Men's Denim | Page 6 | the Fashion Spot

Men's Denim

AFAIK in a nutshell
Selvage jeans > non-selvage jeans :flower:

I'm sure someone else can expand on that ;)
 
nqth said:
Could someone please tell me what is "selvage":-) Thanks.

Here is a description Kit posted earlier!!!

"Evisu has spent the last 10 years developing their jeans to be as authentic as today's vintage jeans can be. All Evisu jeans are made of vintage selvedge denim. This means that the denim is made on old style shuttle looms rather than modern projectile looms. In simple terms this means that the cross thread in the weaving process goes back and forth during the weaving process. But modern looms, shoot each cross thread through individually, hence the edge of the cloth is frayed rather than clean (although brands who are only interested in making quick money, try to cash in by faking the smooth selvedge by stitching up the frayed edge afterwards). No shuttle looms have be made for over 40 years as they can only make cloth about 30 inches wide whereas projectile looms can make fabric 60 inches or even wider for much less money. All the looms that make Evisu denim are practically antiques and about as reliable as a 50 year old car. Because the fabric made on these looms is so narrow we need approximately 3 yards to make each pair of jeans. To maximise the usage, the traditional method was to have a straight outside seam and cut right up to the selvedge so that when you turn the jean up you see the two selvedge edges of the denim stitched together. You can also see it on the inside of the coin pocket.Also, all of our denim is indigo dyed by loop dying machines. Again, these are rare and ancient machines which basically feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out and up to the roof of the factory to allow the indigo to oxidise before the 'rope' goes back down into the next vat. Evisu denim has a minimum of 16 dips and some styles have 30 dips, hence the deep blue colour.We use 100cotton threads which are more authentic but break more easily during the sewing process. We reproduce the original production techniques at every stage. This means using a large number of specialist sewing machines which have not been produced for many years. For example, we chain stitch the hem which gives the thick stitch line visible around the hem when you turn the jean up. This requires a special machine which again has not been produced for 40 years. Wherever possible we try to use Union Special machines which were the Rolls Royce of sewing machines in the US in the fifties. Many of our styles then have the logo hand painted on.As a result of all this and a host of other details relating to every raw material and process our jeans cost many times the price of normal jeans to produce. From what I understand other jeans companies make much larger profit margins than we do.All this obviously leads to the next question: why do we bother? In simple terms it is the result of the Japanese fascination with details and because everybody associated with Evisu from Mr. Yamane (the Japanese owner of Evisu) down are denim 'maniacs'. This is Yamane's term by which he means something like having obsessive, almost trainspottery love for denim. Denim produced on shuttle looms is naturally irregular and these irregularities come out as the jeans fade, making every pair develop into a unique and beautiful pattern as it fades. The deep blue colour and the way the jeans fade can only be achieved by using the loop dying system and all the other details give the jeans a combination of authenticity and the knowledge that you have something that is a labour of love that no other jeans or probably any other item of clothing, in the world can give you.We understand that for many people these things are not important but for those who appreciate this level of craftsmanship, we believe Evisu jeans are worth every penny."
 
Thanks Faust and Kit so much for the info:-)

I am pretty surprised that it's Evisu "re-lauched" the vintage, selvedge denim. I always thought that vintage must have the "old look", while Evisu that I saw didn't, hehe.
 
nqth said:
Thanks Faust and Kit so much for the info:-)

I am pretty surprised that it's Evisu "re-lauched" the vintage, selvedge denim. I always thought that vintage must have the "old look", while Evisu that I saw didn't, hehe.

You are welcome.

BTW, I saw some of the famoust Evisu $600 jeans in a discount store here for 1/3rd of the price. There were all in absurdly large sizes though (there was 1 in 33" waist, but still too big for me). It's amazing what kind of stuff you can find in NYC's discount stores.
 
Wow, I thought Evisu was like another Diesel, since they sell it at Urban Outfitters. Thx, Faust, for posting
 
Arturo21 said:
Wow, I thought Evisu was like another Diesel, since they sell it at Urban Outfitters. Thx, Faust, for posting

I have several friends that run a couple of Urbans here in the bay area, evisu is probably the worst selling denim they have. Most likely because of the price. They stocked them a while back but then stopped when it didn't sell. Then the explosion of popularity due to the rappers wearing them made them restock. They're still not selling well and have lowered their inventory, and most of the jeans are now only sold online.

I have a pair when they were still called Evis, I love them, but I find the newer ones are a bit too big for my taste. I hear if you want to get smaller, more fitted ones you have to buy ones from Japan (which make sense) but I sorta feel the label itself has lost some of its appeal since there are 252508 people wearing fake ones nowadays.

I used to think they were overpriced (which I do a bit still) but understanding the process from the above post I can see why they charge what they do.
 
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I have a pair of Evisu Bondage jeans, never wear them. Not comfortable at all...

Although, The new Vintage range they're currently doing, like the heavy washed out look, with oil stains etc...

They are comfy, but as with all Evisu jeans, they are always really tight at the bottom on the hem...

They go great with sandals though :)

However, I have about 20 odd pair of pristene white classic trainers, usually k-swiss or adidas, get the odd pair out, like Yohji Jamamoto Y-3's, butr anyway...

Evisu jeans do not fit well with big trainers...well not in my opinion.
 
My Dior "sparkle" jeans came today, and they're so wonderful! Highly recommended, even for the stupid price!!! And made in Japan, not Italy.
 
You could try the Dolce& Gabbana store on Sloane ST, thats if they are for the currenct collection i dont remember seeing them in the catalouge also try there website i brought a pair quite simmular to them and they are still availble.
 
Arturo21 said:
Wow, I thought Evisu was like another Diesel, since they sell it at Urban Outfitters. Thx, Faust, for posting

You are welcome, Arturo.
 
Arturo makes the point I've been meaning to add for ages.

I read that Evisu thing from their site ages ago and wondered - are the Evisu products you see in shops/on rappers the same as the Evisu the Japanese are talking about?
 
They are the same, but I believe there are a range that are more showy (paint splatters and the like).
 
empaulio said:
You could try the Dolce& Gabbana store on Sloane ST, thats if they are for the currenct collection i dont remember seeing them in the catalouge also try there website i brought a pair quite simmular to them and they are still availble.

Who's website?

the official D&G site?
 
baklanyc said:
Nope, was serious. :) For what it is (And sex sells, and they sell it well, in that overt, bordering-on-cheesy-but-not-quite way ;)), it's well done, and it gets the job done. I don't necessarily want the jeans, but it told me enough and showed me enough and told me exactly where I can get the jeans, and it made me think about trying their product. I'd rather see a brand/site try for a more mass appeal and succeed than attempt a higher road yet fall short. But that's me. :flower:

GREAT SITE!! something different and sexy as hell! Loved it!:woot:
 
evisu used to make quality jeans. now, the quality has declined greatly... and now rappers where them. stay away. unless of course you can get a hold of vintage evisus.... but the logo still associates you with all the people that wear them now.
 
xcoldricex said:
hey chadr, where'd you get your jp da'mage jeans.. i does ubiq carry them?

No, actually I got them at Nordstroms in Utah (I went to school there), and I don't think Ubiq carries them (they do have PRPS, Loomstate, Rogan, Levis Repo, some Marc Jacobs, and other expensive brands). I haven't seen anywhere else selling JP Da'mage in real life (they'd be about 185), but www.workmens.com has them for 129, which is a great great great deal.
 

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