’t even really the words I would use… more like odd, incongruous? even alien. I guess boxy is actually the best word, because the squareness looks kinda suffocating.

The problem is the lack of fair prices, realistic lead times, and genuine accountability.

When brands demand unsustainable costs, 14-hour shifts and illegal outsourcing are not “accidents” they are the direct consequence of how the supply chain is structured.

If 78% of inspected labs show violations, it is not because the industry suddenly became criminal.
It’s because the system rewards the ones who cut corners and punishes the ones who stay legal.

and 100%. Really bothersome when people frame these facts as accidents, as though the c suiters are slipping on banana peels and dropping the livable wages they totally meant to pay.

Also, the focus on whether or not this system is “sustainable” sometimes feels incomplete to me too. Don’t get me wrong I use that word too… but like what if it was sustainable? What if it’s perfectly viable for things to stay exactly as they are, forever? A eternity of blood sweat and tears paid for in cents. Would that make it okay? I think no. At a certain point it’s a conversation about the value of human life and dignity.

Cause as much as I love fashion, that essential dignity isn’t stored in clothes… clothes protect, reflect, and elevate(ideally) but it is ultimately people who matter and are truly precious, invaluable, and irreplaceable. Including garment workers and factory laborers I’ll never meet.

 

[Creative]

In the showrooms when you see the new products they scream cheap most of the times… not only Chanel but every brand. I saw a new bag from a brand that, at most, cost price would be around 40/70€. It was the cheapest thing I’ve ever seen. Funny thing is that they are selling it quite well. 🤣

As I say many times, luxury in 2025 is not a quality thing. 99,9% of the times it sells status to people that need external validation.

It is sad because I feel it’s a no return road. Once you decrease quality you are never coming back. And since clients do not really care much, they are free to do whatever they want.

 

[Caffeine]

In the showrooms when you see the new products they scream cheap most of the times… not only Chanel but every brand. I saw a new bag from a brand that, at most, cost price would be around 40/70€. It was the cheapest thing I’ve ever seen. Funny thing is that they are selling it quite well. 🤣

As I say many times, luxury in 2025 is not a quality thing. 99,9% of the times it sells status to people that need external validation.

It is sad because I feel it’s a no return road. Once you decrease quality you are never coming back. And since clients do not really care much, they are free to do whatever they want.

I am less pessimistic. We can always go use a different brand or have things made bespoke. Like I feel no loyalty to any brands. When Nicholas left Balenciaga I stopped shopping there. If his Vuitton rtw was poorly made I wouldn't have spent a penny.

 

[Creative]

I am less pessimistic. We can always go use a different brand or have things made bespoke. Like I feel no loyalty to any brands. When Nicholas left Balenciaga I stopped shopping there. If his Vuitton rtw was poorly made I wouldn't have spent a penny.

Thing is that RTW is just an image thing… they don’t produce much, at LV how much does it represent in the mix? 4%? In a certain RTW brand at LVMH is just 10%, I think 4% is realistic.

Where brands make the money is in the accessories and that’s where the cuts are. RTW is more for connoisseurs, a tiny part of the clients buy RTW.

But even in RTW quality decreased a lot. You just need to see the cashmere Dior made under MGC or the plastic skirts… the windbreakers… Prada RTW and MiuMiu are terribly made as well. And I’m not even going to talk about a certain RTW brand… because I can’t even understand how they produce such things and sell them for several thousands.

The only brand I feel has quality in LG aside Hermès is BV. The products feel rich and well made, but maybe as PDF said it’s because of the weaving.

The poor Chanel bag with the two ears on the sides (the Dua Lipa one) feels like a 500€ bag when you touch it. 🥲

Although I feel buying LG from a fashion brand in 2025 is cheap. I’d only buy BV. Not even Hermès because their products feel like Rolex or like a Cartier love bracelet. Very cheap.

The SL bags for instance 🤯 they feel like from the dollar store.

 

[Melancholybaby]

I'm really curious if anyone here has been at a re-see of S/S 2026 or Métiers d'Art and what they thought of the RTW and LG quality.