Matthieu Blazy - Designer, Creative Director of Chanel

[Lola701]

the silhouette in commercial collection totally his silhouettes ala balenciaga days as well sure but its so monogram heavy there is like no middle ground its or too edgy or more real but monogred to death your a walking trunk always lol

his clothes needs a bit of less over design and balance of reality giving the eye some rest and the silhouettes space to be human form at times with in a show.

i love odd and new etc but not in a meaningless way in high fashion.

I am curious what you will get from the Chanel RTW collection i really looking forward to seeing the ladies i follow that buy and show fits in Chanel changing rooms react to the clothes and fit and proportions.

Hmm…
He has been at Vuitton for 12 years and I think the only monogram pieces I have are on bags. And when I say bags, it’s really the Dora for his first few seasons and 4 petites malles.
It’s really what you make up of it. I don’t mind a little écusson, or even that coated canvas monogram tab they put on knitwear or some outerwear but that’s it.

I can only speak for me and the women I know who wears Vuitton. I like NG’s clothes so from runway to boutique, I have experienced the whole thing. He still makes the best coats and he can cut a mean pair of pants. The most I can do is when they are doing the foulards inspired silk pieces.

So there’s a middle ground. You just have to want or care for it. Someone who doesn’t care about NG doesn’t have to care about the middle ground and a Vuitton fan wants to let people know they are wearing Vuitton…

Tbh, overtime, I kind of like that his stuff is not so much out there. Balenciaga either wasn’t really for everybody. Yes people bought the motorcycle jackets and bags but you had to be into his clothes to go deeper…

And Balenciaga demanded more from us. The cut at Vuitton is slightly more loose, he has stopped pushing so much for fabrics development.

About Chanel…
Chanel is not really a brand I can make huge wishlist at lol.
I really want one of the opening tweed pantsuits. I love look 67 but while it’s something I will try I don’t think I will buy it. I love the sheer organza skirts too but I won’t pay Chanel prices for them.

However, I’m a victime de la mode so I placed options on the multicolored chevron bag and a Chanel/Charvet shirt. No pre-order but when it hits the stores I’ll have to hurry to get them.

But really I will see what is produced and what I’m willing to pay.
The last time I bought a Chanel RTW piece, it was 5 years ago. It was a Karl piece and it was tough to spend lol. Literally buying Karl’s Fendi and Chanel was a totally different experience. A blouse at Chanel was the price of a dress at Fendi lol

So yes I’m waiting. Hopefully I will get a suit. Either way the bag and the shirt but there are always gems in the commercial collection.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Nobody said it isn't visual. I just find your comparisons preposterous.

You need to understand that even when you transpose a shape or technique to a different context, you need discerniment. Blazy is bringing things he finds fitting for Chanel, like the play with textures, the trompe l'oil illusions where tweed assumes different skins, and different fabrics that are made to look like tweed, the loose shapes, the witty pompons that have the spirit of Karl 's showpieces. Every element is there because he thinks it makes sense for Chanel. You can disagree with that, as I can disagree that Chanel was "overrided" by Blazy elements.

With Chanel, the design process has to be circular. Blazy can go as far away from Gabrielle as he desire, but he always should arrive back at Rue Cambon. That was the deal. And that's how Karl operated , and Karl went to places Gabriele would not step foot.

I lost count how many times Karl Lagerfeld did fabric manipulation or elaborate embroidery mimicing tweed, in particular since Chanel purchased all the storied, Parisian artisan workshops back in the early 2000s - It‘s not new at all and worst of all, Blazy‘s take on that looks unrefined - Something hinting at a lack of experience or at least to push those artisans towards a result that feels refined as you expect from a house that enjoys such an unprecedented standing in the industry as Chanel does.

I know sone of you will passionately disagree but what‘s the use of 'newness' when all these attempts to rejuvenate do not lead to a straight forward conventionally-pretty product Chanel's average customer can understand? I don't need to even mention Hedi Slimane in this equation again, I would even consider Richard Quinn to come up with a Chanel that would look more refined and making better use of the incredible resources at hand when you work for a brand of this calibre.

 

[tricotineacetat]

in SPRING 2014 🤭 😂
i think he is stuck in this moment:
art gallery lady jaring colors and abstract prints layers over skirts, mid waste overall oddness in proportions , chokers funky of shoulders oversized coats the style of shoes he keeps using is form this collection as well same square toes low mid heel, tartan woven , fraying crafty look , leather fringe poms poms its all in this one collection of Phoebe etc etc
all part of the Blazy starter pack :

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I hate this aesthetic with passion - Doesn‘t matter if we assign it to Philo, Blazy or in it's ten times recycled form at Proenza Schouler/New Loewe - Worst of all, it makes no sense at all in the context of Chanel!

I don't know if all of her well-known disciples (Blazy, Lee, Rider) only joined Celine after she had already shown the first few collections but the sharpness and refinement of her debut collection quickly made space for all the "aRt HoUsE fAsHiOn" her designer offspring still obsesses over today…

 

[tricotineacetat]

Perhaps he should start with observing how a naked, mature woman looks and moves, and then compare a woman before giving birth with a woman after giving birth so that he has a better understanding of the female anatomy? Wouldn't hurt?

When I look at my very own fashion 'education' so to speak, I would say spending years and years on the shop floor with clients, listening to their needs and pinning clothes on a variety of bodies has been the most valuable, quiet asset that has shaped my view on fashion and design.

You are suddenly finding yourself humbled to question proportions that are of no service to a real woman's body that might or might not be as tall, stick-thin, more bust-y or wider-hipped than your average runway model, dealt with responding to the care of particularly delicate fabrics or the comfort of cut and fabrication the majority of high fashion customers never pay attention to.

I am totally aware we are discussing the loftiest heights of luxury fashion on this very forum, so the majority of women who can afford a 10.000€ bouclé jacket will not have to bother about these mundane factors - Yet at the same time, when we look at the motivation for Gabriele Chanel to design clothes, it was to allow for women to dress elegantly while at the same time providing the ease, freedom of movement and comfort until then only associated with menswear.

The one thing I will agree with Matthieu Blazy is that the idea of what Chanel should and could be remains totally modern and befitting to the needs of women even in the 21st century - But perhaps a more pragmatic approach to design, a bit of consideration what Gabrielle Chanel's many daughters in spirit (such as Donna Karan, Jil Sander or Norma Kamali) later also brought to design, would not have hurt.

 

[PDFSD]

Hmm…
He has been at Vuitton for 12 years and I think the only monogram pieces I have are on bags. And when I say bags, it’s really the Dora for his first few seasons and 4 petites malles.
It’s really what you make up of it. I don’t mind a little écusson, or even that coated canvas monogram tab they put on knitwear or some outerwear but that’s it.

I can only speak for me and the women I know who wears Vuitton. I like NG’s clothes so from runway to boutique, I have experienced the whole thing. He still makes the best coats and he can cut a mean pair of pants. The most I can do is when they are doing the foulards inspired silk pieces.

So there’s a middle ground. You just have to want or care for it. Someone who doesn’t care about NG doesn’t have to care about the middle ground and a Vuitton fan wants to let people know they are wearing Vuitton…

Tbh, overtime, I kind of like that his stuff is not so much out there. Balenciaga either wasn’t really for everybody. Yes people bought the motorcycle jackets and bags but you had to be into his clothes to go deeper…

And Balenciaga demanded more from us. The cut at Vuitton is slightly more loose, he has stopped pushing so much for fabrics development.

About Chanel…
Chanel is not really a brand I can make huge wishlist at lol.
I really want one of the opening tweed pantsuits. I love look 67 but while it’s something I will try I don’t think I will buy it. I love the sheer organza skirts too but I won’t pay Chanel prices for them.

However, I’m a victime de la mode so I placed options on the multicolored chevron bag and a Chanel/Charvet shirt. No pre-order but when it hits the stores I’ll have to hurry to get them.

But really I will see what is produced and what I’m willing to pay.
The last time I bought a Chanel RTW piece, it was 5 years ago. It was a Karl piece and it was tough to spend lol. Literally buying Karl’s Fendi and Chanel was a totally different experience. A blouse at Chanel was the price of a dress at Fendi lol

So yes I’m waiting. Hopefully I will get a suit. Either way the bag and the shirt but there are always gems in the commercial collection.

I know he can do really good stuff thats why its frustrating ....the mini details on rtw i don't mind and every collection has some solid pieces with no overt monogram i like parts but in total it's not a home run collection on runway or store ..my ex worked at design office with NG at LV i know the moodboards the translation of experiments to commercial needs ...i even provided artist works as research material that ended in the show .......went to shows even.

But stylistically i am over NG i don't like doing the homework of puzzling parts together in my mind that i like and imagine it how it could be better its too cartoon sci fi with him for years now.

And i was a hardcore fan of his old work even almost made it for internship during his time there at balenciaga but i took a job proposal instead because it was another dream opportunity.

the rigor he had is lost in translation of his shiny LV life , i feel Marc got better when he got richer he embraced his pop and LV luxury life better in his work with Nicolas it had not a reverse effect on his work he became the new pierre cardin tacky out of touch nostalgic futuristic creator

ah you like the finding nemo bag its funny could also been KL so you still have KL in your heart :-)
chanel rtw prices are in there own lane it's always so funny for me when i see the price tags i love the shock of it its like breaking a expensive porcelain its a bit trilling and a rush ..like swiping a card and poof !!!!

 

[PDFSD]

I hate this aesthetic with passion - Doesn‘t matter if we assign it to Philo, Blazy or in it's ten times recycled form at Proenza Schouler/New Loewe - Worst of all, it makes no sense at all in the context of Chanel!

I don't know if all of her well-known disciples (Blazy, Lee, Rider) only joined Celine after she had already shown the first few collections but the sharpness and refinement of her debut collection quickly made space for all the "aRt HoUsE fAsHiOn" her designer offspring still obsesses over today…

I agree i call it gallerist lady syndrome this phoebe era the final years of her at celine,for me even the phoebe version became a cindy sherman pun/cliche archetype for me.

Nonetheless i don't subscribe to idea that because you worked with her like (Blazy, Lee, Rider) therefore you continue to emulate her like you own stock/shares in her design code ...you should have in you a deep urge to do your own thing like a pillati his stuff never looked cleary Prada esk sure colors sens the share quality etc but its not a copy of or even michele at gucci post frida.

Its like Demna short moment at margiela and hijacks the whole concept like some self adopted crown prince to Margiela´s stylistic codes or concepts.

to me these are pinterest designers they take shortcuts to thing that already are loved and pretend its a new take , while its just fan behavior bordering on single white female territory (as mentioned recently before phoebe herself is not happy with the flattery as i know from her circle, unlike coco chanel that wanted to be copied so people would take on her not popular style at the beginning )

 

[Lola701]

I know he can do really good stuff thats why its frustrating ....the mini details on rtw i don't mind and every collection has some solid pieces with no overt monogram i like parts but in total it's not a home run collection on runway or store ..my ex worked at design office with NG at LV i know the moodboards the translation of experiments to commercial needs ...i even provided artist works as research material that ended in the show .......went to shows even.

But stylistically i am over NG i don't like doing the homework of puzzling parts together in my mind that i like and imagine it how it could be better its too cartoon sci fi with him for years now.

And i was a hardcore fan of his old work even almost made it for internship during his time there at balenciaga but i took a job proposal instead because it was another dream opportunity.

the rigor he had is lost in translation of his shiny LV life , i feel Marc got better when he got richer he embraced his pop and LV luxury life better in his work with Nicolas it had not a reverse effect on his work he became the new pierre cardin tacky out of touch nostalgic futuristic creator

ah you like the finding nemo bag its funny could also been KL so you still have KL in your heart :-)
chanel rtw prices are in there own lane it's always so funny for me when i see the price tags i love the shock of it its like breaking a expensive porcelain its a bit trilling and a rush ..like swiping a card and poof !!!!

I totally understand. For me it’s his clothes and his aesthetic overall.
When I watch a NG show, I look at it in many different ways. I can enjoy it from a fashion POV but I have also my « clothes I will buy » eye on it. I just love his clothes and nobody does clothes like him. And I like that.

Sometimes I have disliked some of his collections (FW2017), liked a collection and wanted nothing from it (SS2019), loved a show, loved some pieces but didn’t liked the collection (FW2020).

Balenciaga was different because it was really his world and I like that because you get to be in the head of a designer. It informed about his taste. I loved the stores and everything.

Vuitton is a weird thing. I wasn’t a Vuitton woman before. I liked what Marc did. Like a lot of women in fashion, I bought the It pieces from some collections. But in insight I liked Marc Jacobs for Vuitton. Neither Vuitton, neither Marc itself.
Nicolas eased me into Vuitton (maybe beyond the luggage) and the moment he leaves, I may never care about the brand at all.
I mean I have Vuitton jeans (from his SS2015). If someone told me in 2013 that I would spend that much money on some jeans and that they would have been Vuitton, I would have laughed at their face.

Yes I still have Karl in my heart in some ways with that bag lol. TBH, Karl has done so many things that we can find références everywhere if we want to look very deep into it. It will be interesting on a long run.
We are having so much discussion about the debut show but it’s almost nothing compared to what has to come. Even Blazy’s tenure at BV felt quite short for 3 years.

Chanel prices…Yes! Brace your heart (is that the expression?). It’s outrageous but it has never made sense. I remember I think my first shock was when Karl did the hotpants in sequin. I was shocked by the prices. Then he did the SS2008 and at the time, everybody talked about how commercial the collection was because there were a lot of jeans.
At that time, I was either buying on sales through my girl friend who was working at Chanel or saving months ahead. So I was happy that ok, the collection is full of jeans, it will be more accessible. If I remember at the time, the pinacle for designers jeans were Dior Homme, Notify and there were the capsules from Balenciaga. It was around 290/350€. So I said to myself that they may be like 500€. No need to save for that and there was the jeans jacket worn by Coco Rochas too that was stunning.
When the collection hit the floors, the trousers in jeans were 990€. I still remember it to this day! Insane! The jeans jacket was 2K.
I wasn’t spending that money on jeans so I save to buy the tweed red and white number and some sandals.

I’m always shocked when I look at Chanel prices. Virginie unlocked another level with the 4K cotton t-shirt.

 

[Caffeine]

What happened to Notify? I still have a couple of pairs but really wish that they were still around.

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

I was really waiting for this to see if it would make sense finally. Didn't really happen unfortunately.

 

[PDFSD]

I was really waiting for this to see if it would make sense finally. Didn't really happen unfortunately.

not sure if i can handle this today lol i need to drink wine first and take a stroll in nature

 

[FashionPower]

Usual Prigent video with all buzz and hype and no substance. Lots of words to say basically nothing. No one cares about Kendall saying "it's beautiful" (WOW such a deep and original statement) or Ayo Edibiri loving the finale walk because "you could see the girls walking through the venue of the Grand Palais".
Yawn.

 

[PDFSD]

Usual Prigent video with all buzz and hype and no substance. Lots of words to say basically nothing. No one cares about Kendall saying "it's beautiful" (WOW such a deep and original statement) or Ayo Edibiri loving the finale walk because "you could see the girls walking through the venue of the Grand Palais".
Yawn.

Also no deep dive in acc or workmanship seems the acces is cut down compared to the past not even the team is aloud to explain the pieces
at least JWA explains his idea and motives and its funny , or you see parts being assembled.

New era lux openness but behind closed doors lol mystery but friendly just not invited backstage the Blazy lazy gang will love it they will say it brings more mystery to the confusion lol

Its not smart as clips of this could have been ways for Chanel /Blazy to drive more the deep narrative on social media without basic guest comments but i think that's what they want now not speak much just do/survive stay on the surface to not invite bad comments.

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

I was thinking Chanel might be doing their own documentary, and saving MB talking and displaying his vision there.

This video also stood out for me by the relatively long interviews with mature US actresses/comedians Carrie Coon, Maya Rudolph and Julia Louis-Dreyfus. Really established names I never thought would be courted by Chanel. (Because they are more evergreen talent than the next big thing.)

 

[PDFSD]

I was thinking Chanel might be doing their own documentary, and saving MB talking and displaying his vision there.

This video also stood out for me by the relatively long interviews with mature US actresses/comedians Carrie Coon, Maya Rudolph and Julia Louis-Dreyfus. Really established names I never thought would be courted by Chanel. (Because they are more evergreen talent than the next big thing.)

Chanel always had a big mix of names... big and small constantly this is really not new its a machine to feed every season with a mix of guests.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I agree i call it gallerist lady syndrome this phoebe era the final years of her at celine,for me even the phoebe version became a cindy sherman pun/cliche archetype for me.

Nonetheless i don't subscribe to idea that because you worked with her like (Blazy, Lee, Rider) therefore you continue to emulate her like you own stock/shares in her design code ...you should have in you a deep urge to do your own thing like a pillati his stuff never looked cleary Prada esk sure colors sens the share quality etc but its not a copy of or even michele at gucci post frida.

Its like Demna short moment at margiela and hijacks the whole concept like some self adopted crown prince to Margiela´s stylistic codes or concepts.

to me these are pinterest designers they take shortcuts to thing that already are loved and pretend its a new take , while its just fan behavior bordering on single white female territory (as mentioned recently before phoebe herself is not happy with the flattery as i know from her circle, unlike coco chanel that wanted to be copied so people would take on her not popular style at the beginning )

Point taken - The only thing that confuses me to this day is how Phoebe's Celine started out on such a pragmatic, sharply tailored note, to develop into the thing we associate her with until this day - The more slouchy volumes, extra-long sleeves and trousers and big shoulders.

The abrupt change got me wondering if something in her approach changed - Or how much a design director (Which I believe, was Nadège Cybulski during the early years) played a part.

 

[PDFSD]

Point taken - The only thing that confuses me to this day is how Phoebe's Celine started out on such a pragmatic, sharply tailored note, to develop into the thing we associate her with until this day - The more slouchy volumes, extra-long sleeves and trousers and big shoulders.

The abrupt change got me wondering if something in her approach changed - Or how much a design director (Which I believe, was Nadège Cybulski during the early years) played a part.

i prefer her early celine is so sharp and chic at times a bit stiff the leather inserts etc so this did not age well when you used some items but over all iconic level of chic and clear voice.

i think she slowly went into experimentations back to her SCM year above all and for sure team members that bring ideas or insertions has influence to a direction with time but even her CSM had touches of what she is doing now and tailoring with panels deconstructed light shapes open cuts graphic

Celine | Spring Summer 2012 show i remember philo mom saying to tim blanks this is really her /philo what she always loved to do even at her SCM year these cuts and shapes sticking out etc .​

till now she is this

 

[Grets]

Also no deep dive in acc or workmanship seems the acces is cut down compared to the past not even the team is aloud to explain the pieces
at least JWA explains his idea and motives and its funny , or you see parts being assembled.

New era lux openness but behind closed doors lol mystery but friendly just not invited backstage the Blazy lazy gang will love it they will say it brings more mystery to the confusion lol

When bLazy started, immediately, the first move they made was showcase the behind-the-scenes of their 10K machine made bags. And the internet went crazy because it was a reminder Chanel charges 10k for these factory bags.

It's also quite extreme how opposite bLazy and Karl are.

 

[Nimsay]

Senjana nailed it: not modern but old-world values, turn-of-the-century energy. Modern was Karl’s word - in the Mies-van-der-Rohe sense - that shaped his Chanel. Logically, what follows Karl is the next art movement of our time. Le Smoking is fifty years old; it had a magnificent run. Now we move past Mies tubular steel and Chanel shoulder pads - keep the cream, retire what isnt timeless.

 

[Nimsay]

Look at all that power dressing from Phoebe. Even mens fabrics. Again. I see why they didnt go with more sculpted shoulders and mens dupe materials. We just had that with Karl - a Couture Master - and Virginie who was just doing the omnipresent look of the times.